Hitch wobble

[GGeorge]

Not sure if this is exactly what I mean. I am having problems with sloppy pieces. I have a hitch on the RV which goes to a USA made 6" extension, which I have put a 2" double riser on made in the USA. They fit tight with some slop (movement side to side and up and down), then on the top of the 2" riser I have a made in china, bike rack, and the bottom hole is a made in USA (roadmaster) hitch for the TOAD. That also has slop.

So.... I invested in those U-Bolts to prevent hitch wobble from CW @ $28 a pop. (I need 5). They are 3/8 inch and can not be tighten enough to stop the wobble. So....

NOW WHAT? Should I weld the mess together, which will make it to heavy to lift? Do I weld sections together? Or just let it wobble?

Crossing WA/CAN border tomorrow, on my way to Alaska, and roads to get worse.

Thanks for your help.

GGeorge

[klutchdust]

If I use an extension or multiple pieces I bolt them together and use nylon lock nuts. Use a good grade of bolt.

[dons2346]

Stick a penny on both sides of the hitch or on top and hammer them in. Easy to remove when you want to take things apart

[FIRE_UP]

TyroneandGladys wrote:
Drill holes in the receiver sections one on top or bottom and one on either side. Then weld a nut over each hole then screw a hex head bolt into the nut and tighten against the inserted section no slop.

You mean like this:



While this type of hitch tightening system does work, it's not a flawless system. In the picture, you see two of them. One is on the top of the receiver and the other, on the side. The receiver is 1/4" thick. I drilled and tapped both holes. Then I installed a nut on the proper size/thread bolt and, inserted them in the threaded holes. I spun the nut down to fairly tight, on both. Then I welded both nuts to the receiver.

Then, I installed a second nut on each bolt. Now, when the slider is in place, the bolt(s) are tightened and, once tight, the second free spinning nut is now tightened against the welded nut. This system works and, makes things fairly tight. But, as stated earlier it's not flawless. What can happen is, based on the torque/weight of the towed vehicle, the forces can actually etch the tips of the bolts into the top and side of the slider.

This can happen in as little as a few hundred miles. When you stop for fuel or, at the end of a days travels, you can actually see the slider move around a small amount, even with a super tight set of lock bolts/set-screws.

Scott

[TyroneandGladys]

Drill holes in the receiver sections one on top or bottom and one on either side. Then weld a nut over each hole then screw a hex head bolt into the nut and tighten against the inserted section no slop.

[rockhillmanor]

DougE wrote:
I have a new approach. Since I have a MIG welder, I ran a couple of strategically placed welds on the insert tubes (top & bottom) and ground them down to the minimum clearance for insertion.

Pretty slick fix!

[DougE]

I have a new approach. Since I have a MIG welder, I ran a couple of strategically placed welds on the insert tubes (top & bottom) and ground them down to the minimum clearance for insertion.

[imgoin4it]

I only have 2 hitch tightners but mine are both rock solid. Got them from Blue Ox when I stopped off at the factory.

[IAMICHABOD]

I have tried almost every Anti Rattle device on the market, most have been no good or so complicated and cumbersome that they are useless. Including the Roadmaster type,totally useless.
Until I found the one at Hitch Rider,another vote for the Hitch Vice

Their Hitch Vice is the best and easiest one I have come across and it really works.