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Pop Rivets

downtheroad
Explorer
Explorer
Any thoughts about using pop rivets to install stuff on the thin walls of RV's...like towel bars, etc,?
Thanks
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."

Arctic Fox 25Y
GMC Duramax
Blue Ox SwayPro
21 REPLIES 21

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
from the post up above

Load Spreading pop Rivet
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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1997 F53 Bounder 36s

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
I mounted towel bars by making little backer plates of thin plywood neatly painted, which look a bit like blank wall plates for electrical boxes. I glued them to the front of the wall (mainly to keep the plate in place while mounting stuff--not a super strong permanent glue), and drilled through both the plate and the wall to use standard plastic wall anchors. The backer plate is intended to do two things: it provides sufficient thickness for the wall anchor to work properly, and it helps to spread out the stresses from the mounting feet of the towel bar and prevent puncturing or tearing the wall material. Time will tell how effective this proves to be, but so far everything is fine and looks decent.

If you can attach to the "studs" or similar framework in the wall, that's by far the best solution.

F1bNorm
Explorer
Explorer
Ivebinconned's post made me think. It's been a while since I've used pop rivets and a standard pop rivet doesn't really work in this application. But there are special rivets - and here is one: http://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/brands/pop/rivets/types/load-spreading-lsrls-rivets
F1BNorm

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
I've found "Molly" style expansion anchors to be very effective in thin paneling. The wide spread legs provide far more holding power than a pop rivet can in that situation. Toggle bolts also work pretty well, but are more problematic if future removal and re-installation might be needed.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

F1bNorm
Explorer
Explorer
The action of squeezing the pop rivet just pushes the wood paneling out of the way. It needs a backing washer to work. Try to find a stud, or go to the edges of the panel. Be wary of hidden wiring or plumbing. Also be careful of sticky back products. I've seen towel hooks etc. tear the top laminate (usually a thin photo paper or plastic) and leave a really ugly scar.

Norm
F1BNorm

ivbinconned
Explorer II
Explorer II
Depends on type. There are some that spread out wide on the hidden side. Only use aluminum. They can be drilled out to remove.
Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek

marly
Explorer
Explorer
Don't.