equal-i-zer can't hitch with more spacer washers

[archer75]

I've towed successfully with the 10k equal-i-zer and my nissan titan. I had it setup perfectly. Then I got a new truck, Ram 2500, and a trailer that sits higher. Now I find it extremely difficult to hitch and unhitch. The more spacer washers I use the more difficult or impossible it is. I currently am using only a single washer and it's still challenging to get the coupler engaged and even more difficult to get it off. I've moved the L bar brackets as far up as I can. The arms are not even remotely parallel to the frame now but it's the only way I can get enough weight distribution without the use of more washers.
I am using the equal-i-zer grease on the hitch ball.

Is there any way to use more washers and make it easier to couple/decouple?

[lbrjet]

Haven't looked at my manual in years, but thought it said to use 4-8 washers. I apologize if this was incorrect.

[Ron_Gratz]

flyairam wrote:
You know when this hitch is set up correctly the trailer should be level, the truck should drop nearly equal front to rear, and the spring bars should be level with the trailer tongue. It might take some trial and error to get a proper setup with your new truck.

The front of the truck should not be lower than the unhitched height.

According to the Equal-I-zer Owners Manual:

Step 7 - Weight Distribution Adjustments:
WARNING
Weight distribution is only one of many things that influence sway. The operator is responsible for making necessary adjustments to all contributing factors in order to minimize sway.

Good adjustment:
You have most likely achieved good weight distribution adjustment if your measurement on Line C of the weight distribution setup table shows that front wheel well measurement is at least halfway back to the original uncoupled measurement. See Line C on Weight Distribution Setup Table (p. 16) and Figure 19 below. It should never be lower than Line A.

(Underline added for emphasis.)

Ron

[BarneyS]

lbrjet wrote:
Four washers is the minimum according to the manual.

Here is what the Equal-i-zer manual says.
"Start with 5 spacer washers for
longer wheelbase tow vehicles like pickup trucks, and 4 spacer washers with
shorter wheelbase vehicles like an SUV." That is not the minimum. You can use less if necessary. The reason to start with 4 or 5 is that amount usually results in the bars resting flat on the L brackets when they are on the recommended hole for most common trailer frame widths that would be pulled by those types of vehicles.

You do not want the WD bars meeting the L bracket at an angle because that means the mating surface will be on the edge of the bracket instead of flat on it. This reduces the effectiveness, makes more noise, and can possibly damage the L bracket.
Barney

[lbrjet]

Four washers is the minimum according to the manual.

[archer75]

The issue isn't getting the bars on the brackets. It was getting the coupler to latch.

I have it working well as it sits now but the bars are certainly not level. If I move it down 1 notch on the L brackets I don't have enough weight distribution. But if I add another washer to correct that I can no longer get the coupler to lock on the ball.

[3oaks]

Very good explanation, Randy. That is the procedure we use too.

To the original poster, I would review the proper procedure for setting up the Equal-i-zer hitch. The instructions explain it step by step. The washers and L bracket adjustments are to shift the right amount of weight to the front axil of the tow vehicle and keeping the bars parallel to the frame. The hitch shank up/down adjustment is use to level the trailer. Then use the trailer tongue jack to relieve the pressure on the bars when hitching and unhitching as Randy explained.

I always look for a large paved parking lot on a day with little occupancy to properly set up my hitch when ever I change tow vehicles.

[flyairam]

Sir,

If you hitch and latch the ball, then raise the trailer tongue using the tongue jack, you'll find your equalizer bars raising up to match their L brackets. My previous trailer had an obscene tongue weight, 1400 pounds, and this is the technique I used to get the spring bars onto their perch. The reverse procedure should be used to unhitch; raise the trailer tongue while still hitched up, lift off the bars, then lower the tongue to uncouple.

You know when this hitch is set up correctly the trailer should be level, the truck should drop nearly equal front to rear, and the spring bars should be level with the trailer tongue. It might take some trial and error to get a proper setup with your new truck.

Good luck,

Randy

[archer75]

I found the issue. The truck has to be perfectly aligned with the trailer or it won't couple.
My driveway isn't a rectangle. One side is straight but the other side with the trailer is only straight half way. And then it cuts inward. The trailer sits in the straight part of that section. So typically I have the truck matching the angle of the driveway when hitching up so that it will stay on the driveway. Maybe a 30 degree angle to the trailer
Today I backed it straight up and in so one side of the truck was on the driveway and the other side was sitting in some rocks just off the driveway but this kept the truck straight in relation to the trailer. The driveway does slope down slightly in that direction.

Anyways, it coupled right up super easy.

I'm going to take it for a test drive and see how it rides with the current equal-i-zer settings. Then i'll back it in the middle of the driveway which is flatter and make any more adjustments I need.
At it's current settings I appear to have enough weight distribution though the trailer sits very slightly nose down. About a 1/4" - 1/2".

[archer75]

I do use the equal-i-zer grease.

[goducks10]

I had the same type issue when I had my F150 and used an EQ WD. The more washers the more it put the coupler in a bind. This might sound stupid but have you lube the coupler? I had to keep mine pretty well greased up for the under jaw to release. What I found I had to do most every time was make sure the TT was chocked, raise the tongue and when it was at the top and still caught, drive the truck forward an inch or so and that takes the pressure of the under jaw. I needed 6 washers but could only use 5 because of the binding.

[archer75]

The wheels are chocked and I have a drop shank and tested it on two different positions. It's always been a huge pain on either truck.

[Calicajun]

If your new truck is higher than the old new you need to buy a longer shank. I went from a 1500 Ram to a 2500 Ram and had to buy a new shank in order to get the drop needed to level the TT.

[Dakota98]

Are the TT wheels choked in either procedure ? If so, maybe try it without.

And / or TV in neutral.

Just a thought.