New TT - have some questions

[chezmoose]

We're finally de-winterizing our new Eco Camp 19WQ today and planning to spend the night at Camp Driveway to get all systems figured out.

Have a couple questions...

Regarding the water heater (Suburban SW6DEL)...
When we go to light it, which switches need to be on for LP use? I'm assuming the one on the control panel, but there's also a switch on the breaker box and one on the heater itself. The ones on the breaker box and the heater are both taped in the "off" position. Are they for electric use only?

Also:
Where the line from the water tank attaches to the water pump, there's a clear tube attached with a valve that's currently in the off position. Can't find any mention of that and what it's supposed to do in the owners manual. Some sort of drain or pressure release? Should this remain off?

[chezmoose]

K Charles wrote:
The switch in the breaker box is not a switch it's a breaker. Everything that runs on AC has a breaker in that box, it's like a fuse that you can use over. Now there are only 2 switches, one on the heater for AC and one inside on the panel for LP.

And one on the panel with a lightening bolt... 🙂

[K_Charles]

The switch in the breaker box is not a switch it's a breaker. Everything that runs on AC has a breaker in that box, it's like a fuse that you can use over. Now there are only 2 switches, one on the heater for AC and one inside on the panel for LP.

[chezmoose]

Bumpyroad wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

It's OK to read directions/instructions

I think chezmoose is a woman so probably reading directions is not off limits.
bumpy

Haha! You are correct on both counts, Bumpy! :B

OB, thank you for the link and I will print it out and read it. I promise!

I think I've had my question answered, all I need is the switch with the flame to run the water heater in LP mode. I really did try to read the manual that came with the water heater but it just didn't make sense.

I'm still confused why there are so many switches (3) for the electric though! Is that just so you don't do something stupid and turn it on without water in it?

[Bumpyroad]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

It's OK to read directions/instructions

I think chezmoose is a woman so probably reading directions is not off limits.
bumpy

[Old-Biscuit]

chezmoose wrote:
Thank you all for the replies. Yes, I understand about having water in the tank before trying the electric element. And it's good to know that we can run both systems concurrently.

Most of our camping is dry camping so we'll mainly be using just the LP. From what I think I understand, we just turn on the gas switch first on the control panel and then the electric switch on the control panel for the electronic ignition. Does that sound correct?

NO......

Two separate controls
One for EACH heating source

Switch on panel is for 'gas' operation
If you have propane valved in that switch ON is ALL you need to operate the gas heating.
12V DC provides the source of power for the circuit board, the gas valve and for the electronic ignitor

Read the guide I leaked in previous post for real GOOD information.
It's OK to read directions/instructions

[chezmoose]

Thank you all for the replies. Yes, I understand about having water in the tank before trying the electric element. And it's good to know that we can run both systems concurrently.

Most of our camping is dry camping so we'll mainly be using just the LP. From what I think I understand, we just turn on the gas switch first on the control panel and then the electric switch on the control panel for the electronic ignition. Does that sound correct?

[Old-Biscuit]

Two separate methods of heating.....120V AC electric element and Propane
Two separate switches to turn on each one.

120V AC circuit breaker and switch on water heater are for electric element

Switch inside on panel......propane

The Circuit Breaker and outside switch off with tape over them....that is go they didn't get turned on without water in WH tank. Element burns out quickly when not submerged in water.

One at a time or both for heating water....your choice. Fastest recovery is with both on. Electric is a 1400W element....also has it's own set of 120V AC t-stats

Propane is 12,000 btu burner and has it's own set of 12V DC t-stats.


The clear tube as mentioned is for winterizing...sucking anti-freeze out of bottle and pumping thru system with rv on-board pump.


Common language Suburban WH Guide.......great info with pictures LINK


Have fun with your camper!

[diazr2]

Make sure your water heater is full before firing it up. If you light it while empty you will surly ruin something. Not sure how yours is hooked up but mine only needs one breaker the one that runs the electric igniter to run on Lp. The other one is for the electric element in your water heater. On my rig that is controlled at the water heater itself. Some are controlled from inside the RV. Just depends on what model you have. hope this helps. Remember you MUST have water in the water heater before you start it.

[bob213]

For LP operation only, you can leave those switches off. Or you can use those switches for electric only operation and save your LP. You can run LP and electric at the same time for faster recovery. DO NOT turn those switches on without water in the heater tank! The electric element will fry itself in seconds if it is not surrounded by water.
For electric use, I leave my breaker on all the time and use the switch on the water heater to turn on and off. I don't like to cycle my breaker if I don't have to. That's just me, others will disagree.

[chezmoose]

Ah... that clear hose makes much more sense now!

But regarding the water heater, do you think all 3 switches need to be on to operate on LP? Or is it just a matter of trying it and seeing what works? Just don't want to break anything yet... 😉

[calamus]

Bumpyroad wrote:
I would guess that the clear pipe is a winterizing antifreeze input point. and I would assume the switches are taped so you don't accidentally turn the heater on with an empty tank.
bumpy

X2 right on!

[ChooChooMan74]

1st. Thr breaker is for the electric part of the water heater. You have the option of running it on gas and/or electric. Some heaters have both switches remote. Others, like mine, have the gas remote, but electric on the water heater. I did a mod (link in the blog) to change that.

2) that hose sounds like the winterizing hose. You suck the antifreeze with that hose.

[Bumpyroad]

I would guess that the clear pipe is a winterizing antifreeze input point. and I would assume the switches are taped so you don't accidentally turn the heater on with an empty tank.
bumpy