Dinghy Towing Help – 2011 Honda CRV

SnugBugs wrote:
Willald, I was sold on the Readybrute setup you have, up until I became concerned with the invasive install (or so it seemed). If you would, can you explain what is involved in the installation? That would help a lot, as I prefer both the price and simplicity of the Readybrake set up...

Randy/Sarah,
The installation essentially involves running a physical cable from your brake pedal, through the firewall and out to the front of your vehicle. Thats pretty much it. I consider it a 'non-intrusive' install in that you are not tapping into any of your vehicle's systems (electric, etc). Its just a physical linkage cable from brake pedal out to front bumper.

If you use any kind of break-away system (which you really, really should), you're going to have to run some kind of cable or wire like this (front bumper to brake pedal), regardless which system it is.

On some vehicles, the Readybrake cable installation is very simple and can be done yourself fairly easily. On other vehicles that have a lot of 'stuff' under the hood you have to work around, it can get a little more tricky.

Our last vehicle, a Kia minivan, this installation was done in about an hour by our mechanic. Wasn't too bad. However, on our present vehicle, a Ford Fusion hybrid, it was a bit more difficult due to how crowded it is under the hood with these hybrids. Took the mechanic several hours to do it.

I don't know how simple it may or may not be for your specific vehicle, a Honda CRV. However, there are a LOT of folks on here towing CRVs, and several (like the previous poster) that use Readybrake with them and are very happy with it. Perhaps one of them can give you some specific information, about how it is to install the Readybrake cable on a CRV?

You might try doing a search in this Forum for 'Readybrake' and/or 'Honda CRV'. I do know there's been a few threads over the years talking about specifics of installing Readybrake on CRVs. There's also a recent thread on here showing really good pictures of the installation on a Ford Focus, that might give you an idea as well..

Will

We tow a 2012 CRV with diodes for the lights, ready brake with brake away system and fuse switch installed just out of sight.

I'm using magnetic LED lights from PPL on our 2013 and made my own fuse off switch. On my magnetic lights I did run four conductor wire from the front of the CR-V to the back interior so when I hook them up I don't need to figure out how to run the wires outside the car to the back and get wire rub marks. I found the best deal on a Roadmaster 521567-1 Tow Bar Baseplate at Amazon.com, $327.38 last July. Dick

I also wired a "toad charge" system from LSL Products. It works great, but I make sure both the radio and climate control are off. Because we'll be full-timing in the next few months, I used a "stay-in-play" brake system from SMI. Nothing to remove or install, just a switch to throw to turn it on or off. It's on a 2013 CRV.

Thank you all for the useful info! And yes, there are pros and cons with pretty much every option, and we're still weighing things out.

Willald, I was sold on the Readybrute setup you have, up until I became concerned with the invasive install (or so it seemed). If you would, can you explain what is involved in the installation? That would help a lot, as I prefer both the price and simplicity of the Readybrake set up...

vic46 wrote:
Safety chains?
Breakaway system?

Safety chains should come with the tow bar.

Breakaway system is a good point, though. Not sure if Even Brake system that original poster is considering comes with a breakaway system or not, but Readybrake (what I recommended in the previous post) has their ReadyStop breakaway system for around $100 IIRC. It works OK with just about any setup. Thats what I'd recommend.

Will

Safety chains?
Breakaway system?

..Unless you've already purchased the hardware, I would recommend replacing this:


Roadmaster Falcon All-Terrain Tow Bar
Even Brake Supplemental Braking System

With:

ReadyBrute Elite tow bar and Readybrake braking system (package deal)

...Will save you over $1000, and you'll have a much better braking system. Simple, cable-operated braking system, with no electronics to foul up your brakes, nothing to have to put in and take out every time you tow, and fairly simple non-intrusive (one time) installation. IMO, you just can't beat the Readybrake system, especially if you haven't already bought a tow bar, and get their ReadyBrute Elite package deal that gives you both tow bar AND braking system for almost the same as you'd pay for just a tow bar alone from other brands.

As to the Magnetic Brake/Turn Lights - As you've already seen, there's quite a few very strong opinions either way on that one. Either approach (wiring tailights or using magnetic lights) has its pros and cons.

If you do go with Magnetic lights, I would only warn you of the following (from one thats been there, done that, and learned the hard way):

- DO NOT run the wires for the magnetic lights across any painted surface (hood, roof, sides) of your Honda! It will scratch the paint badly (don't ask how I know this, haha).

- Be cautious where you put the lights, and look at putting some kind of thin cloth or shield between the magnetic light and the vehicle. This will reduce the risk of scratching, which can happen with those lights.

I would go with the diodes also as the magnetic lights that I have scratched my car. It is just a matter of time before I run the wire and install the diodes. Also with the diodes you do not have to pull the wires each time you hook up the magnetic lights, which to me take a lot of time.

If I am not mistaken Motorhome magazine did an article on putting in a switch on a CRV for the radio a few months ago. It would have to be easier than crawling down under the dash to pull a fuse. JMO

I personally would go with the diodes on the lights, never a failure on 3 different toads.
The one thing you do need is a radio fuse switch installed or a battery charge wire. The newer Hondas will have a dead battery after a few hours of towing if the radios fuse is not pulled/switched off or a charge wire.