What's a must coverage to have on rv

greenskeeper wrote:
I purchased an extended warrantee on my 2001 ford f 350 , talked them down from $3600.00 4 years to $2100.00 sure glad I did, more than paid for itself in 3 years, I can't work on the new stuff, so did the same on my 2014 Silverado, 4 years and unlimited milage , they started at $3500, we ended up at $2100.00 for full coverage....they have worked good for us........but not every one....

yep, when I am in the waiting area as my vehicle is being fixed under warranty, I have to sort of giggle when the mechanic comes out and starts talking to the person beside me, saying "the muffler bearings are totally shot and it will cost you $2400 to fix."
bumpy

I purchased an extended warrantee on my 2001 ford f 350 , talked them down from $3600.00 4 years to $2100.00 sure glad I did, more than paid for itself in 3 years, I can't work on the new stuff, so did the same on my 2014 Silverado, 4 years and unlimited milage , they started at $3500, we ended up at $2100.00 for full coverage....they have worked good for us........but not every one....

Turn down any warranty and put a few $$ aside each month for any repairs.
TTs are not rocket science - they are pretty easy too repair. Learn to do stuff
yourself and you will be ahead of the game.

In 26? years of owning an RV, I've never had any major appliance fail. Stuff does break/wear out but most of it is simple to repair. I just needed to replace my water pump - $43 on Amazon and literally 10 minutes with a screw-driver.

If you take care of TT and get on top of things - then you should be okay.

downtheroad wrote:
There has been a lot of discussion and opinions on this topic....

My take is to turn down ALL of the add-ons....extended warranty, tire band-aids, upholstery protection, paint protection, All of them.

Lots of exclusions, lots of fine print, lots of very strict requirements, and lots of money out of your pocket and into the dealer's pocket...

X2 I totally agree

I would get as much Extended Coverage as possible for any Thor product as their quality ain't the best.

mgirardo wrote:
I agree with downtheroad, don't buy any extended warranties, coatings, protectants, etc. Put the money you would spend on "extras" aside and use that for repairs as needed.


-Michael

by "put the money aside" do you mean put that $2,000 (or whatever) in a separate account or what? would it be better to pay that $2,000 extra down payment? since that extended warranty will increase your payment $10 a month ??? if you stash that aside in 4 years you will have amassed $480 which will not help much if the engine blows up.
bumpy

LOL, wtf is a tire band? I actually had to look that one up. It''s like an interior bead lock.
Nice try on their part.....
You can but the best tires in the world for your steer axle for about 1/4 the cost.

Have fun with the new rig!

Agree with the above stuff. Just say no unless having one will help you sleep better at night as that’s all it will be good for in most cases. Get them to put in writing that all systems have been cleaned/serviced and are operating to manufacturer’s spec. Inspect the roof of that 8 yo unit for signs of caulking failures or the need to reseal the roof.

From past experience, check the date codes on those new tires. The 2000 Hurricane I bought had “new” tires but had 2-3 yo date codes.

I would have to disagree on extended warranty, but agree to turn it down when new. We purchased our extended warranty 2 years ago for our 2011 FW. We were able to select what we wanted covered and we selected the most expensive to replace components with a mid range deductible. Our RV tech says it's a comparable policy and we'll appreciate having it when our fridge needs replaced.

Get whatever you can for FREE

When the 'finance guy' suggests something just say "SURE....as long as the out the door price doesn't change."

And anything they tell you 'GET it in WRITING'----no oral contracts/promises.