Help with adding Dual Cam

Hondavalk wrote:
When I installed my DC a few years ago the easiest position for my snap up brackets was 1" off center. I called Cequent asking if that would matter and they told me that 1" was not acceptable.

Mine are close to 2" and have been that way for 11 years and well over 25k miles!

When I installed my DC a few years ago the easiest position for my snap up brackets was 1" off center. I called Cequent asking if that would matter and they told me that 1" was not acceptable.

If you have bent parts, definitely replace them. It does really seem that the hitch (from the vehicle) is running up at an angle keeping the ball mount from tilting enough back to angle the bars down. Is the tow vehicle and the trailer all on a flat surface? Ideally you are on level ground but for certain the surface under the vehicle and trailer needs to be pretty close to a straight line. If the surface causes the front of the vehicle to be downhill, that could be part of the problem as well.

I also agree you need to double check the mounting position of the DC brackets. That won't fix the loose bar issue. Getting the head tilted back to put pressure on the bars is the fix for that. Ideally the chains are straight up and down, but perfect is not critical. The more off of vertical they are, the more force they put on the DC brackets however as they have to counteract the force of the crooked chains. Yours are far from straight, I'd move them to get the chains straight once you fix the tilt issue.

Good luck.

In case you don't have, here is the manual for the later (black) DualCam:

http://www.hitchpro.net/application/support/instructions/n26002.pdf

Good info, esp when using the round bar style. Different distance for bracket than the trunnion style.

With the DC , it doesn't matter if the chains are straight up and down or angled. They don't move like a standard WD hitch. Mine are angled slightly to clear my LP tanks.

Also, before you go drilling holes in the A-frame, read Reese's instructions. They specify a distance from the centerline of the coupler to the cam arm bracket. It looks like you have too many exposed threads and need to move the brackets rearward. Typically with the trailer level, you would set the ball on the TV an inch higher to compensate for squat. The chains need to be vertical or close to it. When you get to that point, it's important to get the cam arms centered exactly on the ends of spring bars and can take a while.

If you haven't ready the sticky on setting up a dual cam WDH yet, now would be the time to do so. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/17730894.cfm

When you do get the Reese dual cam installed and adjusted correctly, it is awesome. Took me one season to get it tweaked right and ended up getting a ball with a 1" rise to optimize it. Don't expect it to work the way you'd expect overnight.

Turns out I'm an idiot and didn't loosen the bottom set screw. Am going to get a new head though, the ball mount is bent pretty bad.

I see that you're in Houston. Go to Master Hitch, and bring along the WDH bars. No need to bring the trailer. My experience with them is that they're honest and will try to help you out without just trying to sell you something.

Maybe these will help

http://reeseproducts.com/support/installation/N66073.pdf

http://reeseproducts.com/support/installation/N26002.pdf

I agree that the ball mount looks bent, the ball is not even with the sway bar ball for example, but it also looks like the tv receiver is angled upwards. Not sure if it's damaged or bent or just the way it mounts but I think that's where the problem lies. Only fix for that is to replace the receiver with one that's level, or get an angled draw bar. You'll never get enough washers to do what you need.