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Adjusting equalizer bars

4aSong
Explorer
Explorer
Followed all the manufacture instructions and have proper weight distribution on front and rear of tow vehicle but the equalizer bars are not parallel to the trailer frame, where the chain links attach to the frame the bars are high. Would like to drop the bars about a 1/2 โ€œ but just changing to a different link on the chains also changes the weight distribution on the tow vehicle. Currently have 4 washers installed for hitch head tilt. What do I need to do to bring the bars closer to parallel ? :?

Thx
M & N

Tundra TRD V8 4x4 w/Leer Shell
EU2000i * Prodigy * McKesh * Trek * Renogy * ENU
16 REPLIES 16

4aSong
Explorer
Explorer
My Trailer (23' from tongue to rear bumper) when level front to back the height to the top of the coupler is 21 1/2". When hitched up with WD the trailer front measures 20" and rear measures 21 1/2.

I have tried numerous set-ups and seem quite happy towing with this set-up for my TT and TV.
M & N

Tundra TRD V8 4x4 w/Leer Shell
EU2000i * Prodigy * McKesh * Trek * Renogy * ENU

MontanaCamper
Explorer
Explorer
Interesting topic on the distance of the front unloaded and loaded w/distribution on the truck. With my EQ hitch (yes the Equal-I-Zer), it looks good, the bars are parallel, the front of my truck unloaded is 40 1/8", loaded with no WD is 41 7/8", with WD front measures out at 40 7/8". I don't think thats to bad...1/8" I don't think will kill it...besides if I change a washer here or there...it jumps to 40 15/16" or 40 1/4".

Here is where I stand..Has anyone asked the question on the difference between the height on the trailer?? level mine is about 24" measured front and back. With the truck measuring like stated above, the rear of the trailer sits at 25 1/2" in the rear and the front is at 23", the front is lower like I have read how the trailer is suppose to travel. My question, is 1 1/2" to much of a difference between 30 feet of trailer.....Now that I think about it..I might be getting to picky and its not that bad, and should be happy with it.

just want other peoples opinions or even their measurements.

Sorry if I stole this thread...just seemed like a good place to ask.
'07 301BHS FOR SALE
'07 Dodge 2500 w/5.9L SOLD
'96 wife
4 dogs
2 cats
10 rc's

Been pulling a trailer for 16 years
2013 camping nights: 16
2014 camping nights: 28!! Then tranny went out........

4aSong
Explorer
Explorer
I apologize if there is a misunderstanding as I have the EZ Lift WD hitch with chain links. I also have the newer style (e2 Hitch) that uses the 'L' brackets but the brackets continue to shift on the BAL/NORCO frame so I prefer the Chain Links over the 'L' bracket style. If I am correct the set-up procedures should be the same for either style (Chain Link or 'L' Bracket).
All of my posts above are referring to the bars using Chain Links.
M & N

Tundra TRD V8 4x4 w/Leer Shell
EU2000i * Prodigy * McKesh * Trek * Renogy * ENU

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
Ron3rd, you are not the one who was confused.

I forgot which thread I was responding to. My post was edited to refer to chain links instead of L-bracket height.

Ron

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Ron Gratz wrote:
4aSong wrote:
---the best I come up with is 1/8" lower on Front Axle an 1/4" lower on Rear Axle of tow vehicle.
Mike, what happens if you keep the number of washers the same and lower the L-brackets by one hole?

Ron


I'm a bit confused here; does the OP have a genuine Equilizer hitch, which does not have chains but does have l-brackets. The OP mentioned chains, which would make his hitch more like the old EZ Lift WD hitch.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
4aSong wrote:
---the best I come up with is 1/8" lower on Front Axle an 1/4" lower on Rear Axle of tow vehicle.
Mike, what happens if you keep the number of washers the same and increase the number of chain links under tension by one?

Ron

4aSong
Explorer
Explorer
Ron,

Thank you for all the information.

I have two separate equalizer hitches and I did try various set-up configurations with each one and for the life of me I cannot come up with the FALR mentioned., the best I come up with is 1/8" lower on Front Axle an 1/4" lower on Rear Axle of tow vehicle.

Look like I have some more reading and research ahead of me.
M & N

Tundra TRD V8 4x4 w/Leer Shell
EU2000i * Prodigy * McKesh * Trek * Renogy * ENU

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
4aSong wrote:
From all the readings on weight distribution hitch setup my understanding is that the tow vehicles front axle should measure the same as or less than the unloaded (dry) height of the tow vehicle. My understanding is that it is better to be a little heavy (1/4" drop) on the front to eliminate the "float" or light steering of the front end.
Mike, my usual response to the question of restoring load to the front axle is:

Using a WDH to transfer too much load to the front axle can lead to undesirable TV oversteer. Some TV and WDH manufacturers, in the past few years, have changed their WDH adjustment recommendations.

I think the reason Ford, Chevrolet, Toyota, Equal-i-zer, and others have changed their weight distribution specifications is pretty well summed up in this Letter to Editor by Richard H Klein, P E printed in TRAILER BODY BUILDERS Magazine. The comment which specifically addresses front axle load is:

QUOTE
2. The statement โ€œtoo much tongue weight can force the truck down in the back, causing the front wheels to lift to the point where steering response and braking can be severely decreasedโ€ is not the real issue with heavy tongue weights. The real problem is that the tow vehicle's yaw stability, as measured by โ€œundersteer gradientโ€, is severely decreased. This increases the propensity of the tow vehicle to jackknife in turning maneuvers. Specifically, recent full scale testing conducted by the SAE Tow Vehicle Trailer Rating Committee (and now published in SAE J2807), determined that the use of weight distributing hitch torque should be minimized. In fact they recommend that the Front Axle Load Restoration (FALR) not exceed 100% (100% means that the front axle weight is brought back, via weight distribution, to a weight equal to its โ€œno trailerโ€ condition).
UNQUOTE

A related explanation from a representative of the company which manufactures the Equal-i-zer hitch was first posted here. It says:

QUOTE

In the past we had suggested that you should see a small drop on the front suspension. We are always trying to improve things here at Progress โ€“ our motto is โ€œSafe and Happy Customers,โ€ and so we are always reviewing our instructions and installation process. Recently, as part of this constant effort our engineers looked more deeply into this aspect of installation. We had always felt that a small drop was a sign that the trailerโ€™s weight was being transferred to the front axle, and that this was essentially a good thing.

As our engineers reviewed the instructions for the last round of renewal of our instructions, the found research results that contradicted our prior thinking. There has been a substantial amount of testing conducted by experts from SAE and the RV Industry Association to find out what will produce the best stability when towing. This towing suggests that you want your front axleโ€™s compression to be close to, but not lower than your free-standing height.

(Underline added for emphasis.)
UNQUOTE

Ford says the Front Axle Load Restoration should be approximately 50%.

Chevrolet/GMC says the FALR should be 100%, 50% or 0% depending on TV model and TT weight.

Equal-i-zer says the Front Axle Load Restoration should be between 50% and 100%.

Equal-i-zer's revised instructions specifically state:

Good adjustment:
You have most likely achieved good weight distribution adjustment if your measurements show the following with the trailer coupled and the weight distribution engaged:
1. From the coupled without weight distribution measurement, the front wheel well measurement is at least halfway back to the original uncoupled measurement. See line C on Front Wheel Well Measure Chart.
2. The rear wheel well measurement is somewhere between the uncoupled height, and the coupled with no weight distribution height. It should NEVER be higher than the uncoupled height. See line C on Rear Wheel Well Measure Chart. See Figure 19.



Ron

4aSong
Explorer
Explorer
Ron Gratz wrote:
4aSong wrote:
Tow vehicle with no Trailer attached -- front 35 1/8

Tow vehicle with Trailer and equalizer bars attached (6 washers - 6th link) -- front 34 7/8

Equalizer bars are now parallel with the trailer frame.
IMO, if the front of the TV now is 1/4" lower when hitched with WD applied -- you have applied too much WD.

Also, IMO, if you previously had five chain links under tension and "proper weight distribution", you could have left it there.
There is no need to have the WD bars "parallel" as long as you have enough links under tension.

I recommend that you remove one washer (decrease from six to five) and keep the number of links at six. Then measure the before and after axle loads.

IMO, it is better to be slightly lighter on the front axle than to be slightly heavier.

Ron


Ron,

From all the readings on weight distribution hitch setup my understanding is that the tow vehicles front axle should measure the same as or less than the unloaded (dry) height of the tow vehicle. My understanding is that it is better to be a little heavy (1/4" drop) on the front to eliminate the "float" or light steering of the front end.

Mike
M & N

Tundra TRD V8 4x4 w/Leer Shell
EU2000i * Prodigy * McKesh * Trek * Renogy * ENU

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
4aSong wrote:
Tow vehicle with no Trailer attached -- front 35 1/8

Tow vehicle with Trailer and equalizer bars attached (6 washers - 6th link) -- front 34 7/8

Equalizer bars are now parallel with the trailer frame.
IMO, if the front of the TV now is 1/4" lower when hitched with WD applied -- you have applied too much WD.

Also, IMO, if you previously had five chain links under tension and "proper weight distribution", you could have left it there.
There is no need to have the WD bars "parallel" as long as you have enough links under tension.

I recommend that you remove one washer (decrease from six to five) and keep the number of links at six. Then measure the before and after axle loads.

IMO, it is better to be slightly lighter on the front axle than to be slightly heavier.

Ron

4aSong
Explorer
Explorer
Just added additional washers and dropped one link on the chains and here is what my measurements are;

Tow vehicle with no Trailer attached
  • front 35 1/8

  • rear 36


Tow vehicle with Trailer attached (No equalizer bars installed)
  • front 35 5/8

  • rear 33 3/4


Tow vehicle with Trailer and equalizer bars attached (6 washers - 6th link)
  • front 34 7/8

  • rear 35


Trailer measurements (ground to bottom of box) when attach to tow vehicle and equalizer bars installed
  • front 19 7/8

  • rear 21 5/8


Equalizer bars are now parallel with the trailer frame.

Based on the installation instructions, these measurements show to be acceptable but comments would be appreciated.

Thanks.... Mike
M & N

Tundra TRD V8 4x4 w/Leer Shell
EU2000i * Prodigy * McKesh * Trek * Renogy * ENU

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
I'd try going to 5 washers which will tilt the bars down more. Try that and see how it works. I believe you can use standard washers but try to get the same thickness as the EQ supplied washers.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

4aSong
Explorer
Explorer
I currently have 750lb. bars and the trailer hitch weight is 335lbs. dry, Can just standard washers be used or will I need special washers ?
M & N

Tundra TRD V8 4x4 w/Leer Shell
EU2000i * Prodigy * McKesh * Trek * Renogy * ENU

eric_james
Explorer
Explorer