Not enough links

I have always used the tongue jack for hooking up the bars. I raise it enough I don't even need the cheater bar most of the time. I worked as a farm hand my first year though college. Not long before I was hired my boss had put the cheater bar into his thigh when it kicked back. Took a couple dozen stitches, some staples to close it back up and few years before he was walking without a limp.

Most of us use the tongue jack to assist with getting the WD bars in place. My Reese came with a pipe/cheater bar that absolutely needs to be used on the "snap-up" brackets. They "snap" because there is tension, a lot of it.

Reese recommend 5 links under tension minimum, no max. I have always run 6-7 under tension. You can adjust the angle of the hitch head as well as links under tension to accomplish the desired WD. More angled down/toward rear and fewer links under tension increases WD to TV front axle.

Consult Barney's thread as well as the how a WDH works by Ron Gratz.

Thanks for all your responses. It is a top mount. I was told or read some time ago that the last link shouldn't be used. Never questioned as to why, but I guess I can put that myth to rest since most of you are puzzled over that statement. I'll use the last link to see if there is any difference in the ride with one link less tension. Then, if necessary, see what I can learn about the tilt. I see Barney has a post
about hitching up with videos etc. Need more time to sift through that.
Then again, maybe there is nothing wrong. Just thought that there was too much tension when I used the electric jack to raise the tongue and cheat while attaching the chain link.

carringb wrote:
Why would you not use the last chain link? If you don't its just hanging there. It's not like its going to jump in a provide backup if another breaks.

You beat me too it Bryan. :)

mikeh449 wrote:
instructions state 5 links between latch and bars

That is a good starting point for most people as most trailers that use WD have at least a 6 inch or larger frame and on a top mounted coupler(most common) will result in the bars either being level with the A frame on round bars or slightly slanted down in the case of trunnion style bars.

The 5 links is a minimum amount not maximum. The 5 links are needed for the chain to be able to move forward and backward during turns without the chains pulling the snap-up forward or backwards by crashing into the snap-ups.

A person should use the amount of links necessary under tension to get the bars where they should be. Once that is accomplished, the amount of WD provided can be adjusted by changing the tilt of the hitch head and leaving the number of links under tension alone. There is no problem at all with using the last link in the chain if that is what is needed.

I fully realize that doing it this way will result in a lot more work and time than just grabbing another link but the results in a properly adjusted hitch will be worth the extra effort.
Barney

instructions state 5 links between latch and bars

Our last TT had the bottom mount coupler. In other words it was welded to the bottom part of the tongue as opposed to the top part. For that reason in order to keep the bars level I used the 8th or 9th link. Those that use 5-7 links have the coupler mounted on the top of the tongue. Couple all that with a thru frame style tongue and it made things interesting.

FWIW my couple was 22" high.

To the OP, nothing wrong with using the last link.

Why would you not use the last chain link? If you don't its just hanging there. It's not like its going to jump in a provide backup if another breaks.

top or bottom coupler on trailer

Counting the links from the bar at the bottom up to the top, I'm on the 8th link when I hook onto the holder and have only one link at the end showing (leftover). The tongue on the 22m is higher than what I usually see out there. Can't remember exactly, but around 20" or so.