Our old TT had a gravity fed inlet for the fresh tank as well as a pressurized inlet for city water. While at my campsite, I was able to add water to the fresh tank from a six gallon jug into the gravity inlet if I needed more after the original fill up. Our new 5er (five trips under our belt) has only one inlet that can be switched via valves for filling the fresh water tank or using city water. Pouring from a jug is now not an option. Obviously, I can’t add sanitizing bleach to the fresh tank with the old method either. I never realized this until I was talking with a tech at my dealership. Regarding sanitation (I do this at home), the tech did tell me to pour the proper amount of bleach into my fresh water hose with a funnel then fill the tank normally from a water spigot. The pressurized water will then force the bleach from the hose into the tank. Different, but easy enough. As for adding to the tank while at a campsite; is using a small pump the only option? Does a pump provide enough pressurization to work in this scenario? We are pretty good at conserving water and the most we stay at a site without water is four days but I want to be prepared to add water if I need it. I definitely don’t want to have to break camp to take the 5er to fill up.

Bob, I do not know your specific coach, but as a general statement, almost any pump will be able to deliver water to the potable tank from the city water connection. All that extra valve does is to by-pass the pump and (typical) check valve part of the system and go right to the tank.Matt

How do you winterize your 5th wheel? Most have a hose attached near the pump that will draw the antifreeze into the system. I have used the same hose inserted into a five gallon bucket to draw water and pump it into the tank. The trick is figuring out the settings for the valves to get it to pump into the tank.

Mine has another new inlet that I’ve never had before! There is an inlet labeled “winterization” right by the water inlet and valves and it bypasses everything to go right into the system via the on board water pump.

Matt_Colie wrote:Bob, I do not know your specific coach, but as a general statement, almost any pump will be able to deliver water to the potable tank from the city water connection. All that extra valve does is to by-pass the pump and (typical) check valve part of the system and go right to the tank.MattGood to know Matt. Thanks for the tip. I’m seeing pumps around 35 PSI to 65 PSI that should work well for this process

bsbeedub wrote:Matt_Colie wrote:Bob, I do not know your specific coach, but as a general statement, almost any pump will be able to deliver water to the potable tank from the city water connection. All that extra valve does is to by-pass the pump and (typical) check valve part of the system and go right to the tank.MattGood to know Matt. Thanks for the tip. I’m seeing pumps around 35 PSI to 65 PSI that should work well for this processA bucket to draw water from is also needed.

New 5er, fresh water | Good Sam Community

kellem
Explorer
Jul 26, 2021
My sister recently bought a new trailer with these valves and has battled them all summer......looks like a cockpit on an airplane.
I imagine once procedure is learned things may simplify.
Nodaker
Explorer
Jul 26, 2021
There should be a setting in the valves that will let the onboard water pump suck water from a bucket (or jug) into the system for winterizing. There then may be another setting that will suck the water into the fresh water tank - that setting would be used to draw water mixed with bleach into the tank for a full sanitizing of the system. That setting can be used to replenish the tank from a bucket.

I can't believe the tech you talked to in the original post didn't know how set the valves!
Grit_dog
Navigator
Jul 23, 2021
If you’re not opposed to spending a few bucks for convenience, get a ballast bag and pump for a wakeboard boat.
Couple garden hose adapters will allow you to fill from any spigot with a hose connection and 12V fit lighter ballast pump will empty a 40-50 gal sack in about 2 minutes.
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Jul 23, 2021
bsbeedub wrote:
The winterizing inlet bypasses the fresh tank as well. This assures that the anti freeze goes into the water lines only and does not pump excess anti freeze into the tank.
The connection is on the suction side of the pump and the pump output does not go to the fresh water tank.

I add bleach, fill the water tank, then purge the water lines so that they get sanitized.

If you sanitize the hot water then drain it and the fresh water tank, refill and purge everything with fresh water.

Alternate: We use a reasonable amount of treated city/utility water in our travels and hence have very rarely sanitized.
bsbeedub
Explorer
Jul 23, 2021
mobeewan wrote:
Use the winterizing connection. Connect a hose to it. Drop the hose in a jug or bucket of water and pump it into the FW tank. When sanitizing add bleach to the jug or bucket. Make sure to set the valves in the wet bay to the proper positions.

The winterizing inlet bypasses the fresh tank as well. This assures that the anti freeze goes into the water lines only and does not pump excess anti freeze into the tank.
ReneeG
Explorer
Jul 23, 2021
bsbeedub wrote:
ReneeG wrote:
If you can use a funnel to put bleach in your tank, why can't you use a funnel to put fresh water in from a bucket?

The bleach is not just added with a funnel. As explained in my original post, the bleach is added to my fresh water hose with a funnel. The hose is then connected to a water spigot which is pressurized from my house and the water forces the bleach from the hose to the fresh tank.
It’s my understanding that just trying to pour water into the inlet on the trailer does not have sufficient pressure to flow into the tank. Many new trailers ( including mine) have no gravity fill inlet. That is why an external pump is needed to fill it if there is no city water connection.

Thanks for the explanation.
mobeewan
Explorer
Jul 23, 2021
Use the winterizing connection. Connect a hose to it. Drop the hose in a jug or bucket of water and pump it into the FW tank. When sanitizing add bleach to the jug or bucket. Make sure to set the valves in the wet bay to the proper positions.
bsbeedub
Explorer
Jul 22, 2021
ReneeG wrote:
If you can use a funnel to put bleach in your tank, why can't you use a funnel to put fresh water in from a bucket?

The bleach is not just added with a funnel. As explained in my original post, the bleach is added to my fresh water hose with a funnel. The hose is then connected to a water spigot which is pressurized from my house and the water forces the bleach from the hose to the fresh tank.
It’s my understanding that just trying to pour water into the inlet on the trailer does not have sufficient pressure to flow into the tank. Many new trailers ( including mine) have no gravity fill inlet. That is why an external pump is needed to fill it if there is no city water connection.
theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Jul 22, 2021
Get a large funnel and a short length (3') length of garden hose or a piece of 5/8" or 3/4" vinyl hose. Put a male hose end on one end. Put the other end of the hose on the funnel.

This is now a 2cperson operation, but you can full from an external jug.
way2roll
Navigator II
Jul 22, 2021
ReneeG wrote:
If you can use a funnel to put bleach in your tank, why can't you use a funnel to put fresh water in from a bucket?

Putting bleach in the hose doesn't require a shorter or different hose. Using a funnel to add water would mean making up a small hose to connect to the FW and cutting the hose off to attach the funnel. Certainly could be done but it's a little different. That said, with that method you could easily add bleach to the bucket, but you are confined to adding only a few gals at a time and having to hold it while you pour. Long and laborious process compared to using the onboard pump or using a separate pump.

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