Painting roof What to use?

[Queens_Carriage]

I know this has been talked about 100000 times. But one last time.Going to scrub roof the best I can then put eternabond tape on all seams then paint the roof ( Tired of the white chalking running down the sides. So Wash, Wipe with assitone, apply tape, then paint roof. Now the big question?? What would you to paint the foof? I was told by one person He used Blackjack 1000, from Lowe's. What would you use? or what did you use? Want to get it right the first time' Just tired of the wite chalking down the sides of the RV.

[free_radical]

Queens Carriage wrote:
I know this has been talked about 100000 times. But one last time.Going to scrub roof the best I can then put eternabond tape on all seams then paint the roof ( Tired of the white chalking running down the sides. So Wash, Wipe with assitone, apply tape, then paint roof. Now the big question?? What would you to paint the foof? I was told by one person He used Blackjack 1000, from Lowe's. What would you use? or what did you use? Want to get it right the first time' Just tired of the wite chalking down the sides of the RV.

I used to paint my roof with marine enamel,,lasted about 3 years,
then needed repainting,,,mind you roof is made of plywood coated with Cold cure epoxy..
Got tired of painting,got 0.020 aluminum sheets and glued those on using
very expensive epoxy adhesive..
Should last longer then any other coating or even EPDM..

[John_Joey]

You know I saw when the thread was first posted and I said "what the heck?" Now I understand, thanks for your update. It has always been my opinion that liquid roof was overkill, now it also looks like it's not a 10-20 year fix either.

IMHO, you got a mess on your hands now. No way to fix that alligator roof without scrapping it off or replacing the whole thing. I paint my older 5'ver with that Heng's stuff. Lasts about 3-5 years then repeat. Not perfect, but seems to work.

Thanks for the update and the pictures. It really helps others when people do that. Two thumbs up.

[BarneyS]

Another update on the roof. After posting this, I went to the manufacturers website and sent them a message via their "contact us" link. A day or two later, I got a phone call from them and then an e-mail indicating they did not know what caused the problem but they are sending me enough product, both primer and final coat, to re-do the entire roof. I was quite surprised and pleased that they would do this. I only asked them if they knew the cause and what the cure would be to stop it.

It seems that this new product is improved and much more durable according to their website. It now requires a primer where the other did not. I will be applying it to my roof this coming weekend and will report on how it went.

I do however want to send an acknowledgement to the manufacturer ProGuard Coatings for their quick response to my message and their willingness to help cure a problem for a customer. Thank you!
Barney

[BarneyS]

After reading a post in the 5th wheel forum about a member painting his roof I want to update this thread with my experience with my roof 5 years later.

My roof now looks very much like his did before he started his painting job. It is cracked and cratered and looks very bad! I am somewhat disappointed in the durability of the Rubber Roof product that I used.

I must admit however that our trailer now sits outside all year long and is exposed to the hot summer sun here in Michigan and then the hot winter sun in Florida for 3 to 5 months every winter. Maybe that is too much exposure for the Rubber Roof product.

I think in the future, should the decision be made to fix the roof again (it does not leak now and never has) I might go with one of the sprayed on products like RV Roof or RV Armor.

Anyway, just thought an update was necessary as I was pretty enthusiastic about the product I used earlier, but not so much now.
Barney

EDIT:
Here is what it looks like now. The lighter white color is still the rubber coating and not the original rubber roof. The darker areas look like the Liquid Roof material had bubbled up from the hot sun or something, but they are hard and do not collapse when pushed on. There are no voids in the coverage though.

I went over the whole roof this morning looking for cracks or places where water could enter but found none. It looks like the Liquid Roof coating, while looking like heck, is still doing its job. (Thank goodness!) Guess you could say I have an alligator skin roof! :W
Barney

[ol_Bombero-JC]

Queens Carriage wrote:


So Wash, Wipe with assitone, apply tape, then paint roof.

~

The wipe = Best laugh of the day!...:B..:B

~

[BarneyS]

No, I left the air conditioner in place as it did not leak and I didn't want to disturb the gasket. I just brushed under it with the paint brush as well as possible. I removed the vent covers for the cutting in but replaced them before painting the roof itself.

I used the entire 5 gallons. Almost one gallon was used for the 'cutting in" around all the vents openings etc. and around the perimeter of the roof. What was left of the gallon I just poured onto the roof and spread it out.

As I mentioned in my post earlier, this was a very easy job except for the up and down the ladder when cutting in around the edges of the roof.

My trailer is about 30 feet long.
Barney

[SuperD]

Barney, looks great! Did you remove the AC, or just brush around and underneath it as much as possible?
Also did you use all 5 gallons? How long is your roof?

[BarneyS]

NAUTIQUE wrote:
Hey Barney,
I know this thread is a little old, but a couple questions if you still check-in...
Did you rough up the eternabond at all before going over with Liquid Roof?
How did you handle long sides of roof - are you able to Liquid Roof over the edges into gutter or is it too runny?

I've had most of my MH roof already Eternabond'd around all vents and front/back caps. I just added long strips along each side over edge and into gutter.
Now getting ready to coat with Liquid Rubber.

Sorry, a little late but may be of some help to others.
No, I did not rough up the Eternabond at all. Just made sure everything was clean as possible.

The Liquid Roof product is very thick and will adhear to vertical surfaces well. After masking in the gutter, I just painted right around the roof edge and down into the gutter to the masking tape. It was no problem at all. I did this as part of my "cutting in" and used a paint brush for the job. It does not "run" on the verticals unless you get it on there too heavy.
Barney

[waynec1957]

JBarca wrote:
Barney,

That is a first class job! :C

Thanks for sharing. I'm going to book mark this one. Sooner or later I'll need to do mine.

John

PS. Haul some of that blue sky back up here. You can bring the palm tree too...

My thoughts exactly

[NAUTIQUE]

Hey Barney,
I know this thread is a little old, but a couple questions if you still check-in...
Did you rough up the eternabond at all before going over with Liquid Roof?
How did you handle long sides of roof - are you able to Liquid Roof over the edges into gutter or is it too runny?

I've had most of my MH roof already Eternabond'd around all vents and front/back caps. I just added long strips along each side over edge and into gutter.
Now getting ready to coat with Liquid Rubber.

[BarneyS]

bigcitypopo wrote:
Barney... Did you pull of all of the self leveling calking and use eternabond on all the little stuff. ie, vents and anteanas and the like? My trailer is aluminum sided. So my end caps are kinda funny. I need to dig up some research. How much was the kit.

I used Eternabond tape several years ago on every seam or penetration on the roof such as front and back caps, air conditioner, vents etc.
I did not remove any of the existing caulk but just cleaned carefully all around and on top of it and then applied the Eternabond tape over it. You can see the tape in the pictures under the liquid roof product.
I purchased the Eternabond tape from Best Materials for around $50 or so. One 50ft roll was just about enough but purchased a 2nd one to have for any emergencies that may come up.

If I remember correctly, the cost of the Liquid Roof kit was around $370 for a 4 gallon pail and a one gallon pail. Could have purchased a 5 gal pail a bit cheaper but was afraid it would be too heavy to lift up on the roof. What I did worked great as the one gallon was used mostly to "cut in" around the perimeter and around all the vents etc.
Hope this helps.:)
Barney

[bigcitypopo]

Barney... Did you pull of all of the self leveling calking and use eternabond on all the little stuff. ie, vents and anteanas and the like? My trailer is aluminum sided. So my end caps are kinda funny. I need to dig up some research. How much was the kit.

[Barry514]

I have seen this on TV but was wondering if anyone has ever used it to seal the seems and things on top of the RV?

https://www.toptvstuff.com/shop/promos/flexsealbrite/?tag=im%7Csm%7Cgo%7Ctp%7Ctm&gclid=CMPYwfKixbUCFQLhQgodK1sA6g

[Barry514]

I have also thought about doing something to my RV roof to avoid doing that yearly maintence and called Rhino Lining here in San Diego and for my 30 MH it would cost me approx. $4300.00. I though that was high but they said they have to take off the rubber roof first so I guess the labor is most of the cost.

[Onesweetvan]

I just ordered this product to put on my 1994 27X. Once its on, it should outlast the trailer or at least my interest in it. Thanks for the pictures, very helpful.