What is the purpose of low point drains?

They are for draining the water out of the system at that low point. You'll still need to close them after draining and either blow the lines out with air or winterize with RV anti-freeze. I prefer the anti-freeze method. Your choice though depending on how much risk you're willing to take.

If all the plumbing was sloped towards the low point with absolutely no sags, then maybe it would work. But RV's are built any which way and you can't count on draining properly.

Lynnmor wrote:
If all the plumbing was sloped towards the low point with absolutely no sags, then maybe it would work. But RV's are built any which way and you can't count on draining properly.

That is what I was thinking, so I was wondering what is the point of having them there in the first place.

If you open all spigots/taps before opening the low point drains, you should get most of the water out as it will act like a siphon. Once that is done close the low points and spigots/taps. Add antifreeze to the lines running it through every line and tap.

JoshuaH wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
If all the plumbing was sloped towards the low point with absolutely no sags, then maybe it would work. But RV's are built any which way and you can't count on draining properly.

That is what I was thinking, so I was wondering what is the point of having them there in the first place.

Because W/O the Low Point Drains HOW would you get the water out of the Hot/Cold water lines???

Open the Low point Drains.....then with an adapter connected to City water inlet you can BLOW air thru the Lines and remove majority of water in the system
Course there is the issue of the water pump.

RV Anti-freeze pumped thru the Cold & Hot Systems (out faucets/showers/toilet AND Low Point drains you get rid of the water and protect with anti-freeze

W/O Low Point Drains that would be hard to accomplish.

Course...one doesn't have to use them

When I had my trailer I didn’t even drain the lines. I ran antifreeze through the system until it all came out pink. Never had an issue. If I’m not feeling lazy then I’ll pull the low points and drain, otherwise I just run the pink through it.

JoshuaH wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
If all the plumbing was sloped towards the low point with absolutely no sags, then maybe it would work. But RV's are built any which way and you can't count on draining properly.

That is what I was thinking, so I was wondering what is the point of having them there in the first place.

Otherwise you'll be carrying a dead load of water every time, duh!:B;):S

dodge guy wrote:
When I had my trailer I didn’t even drain the lines. I ran water through the system until it all came out pink. Never had an issue. If I’m not feeling lazy then I’ll pull the low points and drain, otherwise I just run the pink through it.

If your low point drains are valves above the floor line you can get away with this. If they are caps below the trailer, do yourself a favor and drain them. If you don't there is a good chance you will have nothing but water in the lines hanging down. No antifreeze. When those caps freeze and crack you will have a problem next year.

Seriously this time, I would suggest you run the pump while all faucets are turned on or open to drain all water in the lines. Then open the low point drains.

Do these again after you've loaded the 4 to 6 gallons of RVC fresh water anti-freeze.

Others suggested blowing air to purge all water inside. I just installed a water accumulator and indeed there are bent pipes where water can accumulate, freeze and crack.

Lynnmor wrote:
If all the plumbing was sloped towards the low point with absolutely no sags, then maybe it would work. But RV's are built any which way and you can't count on draining properly.

That is why we we install antifreeze