Newb question regarding max towing, GCWR, and WDH

[dmoney316]

So, we're new to the game, but much like everything else i do, i go all out. We went from tents to a 2009 Trail Sport TSE191. I just got my 2017 Nissan Pathfinder SL with factory Class III Tow Package. Now from what everyone is telling me i should be fine. I have a GVWR of 5981 lbs for the TSE191, and i can pull 6000# right???Seems right to me, especially considering i can't imagine filling the camper with almost 3000# (it has a dry weight of 3090#)

Nissan user guides says the following.

A weight-distributing hitch system (Class IV) is
recommended if you plan to tow trailers with a
maximum weight over 5,000 lbs (2,268 kg).

My buddy says ireally shouldn't need the WDH, but the guy i got it from says I really should get it and he'll even set it up for me.

So, considering i CAN fill my camper up to go over that limit, do i need the WDH? I can't even see myself filling it with 1500# of stuff let alone 2000#..

Also, Nissan has given a GCWR of 10,000#. The problem there is that the truck without any payload is over 4500# Figure at least 500 more for passengers and cargo, so we're at 5000#. If i do decide to go after my 6000# towing capacity they say i can handle, that's over 11,000#, well above the 10,000# rating they give me.

Sorry for the newb questions, but i just want to be safe, and if getting the WDH means i won't have any problems then i am ok with that, but t seems to me that i may be over my head a bit here.

TIA

[bikendan]

dmoney316 wrote:
I don't plan on filling the water, and probably won't have a battery either since everywhere we go we have power

In the US, a battery is required, by law, on towables that have electric brakes. This is so the emergency breakaway switch has power to stop the trailer in case is separates from the tow vehicle.

I would assume that Canada has the same law.

[westend]

You will need a battery and one that operates correctly, even if plugged into power at a campground. Your battery provides power for the emergency break-away brake system, should it be needed.

[wireman]

Pay attention to the RAWR (rear axle weight rating)of your vehicle. It's on the door sticker.

Load your vehicle as if you were going camping, full of fuel, passengers, cargo.

Go to a scale and weigh your vehicle, front axle, rear axle and total weight.

That will determine how much capacity you have left for the rear axle. Adding your tongue weight, weight of the WDH, directly impacts the RAWR.

The scale is your friend and no reason to guess that way.

[mkirsch]

Rather to send you to yet another website with more confusing/conflicting information, or telling you to "weigh it" (How can you weigh it without buying it first, and if you buy it and it's too heavy, then what? Then, you have to tow it to weigh it, but you can't tow it until you have it weighed, so now what do you do?)...

First thing you need to do is figure out the tow rating for YOUR vehicle. Is that 6000lb rating for YOUR vehicle, or the "if properly equipped" vehicle? Manufacturers like to pump up their products by advertising the maximum capacities even if they conflict with each other, or require special equipment.

Your vehicle's tow rating will be in the manual. Somewhere in the middle of the manual there is a section on towing, which will have charts that you can use to figure out the tow rating based on what engine, what axle ratio, what body type, what tow package, and what trim level you have.

If your actual tow rating is anywhere near that 6000lb mark, you should be just fine with the trailer you've chosen as long as the weights for the trailer are anywhere near accurate. That trailer should load out somewhere in the 4500-4800lb range, with a tongue weight around 600lbs. That should be well within the ratings of your vehicle if what you've said so far is correct.

With a 600lb tongue weight you will need a weight-distributing hitch. That is right at the limit of a class III receiver's weight-carrying rating, but more importantly, it will pull a lot of weight off your vehicle's front wheels, causing handling and braking issues. The primary purpose of a weight distributing hitch is to return that weight to the front wheels so your vehicle handles and stops properly.

[troubledwaters]

All I did was answer your question about the WDH. Cause there ain't nowhere near enough information in your post to determine whether or not you can tow the TT within your Nissan's ratings. Try this site to get a better understanding of what you can tow. clicky

[dmoney316]

Thanks for the help guys. I don't mind getting he WDH, but with everything I was reading I was starting to get worried that I wouldn't be able to tow this camper with my truck period, regardless of WDH or not. If you're saying I'm good with the WDH then I am perfectly happy to get it and have a nice smooth ride. Is there anything else I need to be aware of in terms of being near the weight limits? I figured since most of my stuff would be in the trailer, we wouldn't be stocking up the car with too much. Family weighs under 500# and no pets will be joining us. I don't plan on filling the water, and probably won't have a battery either since everywhere we go we have power

I plan on getting the Pro Series WDH kit listed here, as it falls under the compatible ones for my SUV.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/PS49902.html

I found one locally at a great price so I'm going to grab it this weekend.

[troubledwaters]

Yes you need a WDH, plain and simple. If you were towing with a F350 maybe not, but your vehicle, yes you do.

[handye9]

Some of what is confusing you, is in the fine print. Nissan says your vehicle has max tow capacity of 6000 lbs. It can, as long as there are no passengers, aftermarket accessories, or cargo. That's not how people go camping.

When you add weight with people and cargo (a weight distributing hitch counts 80 - 100 lbs against cargo weight), that 6000 lb max tow weight, along with your available payload are going down, pound for pound. The trailer tongue weight, also counts as cargo weight.

Look at your tire and loading sticker (on drivers door post). It will have a number for max occupant / cargo weight. That is the amount of weight the vehicle was rated to carry (as it left the factory). Any weight (accessories, people, cargo) added to the vehicle from that point, reduces the available payload and max tow capacity.

When you hang a WD hitch and tongue weight on the rear of the vehicle, it adds weight to the rear axle and takes weight off the front axle (like a see saw). The primary purpose of the WD hitch, is to use leveraging to restore some, or all of that lost weight on your front axle.

Too much weight lost on the front axle, can cause unstable steering and trailer sway. Your owners manual should tell you a percentage of front axle weight restoration that is recommended.

Your user guide is saying, you don't need WDH if the trailer's loaded weight is under 5000 lbs. You're on the edge, your call. The class IV hitch, mentioned in your user guide, is not the WDH itself. It is a heavier duty frame mounted hitch, on the tow vehicle. The WDH mounts into the class IV hitch receiver.

[horton333]

The spec I looked up says 381# dry hitch weight, but in reality with battery and propane and whatever you are looking more like 500# and the wheelbase and the weight of a Pathfinder are not enough to balance that out. Therefore you *do* want a weight distributing hitch, it's not just the hitch capacity mainly it's the unloading of the front wheels that will make the steering very light and exaggerate the trailer motion in wind or when a truck overtakes. A WD hitch is simpler to use than it may first appear. The trailer is short enough you probably don't need sway control, but it's also worth considering depending on how comfortable you are with a bit of motion and it's going to half be there with the WD hitch anyway.
Happy trails.

[MFL]

Many full size 1/2 ton trucks have a receiver hitch rated to just 500 lbs, with no WDH. Your Pathfinder hitch should be labeled, as to wt, with and without WDH. Another # you need to look at is the payload sticker on your door jam. It is the tire loading sticker that says weight of all occupants, gear, yes hitch wt, etc shall not exceed XXXX.

I think you will need a WDH, with sway control. You need to weigh your vehicle camp ready, people, pets, gear, and full fuel, and subtract that number from Pathfinders GVWR. Do you have enough left for the tongue wt of a 5K loaded trailer at 12-13 percent? It may be about 650 lbs, plus near another 100#s for WDH.

Last thought, the 6K tow capacity does not refer to a high walled TT, which can make the tail wag the dog, especially with no WDH/sway control.

Jerry

[donn0128]

Get the SUV weighed loaded ready to travel. That includes family, pets, and a full tank of fuel. Subtract that number from the MFGs GVWR number as found on the drivers door post. Now, take the trailers GVWR and using 12% of that number. Is this over or under your available payload number? My guess your going to be over.

[dmoney316]

thanks. I know the numbers i posted are all over the place, and that's what troubles me. Nothing seems to add up. My problem is that i don't have the trailer yet, and can only go by the numbers that Nissan gives me, and what the trailer manufacturer gives me. Worst case can i go pick up the trailer with just a basic ball hitch and find a weigh station somewhere? Not even sure where to find that in the Montreal area.

Thanks,

[WNYBob]

You have posted numbers all over the place.
"017 Nissan Pathfinder SL with factory Class III Tow Package" - "weight-distributing hitch system (Class IV) is
recommended"

Get every thing weighed. (look up previous posts on weighing your truck answer TT)
then post here again. Everything will get much clearer then.