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Calicajun's avatar
Calicajun
Explorer
May 20, 2015

Water Heater Confusion

While out camping the water heater started spewing out water from the upper release pressure valve. My first thought was the valve is bad, which it was, but also wonder if the thermostat was not working and the water was just to hot.

As it turned out it was just the pressure valve. Here where the confusion starts. The water heater has three different ID markers on it all saying the heater is an Atwood heater. So I go to CW to buy a $31.00 dollar pressure valve and leave the store $140.00 later (that is another story about the wife). Go to install the new valve and it doesn't fit. Turns out my water heater take a Suburban water heater. I buy a another Suburban valve and everything now works great.

Point, always take the old part in with you before buying. :o
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Jun 02, 2015
    wa8yxm wrote:
    Oh one other question you ask I've not seen addressed

    How to tell if the T-Stat has failed and the water is too hot?

    Cup (Styrafoam preferred) and meat thermomemter

    Run water in cup and let it run
    Insert Thermometer probe

    Read indicator 120.. T-Stat working 200.. Failed (not sure what the fail temp is but some Atwoods hit 180)


    Atwood.....normal t-stat OPENS 140*F and ECO OPENS 180*F
    Suburban...normal t-stat OPENS 130*F and High OPENS 170*F

    T&P Relief Valves.....Full OPEN at 210*F/150PSI
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Jun 02, 2015
    Oh one other question you ask I've not seen addressed

    How to tell if the T-Stat has failed and the water is too hot?

    Cup (Styrafoam preferred) and meat thermomemter

    Run water in cup and let it run
    Insert Thermometer probe

    Read indicator 120.. T-Stat working 200.. Failed (not sure what the fail temp is but some Atwoods hit 180)
  • mbopp's avatar
    mbopp
    Explorer
    Jun 02, 2015
    I installed a 2-gallon residential expansion tank in the bathroom sink cabinet. In addition to cutting down on the pump cycling it doesn't allow the water pressure to build up and cause the WH valve to drip. I find after a week or so the water bubble disappears and I used to get weeping, no so now.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Jun 02, 2015
    Calicajun wrote:
    There are three paper tags showing the brand name Atwood in water heater compartment. I would post pictures but have limited internet access here at Thousand Trail Yosmite, lucky to be able to post.

    Good tip on putting an air pocket in the heater before use.


    If it is labeled as an Atwood...pretty good chance it IS an Atwood.

    Like I stated in earlier post.......Atwood or Suburban (or residential water heater at home) use the same T&P Relief Valves.

    But Atwood and Suburban used 1/2" thread or 3/4" thread (residential use 3/4" due to size of tank)

    Easy way to distinguish between Atwood or Suburban....
    How combustion chamber/exhaust is laid out.

    Suburban.....bottom to top directly over each other on right side of WH


    Atwood....crossways bottom right to top left


    Air pocket is by design.....normal filling of WH Tank should establish air pocket

  • Calicajun's avatar
    Calicajun
    Explorer
    Jun 02, 2015
    rrupert wrote:
    Calicajun wrote:
    Good tip on putting an air pocket in the heater before use.


    You will probably find that instruction in the WH manual.


    I wrote instructions for 28 years, so I tend to have a problem reading instructions. :o
  • rrupert's avatar
    rrupert
    Explorer
    Jun 01, 2015
    Calicajun wrote:
    Good tip on putting an air pocket in the heater before use.


    You will probably find that instruction in the WH manual.
  • Calicajun's avatar
    Calicajun
    Explorer
    May 24, 2015
    There are three paper tags showing the brand name Atwood in water heater compartment. I would post pictures but have limited internet access here at Thousand Trail Yosmite, lucky to be able to post.

    Good tip on putting an air pocket in the heater before use.
  • GoPackGo's avatar
    GoPackGo
    Explorer
    May 23, 2015
    I've done boats, bikes, RVs, cars and trucks. It's really quite simple. The bigger the prospective audience, the cheaper the cost.

    Go into a Home Depot and pay less (or Amazon). Go into a Camping World, Kawasaki dealer, or West Marine and pay more.

    I will not try to defend the pricing I find at West or CW, but I am happy when I need something RIGHT NOW and they have it on the shelf. I don't think we want to force them out of business.

    You can use the same analogy of what happens when a Super Walmart comes to town and their impact on grocery stores, hardware stores, tire stores, etc.

    Tim
  • dwayneb236's avatar
    dwayneb236
    Explorer
    May 20, 2015
    bukhrn wrote:
    midnightsadie wrote:
    CW ripped off another camper. you can buy the valve at any store for about $15.bucks . CW must dip theres in gold plating.
    It's not just CW, same thing applies to boats, atv's or many other things, as soon as you say a part is specifically for an RV, Boat, etc. the price doubles, years ago, I went to buy a new horn for my boat, found the exact one I needed at an auto parts store for exactly half of what it was at the boat dealer.
    I had my ATV at the dealer for some work, so while it was there I had them change the plugs, when I picked it up, learned it was over $5 a plug. Shortly after, I found the exact same plug at NAPA for slightly over $2.


    Don't get me started on motorcycle parts.. Sheeeesh.

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