Brake controller installations

Kibbis wrote:
I appreciate that, and I was just stating how out of topic this went.


I appreciate any input as well. I'm sure most of you have more Exp than I do. But if I'm going by the numbers, where my car will tow 3500 max, and my tw with a WD system will be within limits, I should be ok hauling this camper as long as I don't fill with water. Which I won't.

I'm more curious where you guys are finding the 2k tow limit? I haven't seen that number anywhere.

Kibbis, many of us here, have seen many Escape owners come here wanting to tow a full height travel trailer.
Then they come back remorseful about the mistake they made.
Because of the trailer's air reresistance, the Escape just doesn't have the torque to overcome it.
If the factory tow package only provides a class II hitch receiver and a 4-pin connector, that tells you that it's not equipped for anything bigger than a popup or A-frame trailer.

Another comment/opinion the OP hasn't asked for...but...

It is whole system and like most newbies, only look at it via one aspect of the whole system...and...why so many speak of ancillary stuff

Like the below quote...most newbies...heck even old salts think these OEM ratings are an 'absolute'...thinking that ratings apply no matter what the rest of the system conditions are...

Those numbers below are for a stripper model, or whatever model the OEM used to derive the MTWR

Unless the OP has that base, stripper, curb, etc TV the OEM used to derive their MTWR...that MTWR (below numbers) so NOT apply

If the OP has more options (factory and after market), has more than one 150lb driver, has stuff loaded onto/into the TV...the OP will be over the OEM's basis vehicle

Note that all things engineered/designed are NOT for the good days out there...but for the worst day when Mr Murphy crossed your path.

Either you have the right sized everything...adjusted correctly...spot on. If not, then no time to go back to the store for the right stuff...nor readjust

All that is the ability to manhandle the situation...both with the drivers talent/experience/etc and the whole system for towing

Kibbis wrote:
snip....

The rating on it is 3500lbs and 300lb tw. Also states that if I use a weight dist. the TW increases to 500 (also states that the hitch towing capacity increases to 5k. Still sticking with the 3500 limit of the vehicle though). It's right on the sticker so I'm going to assume that it's OK to use a WD system.snip....

I appreciate that, and I was just stating how out of topic this went.


I appreciate any input as well. I'm sure most of you have more Exp than I do. But if I'm going by the numbers, where my car will tow 3500 max, and my tw with a WD system will be within limits, I should be ok hauling this camper as long as I don't fill with water. Which I won't.

I'm more curious where you guys are finding the 2k tow limit? I haven't seen that number anywhere.

Kibbis wrote:
Snip...

All I asked was difficulty in installing a brake controller.

All the members here are doing is trying to help you. They are trying to help you not make a possibly expensive and dangerous mistake. They have no other iron in the fire.

It happens quite frequently that someone will come on here and ask a question which will then bend slightly off topic because of what the members see as a possible dangerous or unpleasant situation. They then will try to help the member out by expressing their opinion. Keep in mind that we have some VERY experienced RVers and towing experts here. They usually have no other purpose in posting other than to help the member out.

In your case, you stated some things that rang a bell in our minds to indicate a questionable situation. We wanted to bring those things to the front so you could make an informed decision as to what to do. If your decision is to install that brake controller and use your present vehicle to tow a trailer, then so be it.
Barney

enblethen wrote:
Not sure what year op is looking at. Here is some specs I found. It appears to be border line.
Launch 16rb specs

It's a 2018. Only specs I saw on that site were for 17, but it's pretty spot on to the specs for 18. It's close, I realize that. The camping I do is generally all within an hours distance and the only place I'm going with a lot of large hills is Knoebels.

BarneyS wrote:
If, as you say the hitch is a Class II, then you cannot use weight distribution with it. It is not designed nor tested to be used with weight distribution. You would need to replace the receiver on the vehicle with a class III hitch that is designed for weight distribution use.

Even if you changed your hitch, I would not tow any full sized trailer with that vehicle. The manufacturer placed a 2000lb limit on it for a reason. The limit is based on many factors such as engine, transmission, rear axle gearing, axle loading, tires etc. etc. etc. and not just hitch capacity. A full height travel trailer is going to put too much strain on your vehicle for which it was not designed or intended. Sorry.
Barney

The rating on it is 3500lbs and 300lb tw. Also states that if I use a weight dist. the TW increases to 500 (also states that the hitch towing capacity increases to 5k. Still sticking with the 3500 limit of the vehicle though). It's right on the sticker so I'm going to assume that it's OK to use a WD system.

I don't know where the 2000lb number is coming from. I called the dealer, checked my manual and the hitch itself all say 3500 lbs. I'm not going to be towing this with fluids either. I do realize I'll be pretty close to maxed out here, but I also only have 2 more camping trips planned this year before looking to get a larger vehicle. If I can make that, I'll be good to go.

All I asked was difficulty in installing a brake controller.

Trailer brakes are not hard to hook up provided you are able to tap into the the brake light "switch" on your car for the "signal" wire for a controller. Idk if all newer cars still use a switch down on the brake pedal to activate the brake lights.
Aside from that, a brake controller is a simple 4 wire setup.
Signal wire to activate brake controller when vehicle brakes are applied.
+ fused power source (from battery or anywhere convienent or appropriate)
- to ground
+ to trailer plug/ brakes.

Stand alone brake controllers are controlled by inertia. Hook up all the wires right and you have trailer brakes. Some controllers are self adjusting for the level or attitude you mount them, some need to be adjusted for that additionally.
Good luck with the new camper!

If, as you say the hitch is a Class II, then you cannot use weight distribution with it. It is not designed nor tested to be used with weight distribution. You would need to replace the receiver on the vehicle with a class III hitch that is designed for weight distribution use.

Even if you changed your hitch, I would not tow any full sized trailer with that vehicle. The manufacturer placed a 2000lb limit on it for a reason. The limit is based on many factors such as engine, transmission, rear axle gearing, axle loading, tires etc. etc. etc. and not just hitch capacity. A full height travel trailer is going to put too much strain on your vehicle for which it was not designed or intended. Sorry.
Barney

Not sure what year op is looking at. Here is some specs I found. It appears to be border line.
Launch 16rb specs

Kibbis wrote:

bikendan wrote:

Kibbis wrote:
Can I ask where you gettin that information? I have a class 2 hitch and I will double check but I believe the manual says 3500. From what I read online the tow package just includes the hitch, wiring and a sway control which I would think I could use sway control and weight distro at the hitch.

I'll call the dealer to confirm. If i do need an trans cooler, it runs about 60 bucks. We are getting a great deal on this camper and will probably upgrade the car in the next year anyway so I would hate to miss out.

Apparently I'm incorrect with the 7 pin connector, only 4 pin.
I would still verify the hitch receiver being factory.

BUT the 16rb's loaded hitch weight will exceed the Escape's max of 350lbs.
And Ford states the the max frontal area for the v-6 Escape is 30 sq ft, which any full height trailer, like the 16rb, will exceed.
I confirmed that from the 2011 Ford Escape towing guide page.

The camper says (I believe), the gvw is 2995. That gives me about 500lbs wiggle room. I won't be hauling it with full tanks, but I'm fairly new to bigger campers, so would this still exceed the towing capacity of 3500?

The dealer did say that a good weight dist. Will allow me to tow 500 extra lbs. That I'm not trusting and sticking with 3500. We have only 2 more camping trips planned this year so if we can make it for those two, we should have a new suv or truck for next year.

I'll look into the hitch weight as well.

If you are really going to try to stay within weights, you need to do a bit more research. From what I can tell, that 2995 is a dry weight, not loaded. Propane, some trailer accessories, all fluids, and all your gear go on top of that. In short, I’d be shocked if that trailer, loaded to camp, is not near or above 3,500.

Meanwhile, your 3,500 limit (if you have that much), is for EVERYTHING. Not only what you put in the trailer, but everything you put in the car (except an average driver), including passengers, gear, and a good 75 pounds in hitch assembly, all go against that limit.

I’m not what some would call ‘weight police,’ but I’d bet a pretty good sum that there is no way you will be within the ratings of your SUV when hooked up and ready. Whether or not that is something you will concern yourself with is your call.