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Parking a Class A within 4" of a wooden fence

zonearc
Explorer
Explorer
We're moving to a 32' Class A from our 23' Class C. The longer coach will make parking somewhat difficult on our property. The only way to make it work is to nose it in to the side yard a little (roughly 2'), which is just over 9' wide. This will pull the coach very close to the wooden fence we have. To avoid the possibility of grazing it and shredding paint off the coach, I was wondering if anyone had suggestions of something to do on that side of the wooden fence. While the right answer would be "don't hit it!" , its bound to happen once ... and I'd like to avoid an expense paint job as a course of that.

Thanks for any suggestions you may have!

-Mike
Mike
Troutdale, OR
RV-less but looking.
Interests: 4 Wheeling (Jeeps), Family (2 young boys & married), Traveling
46 REPLIES 46

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just park the dang thing.

You are pulling in forward and fence will be right at your elbow.

Don't 'What if' this to death.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

willi4nd
Explorer
Explorer
I have to back my trailer up the grassy side yard hill, by the house, through the gates and onto a concrete pad in the backyard...I feel your pain.
My wife and son spot for me and we use radios.
New to the RV world and loving every minute of it.
2015 Nissan Frontier 4x4 6 cyl
2015 Trail Runner SLE 22

navegator
Explorer
Explorer
Get some wood posts and place then in the ground along the fence every 4 feet, measure the tire from the concrete to the rim, trim the posts one inch smaller than the tire measure and now place a series of boards from post to post that in essence creates a guide along the fence for the tire to rub against and lets you know where the side limit is, same principle as is used in car washes, guide
rails, the tires are further in from the side of the RV.

Before you install, measure every item that may touch the fence in relation to the tire side wall, steps, exhaust, awning, etc. If done correct you can even park going the other way, backing real careful.

navegator

riven1950
Explorer
Explorer
Put a straight line of 4x6 treated timbers down the side of the fence to create a curb. Give yourself a few inches to spare. Also get a good lookout.

Ps : in our humid climate I would have an issue with moisture on the fence side where the MH will be up against it. May want to paint the fence or use mold resistant coating / stain on it and be sure it is clean before you park that close to it. Kind of like parking close to a tree or bushes that retain moisture.

Homer1
Explorer
Explorer
I am going to take a different approach. If the fence is yours, take it down. Your coach is going to serve as a fence for all practical purposes when you are home. Just sayin.

ccxnola
Explorer
Explorer
Long ago, when I had a similar situation (between a house and a fence) I did some very careful measuring. Then I went to the garden supply store and purchased 4 old railroad ties - usually sold as decoration or retainers. I then again measured with care and placed them on the ground to exactly fit the tires - left and right plus 4 inches. I drove stakes down to prevent them from moving. Then. when I was backing, the tires could only go up against the railroad tie - but not over it. Sure, the tires rub a bit on the wood, but that is lots better than the side of the rig!!
2001 National Tradewinds 7370 mid-entry DP w/CAT 3126b Diesel
Look for the Mardi Gras 'Gators - Laissez le bon temps roulez - Let the good times roll!!

mgirardo
Explorer
Explorer
Why not just remove the fence? If the coach is there and is that close to the fence, what purpose does the fence serve any longer?

Although during the day when you are wide awake, you can probably easily park the MH. However, there will be times when it is dark, it'll be raining, you are just tired of driving, or you just get lazy, that's when you'll hit the fence. Four inches isn't a lot of wiggle room.

-Michael
Michael Girardo
2017 Jayco Jayflight Bungalow 40BHQS Destination Trailer
2009 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS Class C Motorhome (previously owned)
2006 Rockwood Roo 233 Hybrid Travel Trailer (previously owned)
1995 Jayco Eagle 12KB pop-up (previously owned)

accsys
Explorer
Explorer
Boat Fenders may be a way to keep you from hitting the fence but may also allow you to push the fence over if you get to close.
John & Doris
Doris and Robbies Blogs
2017 Cedar Creek Cottage 40 CCK
FMCA F380583, PA, Good Sams

NYCgrrl
Explorer
Explorer
Just a random thought...apply a paint on rubber surface to the fence or glue/nail one on. Just be sure it's not a dark colour that can rub onto the body of your RV. For a paint on product be sure it's rated for vertical and horizontal surfaces.

I'm thinking you might find something of this sort in the roofing department of a hardware store.

WeBeFulltimers
Explorer
Explorer
Maybe you shouldn't make the change. Stay with the one you are capable of handling.
2012 Ford F-350 PSD SRW ** CURT Q24 ** 2018.5 MONTANA 3791RD

Chuck_thehammer
Explorer
Explorer
OFF site parking (storage).. I know costly.. but more room.

wooden curbs.. use several if needed... 4 inches out .. 8 inches out... etc.

my trailer.. must go between house and garage.. 8 inches each side... and parked on 12 inch wide boards... soft grass/earth.. it can be done. going backward.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Unfortunately, if the fence can't be moved, your original "don't hit the fence" is the answer.

Take it slow and maybe have a spotter (positioning the spotter safely needs to be considered since they won't have much space to stand in)

I don't think a curb will help as the overhangs will go over the curb by way more than the extra space you have.

Any way you cut it, if you hit the fence you will likley leave scratches or dents in the MH.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Make sure you measure carefully and include all the little protrusions like furnace vents and cargo bay door hold-opens and clearance lights. Often the published width of a vehicle excludes these things (and legal width limits generally also exclude them provided they're no more than a couple inches). Measured width also generally excludes the projection of the rear view mirrors, so if you're parallel to the fence, you will have trouble using the mirror to guide yourself unless it extends over the fence when unfurled. Also be alert to whether the ground is level; if it's tilted towards the fence, two inches at the ground could be a lot less at the top of the fence (particularly if the fence also isn't perfectly plumb).

Basically, though, it's a matter of going sloooowly and cautiously and preferably having a competent spotter or two to help.

On the positive side, you should soon have no trouble at all positioning yourself within the reach of the gas pumps!

westernrvparkow
Explorer
Explorer
Use some landscape timbers to create a curb. That will help prevent you from drifting. However, the driver's side is right outside your rearview mirror, you really shouldn't have too many problems.

zonearc
Explorer
Explorer
The fence is the border of our driveway on the property so we cannot move it.
The fence would go along the driver's side of the coach so we can get out the other side.
Mike
Troutdale, OR
RV-less but looking.
Interests: 4 Wheeling (Jeeps), Family (2 young boys & married), Traveling