25' 30 amp extension cord

[garmp]

I did a quick search on this forum and didn't find the answer so I hope someone out there can help as I am not an electrician. What is the difference between all the 25' 30 amp extension cords out there? The prices seem to range any where from $30 to over $100. All are 10 gauge wire. What else is there I should be aware of and look for?
Not really fond of using an extension cord to start with, but lately we have found some state parks, especially in Kentucky, with the power poles spaced between campsites and farther than my regular 25' power cord.
thanks

[Chum_lee]

To my knowledge, at least in this country, (USA) both Underwriters Laboratories (UL) and the National Electrical Code (NEC) require that the number of conductors, the gauge, the material, and the insulation type be permanently marked on any electrical conductor sold here for public use in/with structures fed by public utilities. AFAIK, the same is true for attached permanent connectors. That doesn't mean that there won't be counterfeit materials that find a way here. Using reputable sources for your electrical supply needs should alleviate most potential problems because of the potential liability. It's clearly not worth it for deep pocket corporations to get caught cheating just to save/make a buck.

It just amazes me what competent professional fire investigators can figure out in the aftermath of a deadly fire.

Chum lee

[Cummins12V98]

pianotuna wrote:
I find the yellow Cameco male ends to be ok. The female ones are POOR and burn even on a 15 amp shore power connection.

Never had an issue with the female ends.

[pianotuna]

I find the yellow Cameco male ends to be ok. The female ones are POOR and burn even on a 15 amp shore power connection.

[bukhrn]

Back in 2011 I needed an extension cord and didn't have one, had to turn around & drive into the site, which put everything on the wrong side, so before next trip I went to WalMart and bought a 25 footer, comparatively cheap, under $30 IIRC, unlike Sound Guy i have never needed it at a CG again, only places it gets used is at my nieces & my place.

[Cummins12V98]

Spend the $$$ and make your own using "SO" cord and the yellow Camco or better ends.

Highly suggest making a 50A because your next RV will be a 50A.

[PatJ]

The unfortunate thing is you can't easily tell the quality of something by looking anymore, even by price. Also brand names have much less meaning these days as almost all are licensed to Chinese manufacturers. Brand X part number Y could be manufactured by one plant on one day of decent quality, and the next lot comes from a different manufacturer and is complete ****. There are examples of this everywhere. There is also documented evidence of Amazon and Wal-Mart etc positive and negative reviews being bought and sold by overseas mass-review-writing firms. The "UL listed" hologram tag is easily counterfeited and there is documented evidence that counterfeit "UL Listed" items are sold by nationally known retailers every day. So everything is a crapshoot.

Most users of this site, myself included, would pay more for a quality piece. The problem is, where do you get a quality piece? (True for almost every consumer good these days.) The $50 cord could very easily be just as good the $100 one, or even better.

In my opinion the options are 1) Buy bulk good quality #10 SOOW-A (or similar SO cord) and brand name connectors from a local electrical supply house where you can be sure you are not getting counterfeit and spend $100-150 building a cord that is flexible in all temps and you can pass on to your grand kids or 2) as was already said buy the cheap one and enjoy it, repair/replace as needed.

[Boomerweps]

ksg5000 wrote:
If it were me I would buy a 50' 10 gauge 3 wire extension cord over a 25 footer - cost a bit more but I think it's more versatile and an extension cord that is too short is worthless.

Another option is to buy the longer extension cable and cut it into more desired lengths like cutting a 50' into a 15' & 35' and just add the needed ends.
I bought a 25' 30 amp extension. But I have multiple lengths of 12AWG, water hose and sewer hose. For those I just use what is required.

[ksg5000]

If it were me I would buy a 50' 10 gauge 3 wire extension cord over a 25 footer - cost a bit more but I think it's more versatile and an extension cord that is too short is worthless.

[wa8yxm]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Once difference is whether the wire is flexible in cold weather. Another is Ultra Violet protection for the rubber sheath.

Flexible in cold weather is nice.

I had cords created for various lengths.

I have a 30' extension cord that due to normal melting of the outlet and the plug on the 1' adapter cord is now a 30' shore cord for my 50 amp RV. IT's a "Super flex" and even if it's cold enough to freeze yoru....... what you don't want frozen. it rolls up like it was made of string.

Now my 50 amp cord. even in AUGUST I have to wrestle with it.

[CA_Traveler]

DrewE wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:

Wire quality can be a concern. Copper coated aluminum for example.

Lower voltage can be a concern depending upon load, wire quality and pedestal voltage.

I don't think I've ever seen an AC extension cord with CCA wire. Jumper cables, for sure, but not extension cords. Anything UL approved would have the claimed gauge of wire used, though there may be differences in the quality of the jacketing or other construction details.

Voltage drop, assuming there is no fault such as a bad connection to the plug or socket, is a simple matter of the wire gauge, length, and current flowing through it. Of course with poor voltage at the pedestal one can reasonably tolerate much less voltage drop in the extension cord.

The main differences I see in prices/quality are in the connectors, somewhat less in the cable construction, and in the seller's or maker's markup/profit margin.

Good information but I certainly didn't assume an extension cord bought on the internet is US anything approved let alone UL, but I was wrong once before in my life. 😞

Next time I'm in Wally I bring my microscope and see what the fine print says...:B

[time2roll]

I wish Hubbell would make 30-TT connectors.

[Chum_lee]

I agree, the quality/durability of extension cords is usually in the insulation, the connectors, and the wire stranding. (flexibility) I like Hubbell connectors. They are generally industrial grade, have hundreds of options for most every application and they are replaceable should you overheat a connector due to overload or a bad receptacle on someone else's part. You can repair/fabricate your own cord of any length should you not find one to your liking. Thick quality copper cable has high scrap value and a tendency to walk off if you aren't careful.

Chum lee

[Grit_dog]

^No, but it makes for a nice story....lol.
After literally 1000s of extension cords and baloney cords, never seen CCA either.

To the OP, the difference is in the quality. Just like anything else. Buy a cheap one, it may last a long time and work well, or you may decide to spring for a better quality cord the next time.

[DrewE]

CA Traveler wrote:

Wire quality can be a concern. Copper coated aluminum for example.

Lower voltage can be a concern depending upon load, wire quality and pedestal voltage.

I don't think I've ever seen an AC extension cord with CCA wire. Jumper cables, for sure, but not extension cords. Anything UL approved would have the claimed gauge of wire used, though there may be differences in the quality of the jacketing or other construction details.

Voltage drop, assuming there is no fault such as a bad connection to the plug or socket, is a simple matter of the wire gauge, length, and current flowing through it. Of course with poor voltage at the pedestal one can reasonably tolerate much less voltage drop in the extension cord.

The main differences I see in prices/quality are in the connectors, somewhat less in the cable construction, and in the seller's or maker's markup/profit margin.