Getting Rid of my Dual Cam system

[Mike_Up]

I really like this system but it's such a darn pain. It's so complex no one, anywhere, has any idea how to adjust it or install it.

I just had it transferred to a new trailer and new bars also werer needed. Backed it up at home to get it in the driveway and bam, broke out the top socket of the head. I've been told here that it was installed/adjusted incorrectly and I believe that.

And now, the dealership is arguing that it was installed correctly. After talking further to them, the dealer doesn't have a clue and I can't believe they got it installed as far as they did.

I really like my Strait Line system but it's just to complex and I'm done with it.

I'm looking at going with either a EQUAL-I-ZER brand or Blue Ox brand. To be honest I really like how easy and simplistic the Blue Ox brand is. What I don't like are the very VERY vague installation instructions and their short 3 year warranty. This is the system my Dealership pushes.

It's not that the Equalizer brand is bad, I just don't like how you have to tear the head apart to get to the washer adjustments and tear down the brackets to adjust them. This system looks nearly as confusing as the Reese Strait Line (HP Dual Cam and WDH).

So is the Blue Ox inferior to the Equalizer Brand or do they both work well???

Here's a big point to me, since I have to back up at extreme angles, how do they do this. I called both makers and they said they hitches wouldn't hit the ball threads/nut when turning but what's your experience.

The Reese Strait Line system has so many binding points it's nuts. I think mine bind on the cam installation bracket, broke the top socket out of the head, the T end of the Trunnion twisted while forcing it's way out of the head, and hit the ball threads. All of this because the dealer refused to adjust the head to a greater angle to get the bars below the cam brackets. They are sticking to their guns saying you can't adjusted the head beyond the threads on the adjustment area, therefore limiting how far back they could tilt the head. They only got 5 chain links from the bar's end to the snap up bracket with a 1200 lbs bar.

So now I'm going to shell out money and hope to install this thing in a timely manner, myself, on an uneven, slanting driveway because no one in my area knows how to install a hitch unless it's a simple WDH with no sway control.

Can you believe the guys at the dealer even said it was my fault for breaking my head because I didn't take out my WDH bars before backing up. :E :E :M Guess I'm suppose to put 900 lbs on a hitch receiver that states only 500 lbs when no WDH is used?!! :M

So Guys can you help me, Equalizer brand or Blue Ox. BTW, both are about the same amount of money and both claim 4 point sway control.

[dodge_guy]

Step back and take a breath! There are thousands of people towing with the Reese DualCam with no issues. The system is not complicated, it just takes a bit to get it dialed in properly. I would not use any other hitch. It sounds like your problem lies with the dealership and not Reese.

[Mike_Up]

The saga continues!!

Only got to take the trailer out once since the dealership fixed the hitch.

It was popping excessively when making turns. I found the problem, the cam arm wasn't flush with the chain tension bracket. This was allowing the trunnion bar to pop back and forth between the gap that the cam arm caused.

No big deal I thought, I'll just straighten the cam arm next spring before taking the camper out.

Well I tried to do that today until I found that the cam arm threads have a channel where the cam bracket has a key slot so that the cam arm can slide straight on.

Now I'm thinking, that this can't be fixed by turned the cam arm and why. So I looked at the cam arm 'frame' bracket. The cam arm 'frame' bracket tab, where the bolt connecting it to the cam bracket, is now BENT! Bent not allowing the cam arm to positioned correctly in alignment with the cam arm 'chain' tension bracket. That's why there's a gap.

I know people swear by this setup, but it's to complicated for 'shop' installs because they are not going to get everything ultra perfect. With this stupid hitch, it must be perfect or something will fail on it. I'm really wishing I would had gone with the Blue Ox setup as I know have 4 holes on each side of the frame because of this stupid Reese Dual Cam sway pro system failing because it wasn't perfectly setup within 1/64".

Unbelieveable! Now I have to get the dealership to replace this, which they'll likely want the system pulled with trailer, into their shop! I simply don't have the time to be screwing with this all the time.

So once again here's my recommendation.

STAY AWAY FROM THE REESE 'STRAIT LINE SYSTEM' OR THE REESE DUAL CAM SWAY PRO SYSTEM!!

[BarneyS]

Mike,
Your install looks pretty good! It looks like you have plenty of clearance at the frame and at the cam arms now so you should not have any rubbing or bending problems

You won't really know if it is adjusted correctly until you get to a level spot where you can pull forward straight ahead for about 100 feet or more to make SURE the truck and trailer are in exactly a straight line with each other. Then you can get out and look to see if the cams are centered on the V of the bars like they should be. Take that large wrench with you as chances are they will not be.

At the same time, you can measure your fender rise in front by unhooking (no trailer), measuring, then re-hooking back up and measuring again. Draw up the WD bars.
If the front of the truck is not back to it's non-hooked up measurement or slightly above, then you need to tighten up the chains. If it is below (unlikely) the non-hooked up measurement then you can loosen the chain a link and measure again. Keep at it until you have the front measurement back to the same as it was when you had the truck without the trailer on it. When you have it right, then re-check the cam/V to make sure it is still centered. If not, re-adjust.

No need at all to take it back to the dealer. You have the capability to do this yourself as long as you are willing to put in a little bit of time.
Barney

[Mike_Up]

Well got my HP DC re-adjusted and got my new head and ball. The ball stem is much shorter so I only have about 2 or 3 threads sticking out of the nut. The other ball was a good 1 1/4" sticking out past the nut. So I don't think the ball can be damaged as easily.

The problem is that my driveway is slanted down, but at a mild angle and is old. It's asphault is old and wavy and not at all level. I recommended we go to the local school parking lot but the tech did not want to go. He wanted to set it up here. I don't know if it was a policy thing but I wasn't going to argue since he was installing it.

He adjusted it at the right measurements everywhere.

The issue, which may not be an issue once I'm level, is that I'm at 7 links from the pull up bracket like I should be and right at 12 7/8" from the top of the frame to the top of the cam just as I should be. BUT in my unlevel driveway, it looks like the setup is to high. That is with the truck to high in the back and the camper to high in the front.

Since he wasn't willing to go to a school parking lot, my options (If it is to high) are to bring it down to 8 links or take it back to the dealership for readjustement. In fact that was he stated, was to bring it back for better adjustment on a level surface.

He was very friendly and very willing to do the work but I did have to chime in about errors from time to time which was disappointing. He forgot the paint but luckily I had some paint to paint the holes and the new fill in bolt for the hole not be used that is exposed. He was ready to call it good when I noticed the cam section of the spring bar wasn't sitting on the cam properly. Of course he didn't have a wrench large enough for the adjustment nuts. Luckily again I had a channel lock wrench that worked.

I guess I was disappointed in that he forgot the paint, wasn't willing to go to a level site for fine adjustment, and didn't have the right tools.

However I was very glad they they replaced the ball, the head, and sent him 45 minutes from the shop to replace and adjust the hitch.

There are 9 links total and have it set to 7 links. Is it alright to adjust down to 8 links if needed??

Thanks everyone and I am happy with the outcome even if it's not ideal.

Here's the new adjustment.


The extra hole is now filled in with a black painted bolt that you can see when enlarged,click to enlarge
.

Here's the old adjustment, didn't realize I had a pic earlier.

[dodge_guy]

When setup properly the DC cannot be beat!!!

Good luck!

[Fisherguy]

Hopefully they get it setup right this time, good luck.
Will

[JBarca]

Good to hear you have a solution. Thanks for reporting back

[Mike_Up]

OK, dealer got back to me. They are going to replace the head and ball of the trunnion system. Told them not happy with the holes but they are going to paint the one hole that will be covered by the bracket so it doesn't rust, and put a self tapping bolt in the exposed hole to fill it.

Not really happy about the holes but I'm happy I didn't have to fight them at all. I'll give them that for sure. They messed up and are fixing it. They also are going to be coming out to my home (45 minutes away) on a Saturday to replace the head and ball, readjust the cam install bracket, and setup the hitch system.

I have to give the dealer a positive nod as I said, I didn't have to fight them at all. I just had to show them pics of where their install was wrong. Plus they offered to come out to my home to fix.

While many may think you should accept no less, which is true, I've found so many businesses that won't accept responsibility for their actions and won't go to any means to correct it. I'm just very happy about their attitude in correcting the situation.

[Housedad]

It is a 95° inside angle. (85° outside angle) Thanks for catching that.

[Fisherguy]

Housedad wrote:
Absolutely sure.

A part that should be bent 90° and is really bent at 85 degrees or less is a poorly made part.

Okay, so is it 85* or 95*?

[Housedad]

Mike Up wrote:
This has always been a source of confusion. The old style Cam chain brackets, like I have, are straight. The U bolt nuts go to the outside of the bracket and the U bolt loop goes toward the inside so that the chain pulls straight up.

The 'new' style of Cam chain bracket has the top half of the bracket bent towards the A frame. The U bolt is installed with the nuts on the inside of the bracket and the loop of the U bolt towards the outside. This allows the bracket to be installed with the loop on the outside of the bracket and the chains to be pulled straight up.

Previous with the "old" Cam chain bracket I have, people were installing it on the end of the Cam with the loop on the outside, causing the chain to be at angle, being further out at the Cam and being pulled in at the A frame snap up bracket. This caused a lot of stress and broken Snap Up brackets from what I was told.

If you were installing the "old style" Straight Cam chain brackets with the loop to the outside, it would make it appear that the Cams were to far outside of the frame.

Just another source of confusion when installing the Strait Line system. My installer intially had the bracket installed in the wrong orientation also.

This system is just to confusing for most installers who read to little, and work way to fast, to get the job done so that they can make more money. As someone stated, this system is mainly for DIY's that will actually spend the time to read the manual thoroughly and spend the time to make the correct adjustments after they read how to do them correctly.

Even if this is the best low cost system for sway control when 'installed' correctly, I'll never own one again. If I ever change campers, the hitch will be sold. I'll not use it again on another camper nor will I purchase another one.

I'm really hoping the dealer will install the Equal-i-zer or the Blue Ox Sway Pro as a replacement.

Sorry, but I think you misunderstand what I meant by bent bracket


Please see this thread to clarify my point:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26143882.cfm

[Fisherguy]

LITEPHIL wrote:


If you take a piece of square tubing stock,drill a hole and weld it up,it will bow in the direction of the welded area. Better off leaving it alone or putting a bolt with a nut and a couple of flat washers in the holes. Fact

Fact?
I doubt welding a 3/8 hole in a 6" x 1½" box frame is going to cause anything to bend.

[dodge_guy]

The metal is thick enough (I hope!) that the metal will not distort when welded. should be a non-issue.

[LITEPHIL]

Housedad wrote:

LITEPHIL wrote:

Fisherguy wrote:
Mike, if the extra holes are that important to you they should weld up the old ones for you, grind them down and paint the A-Frame.
I still think the Reese is the way to go (with trunnion bars though)

Welding up the holes would more than likeley distort the frame in that area. I still think he should just get the Reese system dialed in. Its a really nice set up and really isn't that hard to set up.

Welding up holes on tubular trailer frames is done all the time.

If you take a piece of square tubing stock,drill a hole and weld it up,it will bow in the direction of the welded area. Better off leaving it alone or putting a bolt with a nut and a couple of flat washers in the holes. Fact