grab handle

[salem]

The handle you grab to go up the steps into the trailer is very loose. Two of the screws are coming out. It doesn't do any good to tighten them as they seem to be stripped. Any ideas as to how to tighten them. Someone here said try "lock-tight," but I've never used that and not sure if it would work. Thanks

[salem]

Researching the web it may be just as easy to order a new unit. They come with all the hardware needed and run in the $30.00 - $35.00 range. The rubber on mine is pretty much gone and I have black tape wrapped around it. Time to class up a little.:) Thanks, everyone.

[D_E_Bishop]

Does the wall appear to be solid or is it the common 1/10" and a hollow stud? If it is solid wood stud, any of the fill and reinstall may work. If it is hollow, use a jack rivet with a same size machine screw as the old wood screw, ie; #8 wood or sheet metal, use a 8 - 32 SAE machine screw.

Another trick that is better than toothpicks, is to sharpen a 5/16 birch dowl in a pencil sharpener, but a drill of the same taper and drill out the hole to a good fit, glue in hole and cut off the dowl drill a pilot hole and pilot drill for screw.

)

[salem]

I've removed the screws and find that the match trick probably won't work as there is not enough fiberglass for them to secure to. Maybe 1/8" - 1/4" thick. That wire around the screw sounds interesting. I may give that a try. On a positive note, the screws were not rusty. Thank goodness. If using a bigger screw as someone suggested, will it possibly cause the fiberglass to crack, or will it just expand like wood does? Thanks again. Oh, when I removed the screws pieces of plastic came out, so apparently it originally had some kind of plastic anchors.

[myredracer]

Not that it matters much, but your fiber-glass Starwood looks to have a fold-out handle as standard?

It could also be that you need to angle the screws a bit towards the door frame where there will be a stud. You might even be able to notch the plastic bracket (that screws to the wall) to be able to move it closer to the door frame. I had to do that on a previous TT when retrofitting a larger handle.

If relocating the screw locations, use a pilot drill bit, esp. if the framing is aluminum. Wrap a piece of tape on the drill bit so you don't go too far.

[Grit_dog]

Lynnmor wrote:
The stud might be aluminum tubing, check before using wood and wood glue. Matchsticks will only work on wood studs.

True. In that case, larger screw is the easy answer.
A variation to the match stick that works good too is stranded elect wire. Leave insulation on it. Same principle.
Or the fill with glue, epoxy etc. let it set up and re drill new holes. Again only for wood

[salem]

Thanks guys. Lot's of things to try now.

[SidecarFlip]

jplante4 wrote:
If the screws are rusty then you have water in there and the wood is rotting. All the matchsticks in the world won't help. You need Git-Rot.

Price is steadily going up. Last time I bought a package from West Marine for a job, it' was 45 bucks. It does work but it's expensive.

[wa8yxm]

I fully agree. Thread lockers no joy. Larger screw might work.

There are several products designed to work in a Hollow wall that might help.
Worst case repair takes careful measurement.. But here it is

Get a couple of metal plates roughly the same size as the "Footprint" of the mounts for the grab bar

DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH (Careful if you have a lighted handle you don't drill the wires)
also drill the plates (Same pattern as the mounts.. Three options here

1 Drill and tap I like this, (Thread locker will work on the threads here) and screw a screw into the plate from outside.. then cut off the excess bolt.

2: Reverse that. Drill to pass the bolt. then put a nut on the outside (Threadlocker works or use Nylock nuts) and cut off excess (Dremel)

3: Reverse 2: Drill to pass and use a nut on the inside.

NO way is that going to pull out. though it may still be loose it wont' pull out without leaving one heck of a hole in ye old wall.

On one more very labor intensive and expensive (usually) method I just used elsewhere.

Cut an opening. Slip some nice 2" plank (only a few inches) in there and slide it back and forth so it's well behind solid wall. Glass over it (Fiberglass body filler) paint, re-drill and sink those bolts into SOLID wood instead of the cheap thing stuff the wall is made of.

But that is a whole lot of work (normally.. In my case it was not the grab handle but something else and it was the only way to do it. also due to the size and shape the device bolted on covers the repair so no painting was needed. PAINT 60 dollars last time I bought some. That is JUST the paint.

[jplante4]

If the screws are rusty then you have water in there and the wood is rotting. All the matchsticks in the world won't help. You need Git-Rot.

[Gonzo42]

On mine, the screws on the back side needed tightening, not the front ones.

[Lynnmor]

The stud might be aluminum tubing, check before using wood and wood glue. Matchsticks will only work on wood studs.

[TNGW1500SE]

Remove handle. Shoot liquid nailes in the hole filling it. Let dry. Reinstall.

[rockhillmanor]

kerrlakeRoo wrote:
A couple of small pieces of wood (matchstick sized) inserted into the hole with a couple drops of Elmer's glue on them, then put the screws back in and tighten. Try not to use the handle overnight.
Should be good the next morning.

X10

^^ THIS is the answer!
Buy a box of those long stick matches they are the just the right size for the job.

I've tried everything else and none of them work like the match stick method.

Use Elmer's 'Wood Glue' on the match stick. The screw wraps around the wood the glue makes a tight bond and and that screw won't wiggle ever again!! :B

[salem]

I've used that matchsticks/glue idea before on different things in the rig. Didn't even think of it for this. I'll give that a try since I have everything available. If it doesn't work I'll try the other suggestions. Thanks to you all.