Excursion overheats&leaks tranny fl towing going 50,uphill

[thepartybus]

Hello. This is our first time out in our new travel trailer with new to us 2001 Excurion 7.3 diesel. Towing 2015 open range 310bhs 9500 lbs.
We got 40 miles out of town to notice overheating issues, made it to state line, stopped for fuel and to get service. We noticed tranny fluid leaking then gushing from under the car. We got towed to ford dealership. First day nothing on diagnostics. Second day, it's fan clutch. That didn't sound that likely from our reading on the problem, but they were adamant. $600 later we got back on interstate and drove 5 miles and back to dealership. Now they are saying must be two sep issues requiring new radiator AND new tranny. Now, this transmission works great when not towing, shifts great, never overheats. Same with the tranny fluid leak--only when towing. We were supposed to be off on a 6-week dream trip planned forever. Us and 5 kids. If we need to replace all that, there goes our vacation fund and we can go somewhere for a week, then home. We don't have a lot of money, we have invested so much in this dream. The excursion has cost us $6k over purchase price already. If anyone has experienced or heard of or has any other ideas, we're pretty bummed. Having fun camping but we would like to be able to pull out trailer. We have to do something soon. Thanks!

[LarryJM]

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:
I have a 2000 7.3 and just did 4 glow plugs 6 months ago. I'm a powerstroke.org member also, and learned of the connector under the valve cover. If you google the 50 cent mod, you will see that there is a quarter size "coin" with 1/3 ground away. You then slip it into the connector to keep it locked together. Ford actually sells this part, but 2 quarters on the grinder is easy and cheap, hence $ 0.50 mod.

Yea I remember reading about the DIY fix. I bought the "IH kit", but in working with the passenger side which is a near impossible situation in the Vans I broke the UVC harness to the GP/Injectors so I has to replace that and just decided to simply replace both UVC gaskets also since IIRC they were under $50/each instead of installing the "offical fix". One issue with the Vans is things get so hot in the engine compartment plastic stuff gets really brittle and things tend to break or melt/deform. While this last issue is not applicable to the OP it's yet another of those "knowledge" factors that if a mechanic is not well versed in not only the particular engine, but the platform it's in he/she can really mess things up.

Larry

[marcsbigfoot20b]

I have a 2000 7.3 and just did 4 glow plugs 6 months ago. I'm a powerstroke.org member also, and learned of the connector under the valve cover. If you google the 50 cent mod, you will see that there is a quarter size "coin" with 1/3 ground away. You then slip it into the connector to keep it locked together. Ford actually sells this part, but 2 quarters on the grinder is easy and cheap, hence $ 0.50 mod.

[LarryJM]

rosspulliam wrote:
If it just happened like that then it's possible the plugs just got jarred loose during all of the other repairs. I've had both UVCHs (Under Valve Cover Harnesses) in my truck, but the rough running was progressive and could be detected with a Cylinder Contribution Test.

There is no code for "valve cover gasket" but if that entire bank of injectors suddenly quit firing properly and all of the even numbered injectors are failing a buzz test and/or cylinder contribution test that is a very likely culprit.

"The head gaskets were checked" could put the mechanic in the vicinity of the UVCH plugs. They do become brittle with age and perhaps they got broke, disconnected, or something along those lines.

The left side is the easier of the two, I can do mine start to finish in an hour or so.

To expand on that there is a know issue with the UVCH in that year 7.3L coming loose because of it's design. This can be hard to diagnose (remember my warning in my previous post about mechanics being aware of all the nuiances in the 7.3L engine and this is one along with several other like the infamous tranny mechanical diode, coast clutch failure, etc., etc.). Some of these are easy to fix while others are more expensive, but it takes a well trained and highly compentent mechanic well versed in this engine to not be a "throw parts" repairman. IH came out with a $5 or $10 fix that consisted of a special retainer clip for the plugs IIRC for the under cover connection along with a new complete gasket and harness with the improved clips. This issue can start out as an intermittent miss, and progress to it going away as the engine warms up and the connection problem goes away and then slowly progressing to a no start issue. I had this happen to my 2001 Van a couple of years ago and decided to just replace both UVCH gaskets (the new ones have the redesigned retainer clip).

Larry

[thepartybus]

Thanks y'all! Southpaw, I hear you but the investment has been huge... Had we known to quit at the first breakdown (before trip)... We just finally turned NORTH but not notifying family till we make it out of the confederacy...if we break down again, I'll leave it to another post. Thx again for all the ideas and advice!

[rosspulliam]

If it just happened like that then it's possible the plugs just got jarred loose during all of the other repairs. I've had both UVCHs (Under Valve Cover Harnesses) in my truck, but the rough running was progressive and could be detected with a Cylinder Contribution Test.

There is no code for "valve cover gasket" but if that entire bank of injectors suddenly quit firing properly and all of the even numbered injectors are failing a buzz test and/or cylinder contribution test that is a very likely culprit.

"The head gaskets were checked" could put the mechanic in the vicinity of the UVCH plugs. They do become brittle with age and perhaps they got broke, disconnected, or something along those lines.

The left side is the easier of the two, I can do mine start to finish in an hour or so.

[SouthpawHD]

Sorry to hear all the problems you are having, especially on a family vacation. Sucks for sure.

But it's time to just say this - cut your losses and RUN AWAY from this thing! Your life is at a standstill because of these problems and you are spending thousand$$$ and making no real progress. It just might be time to call it and get out.

Either way, good luck to you.

[thepartybus]

I hear you all loud and clear on the transmission cooler -- if we have tranny issues that is the first thing we will do. The diesel guy who replaced the radiator was pretty adamant on dont waste your money on things you don't need, that isn't he problem--the overheating problem is resolved with the radiator.

What the shop we got towed to last night (lost power to engine, check engine light came on, no tranny fluid or overheating) is that the code Dx said valve cover gasket...injectors not firing on left side of engine they are replacing and hopefully that will correct this new issue. Any one had something like this happen suddenly?

[Swmpbgy1]

Mr_MrsSchlepprock250 wrote:
Bottom line is... You need a 6.0 transmission cooler. They bolt right up to the stock location, you just need some rubber line and a few fittings. The stock transmission cooler for the 7.3 equipped trucks is way too small.

I will ECHO this....I have the same truck as you.....same problem. Replaced the stock tranny cooler with the MUCH larger 6.0 cooler and all my transmission problems went away......remember, heat will kill the tranny in our excursions......Best of luck.

Swmpbgy1

[hawkeye-08]

You might want to call the station where you got fuel and let them know you only made it 10 miles after getting fuel. If they had a supply problem, you are likely not the only one effected. Sometimes they admit it and cover repairs caused by bad fuel. I don't know that you got bad fuel, but it is possible.

Had some friends rent a diesel car in Europe, they filled up with gasoline and had to pay for repairs..

[thepartybus]

The transmission is no longer leaking. The fluid is red, no burnt smell.

[philh]

Has trans fluid been replaced?

Is it bright red, or dark red leading to brown?

Is there fluid on top of the trans by the vent, or only dripping off the bottom.

On the trans side of the issue, I would lead to foaming, which means it lost both it's ability to cool and properly function... which leads to more heat. Some Ford transmissions require an anti foaming additive which can lose it's effectiveness over time.

[thepartybus]

I didn't think I was bemoaning, I thought it was polite to come back and acknowledge the responses. I'll try to stick to the facts as I am definitely here for advice not pity. The mechanic's theory was that the engine was so hot from clogged radiator that it heated the transmission fluid because the fluid was not burned and only poured out when the engine overheated and stopped with the new radiator. So we got about 60 miles down the road- engine running nice and cool. Stopped at a truck stop to fill up with diesel. 10 miles down the road broke down AGAIN! Engine cool--but stopped getting power. It's like we ran out of gas, like gas wasn't getting to engine or we were stuck in high gear because car shook and was idling high and stopped moving. So now we've been towed to another campground and excursion towed to their truck/auto repair where they willl look in the AM. So disappointing after all the time and expense. So that's all I know: not overheating issue anymore...could they have jarred something during installation? Something weird with full tank of diesel?! Or jarred further by feuling process, or unrelated. "Service Engine Soon" light came on. Head gaskets were checked and previous shop had no codes but maybe now they will...no fluid leaking and the levels are good. Hubby did drive with cruise control on which probably isn't related but I suggested might not be safe...just trying to provide all details!!

[Grit_dog]

Just a reccomendation, when posting for help, there are many helpful people on here and other boards, but you have to give up info that is asked rather than just bemoaning the saga with the different shops. No one can help you with that, but we can help u diagnose the problem.
Hope your truck is fixed now, but radiators don't cure trans leaks unless it was leaking from the internal cooler in the radiator.

[thepartybus]

Thank you all for the posts and advice--and link to the diesel site. We are getting a new radiator today. Will either be on our way--after 9 days, because we should have gone to a diesel shop tomatoey, others could have done it but they just don't see these ptoblems and are apparently afraid of these older diesel vehicles, they don't see a lot of our issues--or limp back home and go back to our lives for a bit as we get it worked on locally.