light weight towing package for woman

I have a Demco alumilite. They said the regular one is about 50 pounds heavier.
I am a woman and though its somewhat heavy I can take the tow bar and rock guard out of the receiver and put it back in alone. Not super easy but I can do it.

wca01 wrote:
The easiest tow bar to connect and disconnect is the Demco. Each tow bar arm is independently mounted. You only need to handle one at the time. Disconnecting is just the reverse, but also only one at the time.

You can completely connect one arm. Then connect the other one. There's almost no weight at all. There's really nothing on the market that offers such easy connecting and disconnecting. I've used most all of them!

Good Luck!
Wil

that sounds to me to be like my Blue Ox Aventa II?
and I thought one of my previous ones was a Demco and it had slip rings to operate it, which I wouldn't buy again.
bumpy

The easiest tow bar to connect and disconnect is the Demco. Each tow bar arm is independently mounted. You only need to handle one at the time. Disconnecting is just the reverse, but also only one at the time.

You can completely connect one arm. Then connect the other one. There's almost no weight at all. There's really nothing on the market that offers such easy connecting and disconnecting. I've used most all of them!

Good Luck!
Wil

dahkota wrote:

F1bNorm wrote:
I think I have the same problem. Because one arm is setting on the ground and the other you're trying to attach is at too great an angle. I have an easy solution. I have a cheap HF tote that has a rigid handle. I set one arm on the tote while attaching the other. Makes it easy. The tote I use for storing the wiring harness, safety cable, spare pins and a pair of work gloves. Before the tote I used a small step stool and then the cardboard box I use for the accessories.

Norm

Thanks Norm! While I don't know what an HF tote is, I think I get the idea. I've tried resting the 'other' arm on my bumper but always manage to knock it off. I will try with a large box I have - it will probably save me quite a few bruises!

Now, if you have a hint for the pin that won't come out...

HF (Harbor Freight), Here's a link: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-tool-tote-61471.html It's soft sided with a rigid frame.

As for the stuck pins. If there is any tension on the bars, the pins are difficult to remove. My routine is to find a level spot to unhitch. Unlatch the arms and let the towd roll forward an inch or so, set the towd brake. The pins should be easy to remove.

For safety, you should either have someone behind the wheel, on the brake or a wheel chock an inch in front of the tire. If you happened to be parked downhill, when you unlock the arms, the towd can jump forward. If parked uphill, even if you unlock the arms the pins will be stuck. Drive or push the towd forward to release the tension. Set the brake!

Put the pins in the BAG! Not on the license plate bracket! Although, I was amazed how far I could drive and the pins did not fall off!

Norm

I use a Ready Brute elite towbar/brake system. It's not the lightest system(just under 50lbs.) but I and many others are very happy with this unit. Without the the brake the bar is 42# which is close to other brands. Not having the best back, I have a routine that minimizes lifting the unit. Using a Harbor Freight cart, I just scoot the bar on and off. It can be bagged and left on the coach. Mine is on and off because I often tow a utilty trailer. This method could be used with any tow system.

The HF tote I referred to in earlier posts is this:http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-tool-tote-61471.html It's a soft bag with a rigid frame.

....

dahkota wrote:

.... If you are off a little bit, it is a struggle to do it alone as the arms are awkward. Being 5'6" tall, my reach isn't as long as others which may cause some of the awkwardness. I think the arms of any tow bar would also be awkward, but I have no experience with them.

I'm 5'3" tall and can still hook up the car even if it is a little bit off. Here's my trick to doing it:

Caveat: If your toad does not have a base plate design that is similar to my Roadmaster Falcon 2, then these instructions aren't for you.

1) drive the toad close enough to the MH so that the tow bar's arms can reach the toad's base plate without having to be fully extended. Getting close enough so that the tow bar arms need only to extend about 1/2 or 3/4 of their travel length is pretty good. At the same time you're trying to align the toad with the tow bar as best you can
2) Go to one side of the tow bar. Lift the arm and extend it. Lay the arm down on the baseplate and/or baseplate cross arm. (this is the step where you would have your spouse/partner hold the tow bar arm in the air while you connect the other toe bar arm to the toad)
3) walk around the toad to the other tow bar arm.
4) Lift the arm and extend it. Be mindful that the other arm is just resting there - and not connected yet. Lifting the arm too quickly or not smoothly could cause the other arm to fall to the ground. If the other arm falls to the ground then you have to go back to step 2.
5) connect the tow bar arm to the toad.
6) walk around the toad to the other tow bar arm that is resting on the baseplate and/or baseplate cross arm, and connect it to the toad.

Do the same when disconnecting the tow bar arms. After disconnecting one arm, rest it on the baseplate and/or baseplate cross arm - and then go disconnect the other tow bar arm. This makes disconnecting the 2nd tow bar arm easier because there is less force acting against the 2nd tow bar arm with the disconnected arm resting on the baseplate and/or baseplate cross arm.

Roadmaster baseplated with cross arm attached between them:

Thank you to everyone for your responses. I am now trying to choose either a Honda fit fir towing or a jeep wrangler. Love off roading but don't think I should try that one alone. The Honda fit weighs almost a thousand pounds less than jeep and is lower to the ground so I can get my kayak on a little easier. But I do love jeeps. My husband always towed a jeep.
However the Jeep accommodates a Hullivator that will lift my 70 pound kayak to the roof. My kayak weighs 70 lbs. I have a Class A 30 foot Ace. Figured that size would be better for me than our 38 footer my husband and I had.
Thanks again to everyone!!!

dahkota wrote:

F1bNorm wrote:
I think I have the same problem. Because one arm is setting on the ground and the other you're trying to attach is at too great an angle. I have an easy solution. I have a cheap HF tote that has a rigid handle. I set one arm on the tote while attaching the other. Makes it easy. The tote I use for storing the wiring harness, safety cable, spare pins and a pair of work gloves. Before the tote I used a small step stool and then the cardboard box I use for the accessories.

Norm

Thanks Norm! While I don't know what an HF tote is, I think I get the idea. I've tried resting the 'other' arm on my bumper but always manage to knock it off. I will try with a large box I have - it will probably save me quite a few bruises!

Now, if you have a hint for the pin that won't come out...

Guessi I am lucky. No problem hooking / unhooking Ready Brute. I usually stand between the 2 legs facing the toad. If needed I rest one arm against my leg and pin the other. I have found one side usually goes in easier. Once you have one side in place and pinned, the other just slides in. Also, I always start out with the legs up off the ground, held by the ring used when in the stored position. This helps when I drive the toad into position. Very easy to judge if I am straight and the right distance from the MH to attach the legs. NEVER pound out the pins with a hammer
BTW, I am a 71 year old solo traveller so I do this without any assistance.

get a tow bar that stays on the motorhome, and has levers to release it, not slip rings. I use an Adventa II but an aluminum one would be better. but once it is mounted on the motorhome, there is less weight to have to lift and move around.
bumpy