Dicor or Eternabond

[littlemo]

I have already searched the forums about caulking but I am still confused about which to use where.

The "Caulking" around my sky light is very thick but it has a crack in the middle almost all the way around.

We are having heavy rains right now and I noticed a small amount of water dripping around one area of the skylight. I got up on the roof and found the crack. I guess when it gets sunny again I will have to replace the caulking on and around everything up there. I just have a tarp up there now.

From reading here it seems silicone is not recommended. What is up there is very wide and very thick. I used Dicor when we put our solar wires through the roof and I have used Eternabond on an older 5th wheel to repair the roof.

Need your expertise!

Thanks

[jsmart]

X2 dicor self leveling after cleaning.

[2oldman]

OP needs to be sure there's no water left in the skylight frame inside. On mine, there's a rectangular piece of perimeter trim I had to remove and let the wood framing dry out.

[John_Joey]

Dave H M wrote:
Why complicate the issue. Just do like 2oldman suggests but clean the surface first.

Way I have done it for years

Because the Dicor is no-longer attached to the roof. It has lifted off the roof. Filling in the cracks now is too late, the damage has been done.

[Dave_H_M]

Why complicate the issue. Just do like 2oldman suggests but clean the surface first.

Way I have done it for years

[JIMNLIN]

I do a twice a year check on all roof jacks and fixtures and all lap sealant.
The sealant on my '97 5er's skylite pulled up for about 10" on one side in '05. I pulled all that would come off and added Dicor self leveling to that spot.

I also added a bit of Dicor to a few small hairline cracks in the sealant.

The unit has never leaked other than hail cracking the same skylite 6 years ago. I replaced it with a unbreakable one made of Lexan.
I installed the new one as the factory with butyl tape 1st and then Dicor over the edges and screw heads.

There are other good sealant brand on the market that work just as good as Dicor.

[John_Joey]

I was right there with 2oldmen on the "just fill the crack" until I thought about it a little more.

So many on this forum don't like Dicor because it does crack after so many years. All you need to do is fill in the cracks with new and you're good.

What happens is the water goes into the cracks, as the cracks get deeper and wider the water works it's way UNDER the Dicor letting water enter the RV. So then members assume the stuff is no good.

You need to fill in cracks prior to any leakage, you waited too long. You'll now will have to very carefully remove the caulk and replace it with new. Attempt to find the maker of the skylight and see what they recommend. Some skylights will become brittle and crack if you use the wrong stuff.

If you have a rubber roof using any hardware suggested caulk can led to holes in your rubber roof. Rubber roofs and petroleum products do not mix. So the "handy hardware man" selling you a tube of cheap blackjack, may cause you thousands of dollars of damage when you need a new roof.

[gbopp]

2oldman wrote:
I battled that for years until I found Heng's RV roof coating. Goes on like paint and seals up anything that leaks. Might take a few coats.

Looks interesting, I've never heard of it. Thanks for the link. I'm coating my roof in the spring.

[littlemo]

2oldman wrote:

littlemo wrote:
Someone suggested putting Dicor over the crack and not removing the current caulk. Will this be okay to do this.

I think that someone was I.

Thanks then! That will be so much easier!

[2oldman]

littlemo wrote:
Someone suggested putting Dicor over the crack and not removing the current caulk. Will this be okay to do this.

I think that someone was I.

[littlemo]

2oldman wrote:

littlemo wrote:
I just have a tarp up there now.

Good idea. Make sure the tarp is covering only the skylight area so you're sure that's where the leak starts.

Thanks! I am sure that is where it is coming from. That's where the BIG crack is in the "Caulk". I guess it's just a matter of time before the other cracks get bigger.

Someone suggested putting Dicor over the crack and not removing the current caulk. Will this be okay to do this. That "putty" (as someone called it because that's what it looks like) is an inch or two thick and about 3 inches wide. I would love it if that would work. My DH has severe back problems and it will be hard for me to get that mess off by myself. But I want to do it right so whatever I have to do. It probably is cracking around the other vents and stuff too. I'll have to look.

Anyway thanks!

[Dr_Quick]

My experience has been, for irregular surfaces I use Dicor, for flat surfaces Eternabond.
I have put new Dicor over existing caulk as long as it's surface was clean. Old Dicor can be removed with "plastic" putty knife if you think it is necessary.
I have used roof coating and a gallon will cover about 50 Sq. Ft. Once you mix it up, as the one that I used was a two part material, you have only so much time to get work done. Also remainder of gallon will set up and can not be used.
Also Dicor is about $9.00 a tube and the roof coating $55.00.

[path1]

http://www.surebond.com/SB-140/

Doesn't react with plastic that skylights are made of. Tube of it came with my new skylight.

Skylights way over priced IMO. 14" X 22" $124.00

You can probably find lots cheaper but I got what I could get in a hurry.

[2oldman]

littlemo wrote:
I just have a tarp up there now.

Good idea. Make sure the tarp is covering only the skylight area so you're sure that's where the leak starts.

[2oldman]

I recommend neither of those for skylight leaks, nor do I think you have to remove any caulk.

I battled that for years until I found Heng's RV roof coating. Goes on like paint and seals up anything that leaks. Might take a few coats.