GM Integrated Brake Controller
Hi All - I reviewed some of the prior posts concerning issues with the GM controller. Save me a little research and tell me what you think. Truck is new (2016 2500 HD). Trailer is 2000 Sunnybr...
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Thanks, and I agree about the controller. I just wish they had a way to silence the "ding ding, ding ding". I may have to seek counseling to stop the dings in my head! The brake circuit fuse blew at one point on the trip. Dings stopped, so did the brakes. I replaced it and it never blew again...
Chasing down low voltage electrical problems is almost impossible when it is intermittent. I called a well known RV dealer on the road to make an appointment to have them find it. The service person "advised" me that they Charge $140.00 an hour labor and there was no guarantee they would find the culprit. Needless to say I would rather put some pennies in a slot machine...My guess is they would have checked those wires going through the axles first. They seem to be the weakest link. Hopefully Dexter is doing something better now?
Knowing what I know now - removing and replacing the axle wires would be the first thing I would do. It is cheap, simple, and in my judgement necessary regardless of failure.
On a positive note, I was very impressed with my new 2016 Duramax with the exhaust brake. We downsized the RV years ago and the Sunnybrook is less than half of what the truck can handle. The exhaust brake performed as advertised, but you still need brakes when you need them!
For those wanting to replace the wires in the axle this is what I did:
Go to Lowes/HD and get a 20' spool of 16 or 18 gauge double stranded lamp cord wire (just like what you see on the lights you plug in). Each axle used 8' of wire. Get a bag of 12" tie wraps. I used about 10 per axle.
Go to the plumbing section and get 3/8" clear tubing. I think it came in a 20' roll.
Go to an auto parts store and get a box or two of 16/18 gauge weatherproof (shrinkable) crimp connectors. You should only need 4, but I messed a couple up...
Disconnect your battery. There "shouldn't" be any juice going to the brakes unless activated, but you may have a different problem.
Measure your axle for the length of the clear tubing. I used the existing exit holes of the wires to be replaced. In my case it was 6'. Cut the tubing to length. Fish the cord wire through the tube, leaving a foot or so on each end. I had a wire fish for this.
Crawl under the trailer and cut the wires from the axles where it connects to the magnet wires. Remove the old axle wire. Strip the ends of the magnet wires while you are down there and crimp on the new connector. Install the tubing along the top side of the axle with tie wraps.
Cut the new wire to the appropriate length, strip and crimp to new connector. Lightly tug to make sure it is secure. Use a heat gun to shrink and seal the new connector. Wrap with electrical tape for extra precaution. Tie wrap the new connection to keep it stable while moving.
Just a shade tree mechanic, so easy on the critiques!
Hope this helps.
Max
Chasing down low voltage electrical problems is almost impossible when it is intermittent. I called a well known RV dealer on the road to make an appointment to have them find it. The service person "advised" me that they Charge $140.00 an hour labor and there was no guarantee they would find the culprit. Needless to say I would rather put some pennies in a slot machine...My guess is they would have checked those wires going through the axles first. They seem to be the weakest link. Hopefully Dexter is doing something better now?
Knowing what I know now - removing and replacing the axle wires would be the first thing I would do. It is cheap, simple, and in my judgement necessary regardless of failure.
On a positive note, I was very impressed with my new 2016 Duramax with the exhaust brake. We downsized the RV years ago and the Sunnybrook is less than half of what the truck can handle. The exhaust brake performed as advertised, but you still need brakes when you need them!
For those wanting to replace the wires in the axle this is what I did:
Go to Lowes/HD and get a 20' spool of 16 or 18 gauge double stranded lamp cord wire (just like what you see on the lights you plug in). Each axle used 8' of wire. Get a bag of 12" tie wraps. I used about 10 per axle.
Go to the plumbing section and get 3/8" clear tubing. I think it came in a 20' roll.
Go to an auto parts store and get a box or two of 16/18 gauge weatherproof (shrinkable) crimp connectors. You should only need 4, but I messed a couple up...
Disconnect your battery. There "shouldn't" be any juice going to the brakes unless activated, but you may have a different problem.
Measure your axle for the length of the clear tubing. I used the existing exit holes of the wires to be replaced. In my case it was 6'. Cut the tubing to length. Fish the cord wire through the tube, leaving a foot or so on each end. I had a wire fish for this.
Crawl under the trailer and cut the wires from the axles where it connects to the magnet wires. Remove the old axle wire. Strip the ends of the magnet wires while you are down there and crimp on the new connector. Install the tubing along the top side of the axle with tie wraps.
Cut the new wire to the appropriate length, strip and crimp to new connector. Lightly tug to make sure it is secure. Use a heat gun to shrink and seal the new connector. Wrap with electrical tape for extra precaution. Tie wrap the new connection to keep it stable while moving.
Just a shade tree mechanic, so easy on the critiques!
Hope this helps.
Max
