Andersen 4" or 8" Drop? is this a Good Option for my set up?

[iplumb]

Hi Guys, new around here. I know this can be controversial, but would like to hear from Andersen WD hitch users. Purchasing a Jayco X213 with a dry hitch weight of only 390 lbs. I've heard it's pretty easy to end up with a 700 plus TW loaded. Pulling it with a 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 crew cab. Do you think an Andersen would work good on my set up should I get the 4" or 8" drop/rise model? Jayco to top of coupler is 19 3/4" GMC Unloaded is at center of hitch is 17 1/4" Im assuming I could go with the 4" but I've never seen one in person. Thanks for the help..

[Earl_E]

I read about the slippage problem but my hitch has a set screw. You crank that as tight as you can into the frame. I have had no slippage and don't baby it when towing. Maybe this is a fix. I would certainly buy the Andersen again because it is so easy to hook-up.

[Earl_E]

I read about the slippage problem but my hitch has a set screw. You crank that as tight as you can into the frame. I have had no slippage and don't baby it when towing. Maybe this is a fix. I would certainly buy the Andersen again because it is so easy to hook-up.

[Ron_Gratz]

iplumb wrote:
--- I've read a few reviews where they have had to weld it on do to it slipping on the frame brackets?don't want to do that! ---

Slippage of the frame brackets is a known problem.

In the installation manual, Andersen provides a "fix" against slippage:

OPTIONAL FRAME BRACKET INSTALLATION
(for both Regular and C-Channel frames)

Using the services of a certified welder, you can add a 2" weld along the lower back side of both outside frame brackets
(on the same side the spring is on). This will give you a very secure installation of the frame brackets without the need for
set screws. Before welding you will need to grind the paint off of the area to be welded.

NOTE: You do not need to weld the inside frame
brackets. Should you decide to sell your trailer later,
the weld could be easily removed by prying the
bracket away and grinding off the leftover weld.

Ron

[iplumb]

Anybody else have the Andersen? I've read a few reviews where they have had to weld it on do to it slipping on the frame brackets?don't want to do that!Need to get a WDH ordered soon.

[iplumb]

Again, Thanks! So you guys would go Andersen again? This is my 1st trailer with WD my current 17' Casita only has a friction sway control.

[Earl_E]

I bought the 8" drop and didn't need it. Problem now is that the 8" drop is so low that it often drags when I'm any kind of dip going into service stations, etc. Wish I had bought the 4". I've read that some people actually end up cutting off the additional length with a cutting torch, which I don't have. I love my Andersen because of the ease of hooking and hooking. No bars, etc.

[hbillsmith]

Andersen user for 3 years. You will be fine with the 4 inch. If later you find you need the 8, just send an email or call and Dave Andersen will execute a swap for you. The swap costs about $75.

[iplumb]

Wow! Thanks guys. Appreciate the help.

[Ron_Gratz]

iplumb wrote:
---Do you think an Andersen would work good on my set up should I get the 4" or 8" drop/rise model?---

I am not an Andersen WDH user.

If you load your trailer close to its 5500# GVWR, I agree the loaded tongue weight might be 700# or more.

The online 2012 Sierra 1500 Owners Manual, page 9-99, says you must use a WDH if the tongue weight exceeds 600#.

Page 9-101 implies the WDH should be adjusted to return the TV's front axle to its unhitched load.
This means your Owners Manual specifies 100% Front Axle Load Restoration.

Axle load and height data reported by Andersen users indicate it is unlikely that FALRs in excess of 60% can be achieved when the tongue weight exceeds about 600#.

Depending on how much load you want to restore to your TV's front axle, the Andersen WDH might not be suited for your application.

Ron

[handye9]

I think the Andersen hitch will suit you well, and your measurements sound like the 4" drop will do the job