I have had my 27ft TT out 3 times and can not get the "wiggles" out of it after I have leveled it. Here's what I have been doing. I use a 3 ft level on a four ft 2x6 to get an idea of horizonal/width pitch of the site I have chosen. I keep the super slide in (???). I put down the appropiate number of leggos on the low side under both tires and back onto them. I block the opposite side tires, undo the trailer from the hitch and level the trailer back to front. I then put the slide out and put down the stablizer jacks. Our trailer wiggles constantly and is reaaly annoying. You can see the blinds wiggle as you walk as well as water in a bottle on the table or cabinets. I thinking it could be due to leaving the slide in during leveling as it has a lot of wieght hanging over the frame, therefore I should put it out before leveling. I would appreciate suggestions. Thanks, Tuna.

We currently have a 25ft TT w/slide. When we get backed in to our spot, I put the chocks under trailer wheels. Plug in, extend slide. Raise jack with wood blocks underneath, and get the weight off the hitch. Then, we use 2 pieces of 2X6 wood blocks under the scissor jacks-level it up. Pull TV out. We're pretty stabile with this system.

Buy a pair of RotoChoks. They aren't cheap but are well worth the cost.

Wedges are only effective is used correctly. Just dropping some by a wheel and nudging them with your toe does nothing to help. To properly set a wedge you place it in front of a tire, pull forward ONTO the wedge, then set the secont wedge behind the tire. Now let the trailer find it's own center. When used that way they are FAIRLY effective but chances are most of your problems are not associated with chocking the wheels.Trailers generally have light weight frames and these frames flex, especially with longer trailers. When you put stab jacks down at the corners it actually makes the problem worse as when the corners are lifted the center, around the axles sags even more. When you walk around inside the frame flexes and bounces on the trailers own suspension. Adding a third set of stab jacks, mounted to the FRAME (not the suspension) can remove most of the wiggle caused by suspension bounce. Also you might experiment with putting different amounts of lift on the corner stab jacks until you find the "sweet spot" for your trailer.Good luck / Skip

We use the jack stands used under Mobile Homes. I have a set of four, they are adjustable. I level side to side using blocks under the tires. Put on the RotoChoks. Unhitch, lower the front of the TT and place the two rear jackstands under the frame. Raise the front of the TT to a little past level and place the two front jackstands under the frame. Lower the trailer onto the jackstands and we are solid. The jack stands are strong enough to support the entire weight of our TT. I got them at an independent RV supply shop.

leveling trailer | Good Sam Community

wbwood
Explorer
Jun 25, 2013
mike.t wrote:
What about stabilizers on the slide out.
Plus what are we referring to when we say "wobble"

Check with your manufacturer. Some recommend not doing it.
Veebyes
Explorer II
Jun 25, 2013
Ummmm, it is a TRAILER. It has wheels which are attached to springs which are attached the frame & the whole thing goes down a road at terrific speed. It is not a house. Short of jacking the whole thing up & transferring the weight directly to the frame, get used to the jiggle. Complaining about a trailer jiggling is like a boater complaining about a boat rocking when at anchor or tied to a dock.

Put the stabilizers down & be happy with the best that can be done.
mike_t
Explorer
Jun 25, 2013
What about stabilizers on the slide out.
Plus what are we referring to when we say "wobble"
relaxin
Explorer
Jun 22, 2013
pour footings and then call in a couple block layers and put a foundation down then get a crane and lift the TT onto the foundation
that'll maker solid

aside from that keep your blocking solid your jacks short, take up about an inch off the suspension, puts some pressure on the stablizers and they will do their job, if the are only just touching the boards they just stop bouncing not wobble

I personally use a couple 6x4 blocks with some peices of 4x4 all about 12 inches long, cross stacked either 2 or 3 high (depending on the terrain)
mike_t
Explorer
Jun 21, 2013
Mortimer Brewster wrote:
Buy a pair of RotoChoks. They aren't cheap but are well worth the cost.

I think I have learned something.You can also get
"wiggle" front to back?And RotoChoks prevent this.
boatms03
Explorer
Jun 20, 2013
you need to place some blocks under your stabilizer jacks. the farther you have to extend them the less effective they are. I think the most effective height of the jacks are around 12"-16". I have 4-6"x6"x1' wooden blockd I use for my scissor jacks to keep from over extending them and letting the trailer "wiggle"
john_bet
Explorer II
Jun 16, 2013
When we had a tt and with our current 5er the first thing I did was to level the rig at home and install small bubble levels on the front left corner of the rig. I use these to estimate the amount of boards or what ever to put under the low side. I plug in, unhitch, level front to rear, put all stabilizers down then put slides out. Yes I have a little wiggle, but it does not bother us. If it is to much I check the stabilizer tightness and the chock tightness. Sometimes I find them loser than when first set up. I don't us Roto-chocks or king pin stabilizer.
eabc5454
Explorer
Jun 15, 2013
We just moved up from TT to MH. Wiggle in the TT was our biggest complaint. Even with meticulous leveling, we still wiggled. Our Dalmatian starts pacing when he needs to go out (4am) or when he's hungry (6am). We would be rocking and rolling trying to sleep. We finally bought BAL chocks, which were amazing. We had a TT with wide-set wheels, and the BAL chocks stopped 95% of the wiggle. Highly recommend chocks between the wheels.

Happy camping,
Elizabeth
Sandia_Man
Explorer II
Jun 15, 2013
We had a lot of wiggle as well until we got a pair of BAL between the wheel chocks from Camping World. We first pull or back into our site, drop the level in front of fridge, determine which side needs to be lifted using wood planks, drive onto wood planks, set both BAL chocks between the wheels and unhitch. Raise/lower powered tongue jack until level, implement BAL scissor and stab jacks located on the corners of our rig unto a stack of lego style levelers so jacks don't have to extend too far. We have this routine down to a science and takes but a few minutes to complete delivering a solid and stable feel with little movement noted when moving about in our 32' TT.
TXcampingfamily
Explorer
Jun 15, 2013
Mortimer Brewster wrote:
Buy a pair of RotoChoks. They aren't cheap but are well worth the cost.

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