Fridge won't stay lit

[Caveman_Charlie]

I have a Norcold Fridge model 6035 (I think that's it anyway. 5.5 CI) I had a new cooling unit installed in it. Now I can't get the fridge to stay lit up on propane. It's not the igniter everything is working like it should ( I put a new dinosaur igniter board in is some years back and a bran new igniter a few days ago)

It's like there is air in the system but, there can't be. The furnace is right below it and it works fine as does the stove and the water heater.

It just keeps popping until finally it goes out.

Pop, pop,, poof, poof, And finally it pops enough until the flame goes out. It will try and successfully relight a few times but, eventually it goes out enough times that the board shuts it down completely. It almost seems to get worse the longer it runs.

I'm completely stumped. It always worked fine before. It's such a simple system. I cant imagine what could be wrong.

[covered_wagon]

Mine does the same dance, pop pop poof poof. I replaced the burner tip as it was half gone with a new factory stainless steel burner. Excellent solution since the old one corroded away, was inferior metal. It now runs smooth as glass.

Just want to say these symptoms are typically a clogged or corroded burner. Sometimes just a cleaning will do the trick for 7 years or so, as in my case, eventually had to replace it. It was really great to see the new stainless steel burner. 40 bucks was worth the price.

[enblethen]

No thermal couple. It uses a flame sensor.
Manual

[naturist]

I am not familiar with that unit, but my experience with various propane/natural gas appliances over the years has convinced me that the two most common points of failure on all of them are crud/dead bugs in the burner assembly and the thermocouple that keeps the gas flowing after light up. Everything else is pretty much bullet-proof. It has to be from a strictly safety standpoint.

From your description of symptoms, I think you have a failed thermocouple. These are a designed point of failure, frankly, and the last one I bought cost $5 and took me 15 minutes to replace. Given the low cost and ease of replacement, I'd throw a new one in just because and see if that doesn't fix the problem.

EDIT: Btw, no need to try to find the exact thermocouple specific to your fridge. You can buy a generic one at Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, etc. That's where I get them.

[Caveman_Charlie]

enblethen wrote:
Have you cleaned the orifice and burner tube?

I have cleaned the burner tube. I'm taking it to the repair place on Monday and I will suggest to them to clean the orifice. To do that effectively you have to remove it and some of the line from the back of the fridge. I'm thinking that maybe the orifice got damaged when they put the cooling unit on it because you have to remove it to do that.

[enblethen]

Have you cleaned the orifice and burner tube?