Pressure regulator for "City Water" Hookup

I have read a few posts over the years of some seeing CG pressure as high as 200 psi. I installed a "telltale" gauge which records max pressure and has been as high as 120 psi at some unknown CG. You just never know what a CG is going to deliver for their system pressure. If in a large CG they could turn it up high so that sites at the far end of long runs get adequate pressure. ALWAYS use a regulator - period. The last thing you want in an RV is a plumbing leak.

I don't know where some get that RVs can only handle pressure of around 45-55 psi. RVs are supposed to be capable of withstanding, and are supposed to be tested for, 100 psi or more. RVIA says max 80 psi. NFPA 1192 which covers RVs says 100 psi, or it might be 110 psi. Can't recall exactly and can't find a free version of 1192 at the moment. In Canada, plumbing systems have to comply with CSA Z240. When I spoke to RVwaterfilterstore a few years ago, he recommended running at 65 psi, so that's what our regulator is set at and after 4 seasons, zero issues.

RVs have been using PEX pipe & fittings for quite a few years now and is rated for 150 or so psi (depends on temp.) just like in houses. What I don't trust tho. is the cheap plumbing fixtures in RVs and I don't trust toilet valves in particular. Low pressure can also be a problem - our toilet started to fill once by itself on under 10 psi but happened to be their at the time...

I installed a Watts adjustable regulator and telltale gauge under the kitchen counter and ran brass pipe from there to the city water inlet. If you have a regulator at your city water inlet or inside, you should be using a high pressure rated hose. We have a Valterra one good rated a 160 psi (IIRC). I also installed a gauge behind the door to the water heater where I can easily read it.

When buying a regulator, you get what you pay for. The inline ones have a tiny orifice in them and can plug up easily with silt & debris. Sometimes they last less than one season. They should be at the faucet end of the hose to protect it but are sometimes are forgotten and left behind. Also, they have low flow rates. The good ones like a Watts 263A are rebuild-able and have a much higher flow rate. A gauge somewhere is really helpful.

If you are using a filter, some can be damaged by high pressure.

It's best to have one. Never can tell when the campground water pressure is too great.

Also, I sometimes will just use the water in the fresh water tank, instead of hooking up "city water". I do it more to keep fresh water in the fresh water tank, but it will prevent excess water pressure from damaging your RV plumbing system if you don't have a good pressure gauge.

I never travel without one anymore as some campsites have a water pressure that knocks you off of your feet. ;) Just be careful as some campsites have a faucet that has a plastic stick coming out of it which can damage the mesh of the water regulator if you get one that you put between faucet and water hose.

I just fill my fresh tank and use the onboard pump.

Yes, you should always use a pressure regulator. After leaks in one with a gauge, we purchased this one and have been very pleased with it:

https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/Fixed.htm

I've Rv'ed for over 40 years and never hooked up a regulator to my hose. No damage yet. I've had them leak at the hose because it was so high but no damage. The trailer I just bought came with a regulator so I will just leave it on the hose.

Here are 3 which are good. I notice a big price range. two of them you will need to buy hose adapters to use them..

This first one is complete you need nothing more but it is the most expensive of the links.

note: SHOP AROUND Most all can be found elsewhere.

Alas the Watts RV model I linked to at Grainger did not properly link

This one too comes with hose fittings and is sold for RV use

Amazon dot com

This last one (With added hose fittings) is what I use. Now Home Depot and Lowes carry these if you want instant regulation.

When I got my last one (A Zurin identical design) since I haveing trouble inding a rebulid kit for my Watts, (They do need occasional rebuilding) the 3/4 inch was both cheaper and easier to hose adapt.

Watts at Webstaurantstore.

My city system supplies 105-110 psi to my house.. so it's quite possible for a RV site to have excessive pressure.

I was having a lot of problems with leaks in my residential plumbing. Eventually found out that the nearest water tower had been filled beyond the point where it was supposed to be (was also told it was designed too tall.) That was when the leaks started.

So if your residential system can leak from excessive pressure... your RV system definitely would.

The Sahara has one built in. This makes sense to me.

Every spring when the local campgrounds start filling up, we get a rush at the store for pressure regulators. Last spring we couldn't keep them on the shelf. The local pressure is "only" 75 psi. I have been to several parks (I think the popular Normandy Farms is one of them) where there warn you about the pressure when you check in. Of course, they have regulators on sale right there.

Dick_B wrote:
I have one in the bottom of my hose container but prefer to fill the FW tank and use the pump at all times.

This. :B

It's not often we camp where on-site water is available anyway so even those times we do have it I just draw from the tank as I always do. To avoid any possibility of a leak I wired a light into to pump circuit so anytime it comes so does the light. When we're away from the camper I try to also make it a habit to turn the pump off.