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Panel access ideas

wbwood
Explorer
Explorer
To get to my water pump to winterize and dewinterize, I have to access the water pump behind a wooden panel. To remove the panel, I have to take out 2 screws. After doing this over the last few years, it's starting to mess up the wood behind it and not really having much to bite anymore. Anyone have an ideas of any tpe of fasteners that I could use to keep that panel on there and make it easy to access without tearing up the frame behind it?

Thanks in advance.
Brian
2013 Thor Chateau 31L
15 REPLIES 15

westend
Explorer
Explorer
wbwood wrote:
SoundGuy wrote:
westend wrote:
Yeah, but the original design was wrong and an owner will probably suffer the similar wood degeneration problem again.


Wrong? We're talking about a simple piece of paneling that's removed perhaps once in the spring and again once in the fall ... a couple of screws works just fine, no need for anything more complicated or costly. As you say, just my take on it. :W


No...it's removed several times a winter season. We use it periodically in the winter. Not as much as spring, summer and fall. But every time I winterize/dewinterize, it's removed and placed back twice. So during a winter, it could be removed and placed back easily 10 times.


Based on your stated use, I'd recommend the magnet fix wholeheartedly.

Here's how I do it: I buy those inexpensive magnets. You can also get them online through a variety of vendors. I establish where I want the magnets to be located, mark that spot, and drill a hole deep enough to just accommodate the magnet and maybe a little space for the adhesive underneath. I then use a Dowel marking center pin in those holes. I press the door against the cabinet face and the other holes are located. You could also just mark the second set of holes accurately. Drill as before. Mix some epoxy or use a self-mixing syringe of epoxy and place the magnets in the holes so they are flush with the surfaces. Done deal. When removal is needed, slide the door or hatch just a bit and the magnets will release. When done, put the door back on.

I discovered these rare earth magnets from a cabinet maker buddy of mine that had used them with success. You can even press them just inside the holes, fill with veneer or wood filler so they can't be seen. They will still attract enough to meet the purpose.
\Good luck with your hatch. I know that must be a pain to reattach after the business of winterizing. I hope this helps.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

wbwood
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
westend wrote:
Yeah, but the original design was wrong and an owner will probably suffer the similar wood degeneration problem again.


Wrong? We're talking about a simple piece of paneling that's removed perhaps once in the spring and again once in the fall ... a couple of screws works just fine, no need for anything more complicated or costly. As you say, just my take on it. :W


No...it's removed several times a winter season. We use it periodically in the winter. Not as much as spring, summer and fall. But every time I winterize/dewinterize, it's removed and placed back twice. So during a winter, it could be removed and placed back easily 10 times.
Brian
2013 Thor Chateau 31L

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
Yeah, but the original design was wrong and an owner will probably suffer the similar wood degeneration problem again.


Wrong? We're talking about a simple piece of paneling that's removed perhaps once in the spring and again once in the fall ... a couple of screws works just fine, no need for anything more complicated or costly. As you say, just my take on it. :W
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

westend
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
wbwood wrote:
To remove the panel, I have to take out 2 screws. After doing this over the last few years, it's starting to mess up the wood behind it and not really having much to bite anymore.


Same solution I'd always use in this situation - just fill in the hole(s) with wood dowel or in this case a wooden matchstick and a bit of carpenter's glue ... once the glue has set it's no different that screwing into fresh wood. K.I.S.S. :B

Yeah, but the original design was wrong and an owner will probably suffer the similar wood degeneration problem again.

There's more than a few ways to change the original design, some a lot simpler and more effective than looking for the screw driver and not being able to fasten the cover securely again.

My take is that once you try magnets you'll never go back to another system of fastening. Probably, thoughts will wander to where else they can be used.

disc magnets
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
wbwood wrote:
To remove the panel, I have to take out 2 screws. After doing this over the last few years, it's starting to mess up the wood behind it and not really having much to bite anymore.


Same solution I'd always use in this situation - just fill in the hole(s) with wood dowel or in this case a wooden matchstick and a bit of carpenter's glue ... once the glue has set it's no different that screwing into fresh wood. K.I.S.S. :B
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

NanciL
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mine was that way, and I added hinges and a latch.
That compartment is now also used to store items

Jack L
Jack & Nanci

Horizon170
Explorer
Explorer
These are easy to use.Push pins
Marvin

2010 Coachman Freelander 22TB on a
2008 Sprinter/Freightliner chassis
1995 Geo Tracker (Toad)

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Neodymium magnets. I use circular ones that are small. A 3/8" diameter neodymium magnet, 1/8" thick connecting to an opposing magnet in the cabinet face, will hold all but the most heavy doors enduring a lot of jostling. I sometimes just use a magnet and a piece of steel or a steel screw to save on cost. With an application as described, I'd use four magnets, two in the door stiles and two in the cabinet face. I drill the correct diameter shallow hole with a Forstner bit and epoxy the magnets into place.

The magnets allow for a flush fitment and no worry about material getting into Velcro and stuff like that.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

The_real_wild1
Explorer
Explorer
You could also install a t and valve with a section of hose so you don't have to remove the panel. It is what I will be doing next year when it comes out of storage.

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
There are various sorts of friction snaps to hold panels and such in position, as well. These look like a promising option.

Building supply stores also sell pre-made access panels (typically plastic) that are either hinged or have a panel that snaps into a frame.

wbwood
Explorer
Explorer
all great ideas...thanks
Brian
2013 Thor Chateau 31L

dalenoel
Explorer II
Explorer II
Might even hold it in place with velcro.
03 Monaco Neptune 36PBD DP - 18 Focus Toad
Wife, myself, and Oreo the Malshi

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
Magnetic cabinet latches. Just pull the panel off as needed and snap it back in place when done.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
You could use a threaded insert installed the the wood and use a standard or wing-type bolt. Or a stud installed in the insert and a wing nut.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"