Painting roof What to use?

[Queens_Carriage]

I know this has been talked about 100000 times. But one last time.Going to scrub roof the best I can then put eternabond tape on all seams then paint the roof ( Tired of the white chalking running down the sides. So Wash, Wipe with assitone, apply tape, then paint roof. Now the big question?? What would you to paint the foof? I was told by one person He used Blackjack 1000, from Lowe's. What would you use? or what did you use? Want to get it right the first time' Just tired of the wite chalking down the sides of the RV.

[BarneyS]

Thank you for that info John! :). As usual, a very helpful and informative post from you.

I may just have to pull my camper out from its' spot in Dales campground , make an appointment with a friend that I know down there who does excellent repair work, and tow it down to Ohio sometime in the future. :W

I appreciate the post you just made very much.
When I decide to do my roof again, I will ask them about this product.
Thanks again!
Barney

[JBarca]

BarneyS wrote:


I can no longer recommend this product as it has failed on me twice. Not willing to give it a third chance. I think the next thing is going to be a RV Armor roof or the Hengs product. Oh well, I tried! :R
Barney

Hi Barney,

Bummer on your camper roof....

I'll pass along some info I have been investigating for my project campers and other folks I help along the way.

The RV Armor you linked is a very good product from everything I found. They give you both the product and the labor warranty. They come to you, and they do the work.

The same founder of RV Armor, Lee, has also developed a new DIY roofing product that they will guarantee for 50 years on the product. They have some tech service people and looking for more nation wide in the event someone needs help installing in case the RV owners do not and cannot do it.

This is the product, they market it separate from the RV Armor. https://crazyseal.com/crazy-seal/

I have called them and drilled them on the Crazy Seal to see if it checks all the boxes in place of doing a total reroof. The call was very good and the person I talked with knew her stuff. She has been with them from the development, to now commercialization.

They have 3 types of product that all bind together to create one total membrane. A pumpable caulk, a thicker brushable paste and the thinner top coat for the larger areas. Each for different areas on the roof.

I also learned some other things.

Eternabond. The Crazy Seal will not adhere to Eternabond. The white layer on top is too slick or something and it will not bond long term. You can use the Crazy Seal up to the edge of it, or put their repair tape over the Ebond and then seal over it, or lift up the Ebond and then coat over the area.

I also learned from seeing it myself on a friends roof, that the Dicor acrylic roof coat will not long term bond to Eternabond either. After a few years, it starts flaking off the top of the Eternabond.

Point being, for those of use who have used Eternabond on your roof, you have to use 1 of the 3 methods above to deal the the Ebond on at least 2 different types of roof coatings. Knowing this going in, you can create a work around.

I also quizzed the lady on the gutter rails and roofs that have a large radius wrap around at the edge at the gutter rails. Will the Crazy seal work on vertical surfaces? She stated the paste will work on vertical surfaces and not run down.

The gutter rail is an issue I feel needs to the addressed in a roof reseal. The vinyl screw strip cover is bad news, water gets behind it and rusts the screws out. Over time the more rust comes, water starts wicking in the sides of the camper. This is not a roof membrane problem, but it is a roof system problem.

This is what I am talking about on the gutter rail. This is my
T310SR in my sig back in 2010.





The awning side is worse then the non awning side, but both have the same problem. I have project camper after camper were water rots out the screws and gets into the roof system. I have more ugly pics of this if wanted.

Back in 2010 I create an Ebond treatment for the gutter rails that is still holding perfect today with 303 treatments on the roof. You eliminate the vinyl strip cover, change the screws to either pan head or flat head stainless, and using 4" Ebond, start from the bottom of the gutter and go up over the top onto the roof. There are tricks on how to do that, but it works.






The Ebond will solve the problem at the gutter rails as the newer roof coatings were not out back in 2010. Now, some of the new roof coatings will not bond long term to the Ebond, plus the Ebond is a lot of work and cost. But I still feel the gutter rail needs to be addressed in some fashion for those wanting to keep their camper a long time.

Now insert the Crazy seal paste. Get rid of the vinyl screw cover, change the screws if they are rusted on the threads or heads, then apply the Crazy seal paste from the bottom of the gutter up and over onto the roof. Then come back and seal the top roof area with the thinner coating. It will take a few days to do all this. Note: It is good to change out the hex screws even if they are still good with flat head to pan head. The sharp hex head edge over time start cutting through the E bond.

I am going to help a friend next spring if Covid tames down, to apply the Crazy seal on his big Jayco 5'er. Before then,(over the winter) I was going to build a mockup roof edge section with a gutter rail and prove out I can apply the Crazy Seal to do what I am talking about above. I will make about a 3 to 4ft section of roof edge, gutter, EPDM and all, and prove out the technique.

While I have no seam issues on our 16 year old camper in my sig, the EPDM is getting thinner and I will need a coating in the somewhat near future too. Plus, I may use the Crazy seal on some of my project campers verses doing a reroof.

The Crazy Seal will cost more then Hengs or Dicor acrylic talked about. Again, this comes back to warranty too. The Crazy seal is 50 years on the product, and if you sell the camper, the warranty transfers to the new owner.

In the end, this will come down to time, money and how long you want to keep the camper. At this point, I'm not sure I will ever sell our big Sunline. May buy another camper, but I am too attached to the Sunline.

Hope this helps.

John

[free_radical]

Dont know if it was mentioned but has anyone tried truck Bedliner coating on the roof?

https://besttruckupgrades.com/best-diy-roll-on-bedliners-reviews/

[SuperD]

TeryT wrote:

SuperD wrote:
I used Heng's my last time around, seemed a lot easier than Liquid Roof and was definitely much less cost. Just prepped good, then rolled it on like painting a floor.
I did 3 coats of it with 2 gallons on my 28' coach. Seems to be cooler inside, bonus! One small crack has formed, but will use dicor or eternabond to fix.
I love eternabond, too! Used it for perimeter seams, holding strong many years later.

How long ago did you apply the Heng's?

I applied the Hengs earlier this year. Liquid roof about 5 years ago.

[frankwp]

My fifth wheel is now 11 years old & the roof still looks very good with no cracking or bubbling. But it's not going to last forever & I'll be following this for more info on redoing it. Appreciate the info, folks.

[TeryT]

SuperD wrote:
I used Heng's my last time around, seemed a lot easier than Liquid Roof and was definitely much less cost. Just prepped good, then rolled it on like painting a floor.
I did 3 coats of it with 2 gallons on my 28' coach. Seems to be cooler inside, bonus! One small crack has formed, but will use dicor or eternabond to fix.
I love eternabond, too! Used it for perimeter seams, holding strong many years later.

How long ago did you apply the Heng's?

[TurnThePage]

I too used Heng's EPDM Roof Coating. It's been a couple years now and it still looks great.

I was on the roof yesterday removing snow and breaking ice. The coating withstood my aggressive manhandling with ease.

[SuperD]

I used Heng's my last time around, seemed a lot easier than Liquid Roof and was definitely much less cost. Just prepped good, then rolled it on like painting a floor.
I did 3 coats of it with 2 gallons on my 28' coach. Seems to be cooler inside, bonus! One small crack has formed, but will use dicor or eternabond to fix.
I love eternabond, too! Used it for perimeter seams, holding strong many years later.

[TeryT]

BarneyS wrote:
Well, here is the bad news. Went up on the roof and there are numerous long cracks in the covering. Some of the cracks were a foot long and 1/8 wide. It almost looks like the whole roof is shrinking and pulling apart. As was the case with my "alligator" roof earlier, I don't think it is the rubber that is cracked - just the coating.

I filled many of them with Dicor self leveling caulk and then covered with a strip of Eternabond tape. There were also a couple of spots that had been covered with Eternabond previously and a new crack had developed from the corners of those places.

I can no longer recommend this product as it has failed on me twice. Not willing to give it a third chance. I think the next thing is going to be a RV Armor roof or the Hengs product. Oh well, I tried! :R
Barney

Thanks, Barney, for being faithful to update us on this!! So this was the ProGuard product that failed?

(Moderator edit for comment) Yes, it was that product.

If anybody else has an update on their respective roof coating they've used, it would be greatly appreciated as I feel that mine will need recoating perhaps in the next year.

[BarneyS]

Well, here is the bad news. Went up on the roof and there are numerous long cracks in the covering. Some of the cracks were a foot long and 1/8 wide. It almost looks like the whole roof is shrinking and pulling apart. As was the case with my "alligator" roof earlier, I don't think it is the rubber that is cracked - just the coating.

I filled many of them with Dicor self leveling caulk and then covered with a strip of Eternabond tape. There were also a couple of spots that had been covered with Eternabond previously and a new crack had developed from the corners of those places.

I can no longer recommend this product as it has failed on me twice. Not willing to give it a third chance. I think the next thing is going to be a RV Armor roof or the Hengs product. Oh well, I tried! :R
Barney

[TeryT]

Thanks Barney (glad to hear yer doing well . . .)! I too have read much about Hengs. I might have to give them a call to see if their coating is good for TPO vinyl roofs, as I can find nothing online regarding it.

[BarneyS]

Tery,
I have not been on my roof for the past two years since we quite traveling. It looked pretty good the last time I was up there. As soon as this virus thing is over and the weather improves just a bit I will be going up to our trailer to see how things went through the winter. I'll update this thread as soon as I can with the results.

Based on the things I have read on here, I think I may be tempted to go with the Hengs product if it is necessary next time. It sounds like a reasonable alternative to the labor intensive and expensive product I used last time. Don't really know though until I can get up there and take a look.
Barney

[SuperD]

Teryt I think the Hengs I used was acrylic. I prepped with Tide granual detergent and scrubbed it, rinsed it really good. Hengs is like thick paint vs. The Liquid Rubber which was much messier to apply.

[TeryT]

Thanks for the posts regarding the Hengs Coating product! It's the Rubber Roof product, right? And did you put it over a TPO vinyl roof? I haven't been able to determine if it's recommended on TPO from their website.

Barney - what's the update on your Liquid Roof job? It's been maybe 8 years, right?