Lessons learned with RV-ing to date (2017)

[ctilsie242]

I have a few lessons I've learned in RV-ing. I'm not a full-timer, but I do part-time from January to about now, then put my rig into storage.

First, if you can, especially here in Texas, find covered storage. RV covers are not worth the hassle. This will help everything on your rig big time. Right now, after seven years in the sun, my awning is pretty much shot, most of the small things like door holders, grab handle, and such have crumbled to powder.

Second, consider screens for the furnace, fridge, and water heater. Mud dauber wasps are a menace.

Third, check your converter out. If it is a single stage, chuck it and get a multi-stage "charge wizard" model. Otherwise you will be replacing batteries every season.

Replace the bulbs with LEDs. I spent $20, got 20 bulbs, and each bulb is 1/7 the energy use of the previous incandescent bulbs.

The CH751 locks break easily. You don't have to go Medeco or Abloy, but Amazon has automotive grade keys that are double-sided which keep dirt at bay with a shutter, and work well enough. I might go for the triangular head cams next time, because it provides enough security.

Get a token hitch lock, so a would-be thief sees that the rig is secured. Then, secure the wheels with a wheel boot or a simple chain through the pair. After getting permission from the owner where I store my trailer, I sunk an anchor into the ground under my trailer, and have the trailer wheels chained to that. A thief might cause damage, but it would be less damage than if the thing was stolen and it was turned into a "kitchen."

Don't even think of a half-ton. Buy a one ton. This mistake I regret constantly since I bought my truck a few years back.

OEM factory trailer brake controllers are a must. The Ford ones are nice because they will handle trailer sway.

Those 2000 watt Hondas are worth it. Buy a pair with an extended run tank, and a security handle bracket.

Even in Texas, get a "four seasons" rig, if possible.

Get a Cheap Heat system if you can.

This goes without saying, but get a good rechargeable drill. This will be very useful with manual jacks.


Apologies for the ramble, but I wouldn't have realized these things when first starting.

[GaryS1953]

Are LED's just a simple swap of the incandescent for the LED replacement or is there more to it? What LED's replace the standard bulbs found in most TT's?

Your incandescent bulbs will have a number on the packaging, mine are 1141. All you do is look for 1141 (replace with your number) compatible LED bulbs. Amazon is the perfect source.

[nadkaw1957]

Lantley wrote:

However the reality is too many times 1/2 tons are purchased that aren't up to the task. Often there is a lack of research or a failure to comprehend the towing parameters.

Agreed. I bought the trailer based on the capability of my truck at the time, I bought subesquent trucks based on the trailer. Research is the key.

[Ron3rd]

ctilsie242 wrote:
I have a few lessons I've learned in RV-ing. I'm not a full-timer, but I do part-time from January to about now, then put my rig into storage.

First, if you can, especially here in Texas, find covered storage. RV covers are not worth the hassle. This will help everything on your rig big time. Right now, after seven years in the sun, my awning is pretty much shot, most of the small things like door holders, grab handle, and such have crumbled to powder.

Second, consider screens for the furnace, fridge, and water heater. Mud dauber wasps are a menace.

Third, check your converter out. If it is a single stage, chuck it and get a multi-stage "charge wizard" model. Otherwise you will be replacing batteries every season.

Replace the bulbs with LEDs. I spent $20, got 20 bulbs, and each bulb is 1/7 the energy use of the previous incandescent bulbs.

The CH751 locks break easily. You don't have to go Medeco or Abloy, but Amazon has automotive grade keys that are double-sided which keep dirt at bay with a shutter, and work well enough. I might go for the triangular head cams next time, because it provides enough security.

Get a token hitch lock, so a would-be thief sees that the rig is secured. Then, secure the wheels with a wheel boot or a simple chain through the pair. After getting permission from the owner where I store my trailer, I sunk an anchor into the ground under my trailer, and have the trailer wheels chained to that. A thief might cause damage, but it would be less damage than if the thing was stolen and it was turned into a "kitchen."

Don't even think of a half-ton. Buy a one ton. This mistake I regret constantly since I bought my truck a few years back.

OEM factory trailer brake controllers are a must. The Ford ones are nice because they will handle trailer sway.

Those 2000 watt Hondas are worth it. Buy a pair with an extended run tank, and a security handle bracket.

Even in Texas, get a "four seasons" rig, if possible.

Get a Cheap Heat system if you can.

This goes without saying, but get a good rechargeable drill. This will be very useful with manual jacks.


Apologies for the ramble, but I wouldn't have realized these things when first starting.

I've only been doing this for about 14 years, but those are wise words.

[Lantley]

nadkaw1957 wrote:
"Don't even think of a half-ton. Buy a one ton. This mistake I regret constantly since I bought my truck a few years back."

I'm probably asking for a hail-storm of critical comments, but I do take exception to the half-ton "lesson". I tow a 25 footer that weighs in at 6K fully loaded. I've towed it with a Tundra and two Hemi half-tons. I currently drive a RAM 1500 EcoDiesel and have never had any trouble towing in the Sierra Nevada mountains and winds of Washoe Valley. My truck is a daily driver, getting 22mpg in town and nearly 30 on the highway. I can't imagine driving a one-ton, or even a 3/4 ton every day, getting 10-12mpg in town.

The decision has to be based on your TV's towing capability and your TT's weight and configuration as well as your driving situation. For some, a half-ton would never do. For others, the pairing of a light(er) trailer and a capable half-ton works just fine.

Let the hail-storm begin...

I don't disagree in theory that 1/2 tons can tow the correct trailer.
However the reality is too many times 1/2 tons are purchased that aren't up to the task. Often there is a lack of research or a failure to comprehend the towing parameters. The net result is the consumer ends up upgrading to a 3/4 ton truck.
The real irony is that money is not the issue, research and understanding the parameters would avoid a lot of heartache.
As the OP pointed out eventually it all gets sorted out after a few poor towing experiences.
In the end it always cost more to get it right the 2nd time around.

[KillerIsMe]

ctilsie242 wrote:

Get a token hitch lock, so a would-be thief sees that the rig is secured. Then, secure the wheels with a wheel boot or a simple chain through the pair. After getting permission from the owner where I store my trailer, I sunk an anchor into the ground under my trailer, and have the trailer wheels chained to that. A thief might cause damage, but it would be less damage than if the thing was stolen and it was turned into a "kitchen."

Again, I hear you brother. I bought an old anchor from a WWI dreadnaught, and my brother, who works for Chesapeake, came out with some of his co-workers and put up one of those gas well towers. They drilled down about a mile and sank the anchor and we chained the Jay Feather to it, but **** if somebody didn't turn my Feather into a kitchen after all. Can't trust these Pennsylvania yahoos.

[KillerIsMe]

ctilsie242 wrote:

Don't even think of a half-ton. Buy a one ton. This mistake I regret constantly since I bought my truck a few years back.

I hear you brother. I bought myself an old Penn Central locomotive back in Altoona, where I'm from. Fitted it with tires - LT, not them stinking passenger tires - and inflate them to the max. PAST the max actually. Have a Jay Feather and the old GP38 pulls her well - little sway when the big rigs pass, but nothing white knuckle. Never go back to a 1/2 ton.

[mgirardo]

ctilsie242 wrote:
I have a few lessons I've learned in RV-ing. I'm not a full-timer, but I do part-time from January to about now, then put my rig into storage.

Get a token hitch lock, so a would-be thief sees that the rig is secured. Then, secure the wheels with a wheel boot or a simple chain through the pair. After getting permission from the owner where I store my trailer, I sunk an anchor into the ground under my trailer, and have the trailer wheels chained to that. A thief might cause damage, but it would be less damage than if the thing was stolen and it was turned into a "kitchen."

Where do you store your camper that you have to secure it like that? I certainly wouldn't store my camper there if I had to boot the tires or anchor the camper to the ground.

-Michael

[nadkaw1957]

"Don't even think of a half-ton. Buy a one ton. This mistake I regret constantly since I bought my truck a few years back."

I'm probably asking for a hail-storm of critical comments, but I do take exception to the half-ton "lesson". I tow a 25 footer that weighs in at 6K fully loaded. I've towed it with a Tundra and two Hemi half-tons. I currently drive a RAM 1500 EcoDiesel and have never had any trouble towing in the Sierra Nevada mountains and winds of Washoe Valley. My truck is a daily driver, getting 22mpg in town and nearly 30 on the highway. I can't imagine driving a one-ton, or even a 3/4 ton every day, getting 10-12mpg in town.

The decision has to be based on your TV's towing capability and your TT's weight and configuration as well as your driving situation. For some, a half-ton would never do. For others, the pairing of a light(er) trailer and a capable half-ton works just fine.

Let the hail-storm begin...

[NYCgrrl]

Lessons learned with RV-ing to date (2017)

...not all vehicles can tow...

[WillyB]

When I ordered mine from Hong Kong years ago, they came with multi-adaptors to fit any socket. The actual LED bulbs plug into the adaptor and are 'daylight' type with a yellow tinge. Best investment I ever made and have been trouble free. If I remember right, I just googled LED lights and ordered enough to retrofit the whole trailer and it came to about $20 Canadian including shipping.

[Cecilt]

Campfire Time wrote:

DutchmenSport wrote:
Good advise, but I have no reason to swap out my light bulbs as we are always connected to shore power. Since we are always on shore power, I don't use a generator either (but I do have one).

I used to say the same thing. But the bulbs on our current trailer were crazy hot all the time. We couldn't sit on our couch and have the light over it turned on because it would actually make you sweat. Got LEDs and no more hot bulbs.

Are LED's just a simple swap of the incandescent for the LED replacement or is there more to it? What LED's replace the standard bulbs found in most TT's?

[Campfire_Time]

DutchmenSport wrote:
Good advise, but I have no reason to swap out my light bulbs as we are always connected to shore power. Since we are always on shore power, I don't use a generator either (but I do have one).

I used to say the same thing. But the bulbs on our current trailer were crazy hot all the time. We couldn't sit on our couch and have the light over it turned on because it would actually make you sweat. Got LEDs and no more hot bulbs.

[colliehauler]

DutchmenSport wrote:
Good advise, but I have no reason to swap out my light bulbs as we are always connected to shore power. Since we are always on shore power, I don't use a generator either (but I do have one).

Even on my seasonal that's always connected to shore power I put in leds to get rid of the heat. Another benefit is they take less power so my converter fan does not kick on when lots of lights are used so less noise.

[tomkaren13]

So glad to read all your lessons learned. Some are ones that make thing better i.e. Led lights.

But so very glad to see your remark on the 1/2 truck. This is my biggest concern that so many think their truck can pull anything. (Sales people at fault?)