Braking concerns

There' something wrong. Your light should only be on when the trailer is connect (electrically). It's an indication that you are connected and once you apply the brake the colour change shows how strong the brake is set. Redder is a higher setting. Most commonly a light orange shade is the right setting.

g4sbrg wrote:
well the plot thickens, and maybe I am just a idiot, driving to work today (no trailer) I notice my light on the control flickering, that was odd, so when I got to work I was looking at the control and found a secondary adjustment that may have been out of whack. I only thought there was one adjustment the initial engagement signal, this second lever look like a rheostat type of thing I would bet it is the max voltage (or amps ??), in any case I may just be better off putting in a new control to ease my mind and narrow the things it could be. I mean what 100 to 150 bucks is nothing compared to the dent in the car in front of you. its an old controller that was in the truck on top of that. and that way I get a instruction sheet thanks for the advice and comments will let you know

Is it a Voyager??? If so one levels it, and the other sets the strength? It must be level to work right. Unlike the Prodigy which levels itself

I think you have a really good plan. Let us know how it works out.

well the plot thickens, and maybe I am just a idiot, driving to work today (no trailer) I notice my light on the control flickering, that was odd, so when I got to work I was looking at the control and found a secondary adjustment that may have been out of whack. I only thought there was one adjustment the initial engagement signal, this second lever look like a rheostat type of thing I would bet it is the max voltage (or amps ??), in any case I may just be better off putting in a new control to ease my mind and narrow the things it could be. I mean what 100 to 150 bucks is nothing compared to the dent in the car in front of you. its an old controller that was in the truck on top of that. and that way I get a instruction sheet thanks for the advice and comments will let you know

that a good point.. what is min gauge the wire should be from 7 pin plug to brake magnets.

That might be something to look at if the brakes seem weak.. not really getting the full voltage from controller.

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
The shop may never get it correct.

The reason is "some" newer trailers are "very" cheaply made; including the brake system. :E

They use the smallest wire, magnets and shoes they can get away with. I've seen trailers you can't even get close to locking up at speed because of very cheap brake parts. Even at a full 13 volts it would barely slow the trailer down because of junk brake systems.

Do you have one of those trailers? I can't say, but I'm sure a competent shop can.

BTW, Terry's post was spot on. You should be able to stop your truck trailer combo almost a quickly as the truck solo. Good luck and let us know what the shop finds.

The shop may never get it correct.

The reason is "some" newer trailers are "very" cheaply made; including the brake system. :E

They use the smallest wire, magnets and shoes they can get away with. I've seen trailers you can't even get close to locking up at speed because of very cheap brake parts. Even at a full 13 volts it would barely slow the trailer down because of junk brake systems.

Do you have one of those trailers? I can't say, but I'm sure a competent shop can.

BTW, Terry's post was spot on. You should be able to stop your truck trailer combo almost a quickly as the truck solo. Good luck and let us know what the shop finds.

g4sbrg wrote:
OK thanks, I seem to have an issue, I don't think they will lock up. with the electric adjuster set rather high (the initial voltage) the trailer does slow down the truck when using the trailer brakes manually but takes forever to stop the rig driving always hoping the light stays green !!. I guess I either have a control or magnet issue. there's a trailer shop right by work I guess they would be able to test the control set up.

Thanks yall

Are you saying, you are trying to stop the whole thing with just the TT brakes? That Will take a long time.
I also hope the light stays green. but if it don't. I can still stop. Happened 3 times just this last weekend.

OK thanks, I seem to have an issue, I don't think they will lock up. with the electric adjuster set rather high (the initial voltage) the trailer does slow down the truck when using the trailer brakes manually but takes forever to stop the rig driving always hoping the light stays green !!. I guess I either have a control or magnet issue. there's a trailer shop right by work I guess they would be able to test the control set up.

Thanks yall

the last thing you want is for your trailer tires to lock up on a panic stop. that's what causes a trailer to jacknife. you want them to almost lock up. that said, depending on trailer weight, and what size brakes it has you may not be able to get the close to locking up even with the control on the highest setting.

I figure a panic stop when pulling my trailer (10K lbs) will take twice as long to stop as my truck alone. It may not be that far, but it will be longer than the truck alone.

To add to this discussion, not sure what brake controller you are using but you can adjust the stopping power on it. As the poster above me mentioned, once you have the brakes adjusted you can adjust the TT brakes to almost lock up at 25 mph. From that point on you are right where you need to be.

I have a Tekonsha P3 controller and have three boost settings as well the ability to adjust the initial voltage to fine tune where it needs to be.