Questions about Cargo Trailers behind RV
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Oct-16-2017 04:29 PM
RV 26' 14.5k lbs max load, empty weight 11.9k lbs Tow weight from book 3.5k lbs. 4 prong flat pin light wires.
Trailer 2000 10x6x 6 wells cargo totewagon. new axle about 5 years ago. 15x5 wheels, getting new radial tires tomorrow.
Questions: Both units are fairly old, what areas should I inspect/concentrate to make sure the factory numbers still apply. There is some corrosion on the trailer frame, but didn't see any structural issues, just paint coming off. I'll be scraping off these areas and hitting the bare metal with some rustolim spray paint.
Not impressed with the way the tow hitch is welded onto the rv, would it be worth while to get someone to look at it and see where it could be beefed up a little?
Hitch ball mounts are a bit sloppy in the receiver. been looking at some of those quiet hitch type devices. Do they work and are they worth using or mostly a pain to work around?
Best way to secure the trailer when not attached? those hitch locks look interesting assuming they're not to cheaply made and come off with a crow bar. I can just see us leaving it at a campground to save our spot while we're exploring the area only to come back and have someone move it and take over our spot.
Suggestions on how to clean the fiberglass sky lights? There's some black spots on them that didn't come off when I washed it this morning.
With a line of screws along the side why would only one be corroded?
Anything else I should know about towing one of these? I've towed big travel trailers (until I wrecked the last one) don't want any issues because I was being ignorant.
banks intake/exhaust
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Oct-21-2017 07:24 PM
any "safety" lock can probably be defeated with a small Victor "hot wrench" (one of those little oxy/acetylene cutting torches in the pack-around case. I have one. handy little bugger!).
Every time I think of "security", I think of the day when I spent all afternoon installing the latest and greatest kitchen drawer and cupboard door "child proof security locks" in our kitchen. By the time I got the last one installed, the 4 year old boy had figured out how to open them. Quite simply, a total waste of money and time!
ANY lock is merely a device to keep honest people honest.
A truly dedicated crook has the tools at hand to defeat anything we can put on a trailer: Crowbar, 5 pound hammer, chisel, sawzall, cutting torch, whatever he needs, he (or she) has it or can readily get it!
Of course, we can still try to keep thing secure, but we shouldn't be too surprised when it fails.
good luck.
2017 Jayco TT
Daily Driver: '14 Subaru Outback
1998 Dodge QC LWB, Cummins, 5 speed, 4X2
2 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 ATVs.
Pride Raptor 3 wheeled off-road capable mobility scooter
"When seconds count, help is only minutes away!"
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Oct-21-2017 04:06 PM
banks intake/exhaust
wifi/4g/siriusXM/DTV/DirecTV/CB
2xGeorbital electric bike conversions
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Oct-19-2017 05:14 AM
F1bNorm wrote:
Re: back-up camera. You mentioned mounting in the hitch area. I think it would be better near the roof of your MH. Up high you can see the top of the trailer and its easier to line up. Also you can see traffic over the top.
If not included, I would get a removable wheel for the hitch jack. It will make hitching up easier. Bring the trailer to the MH, not MH to the trailer. Make sure you remove the wheel and crank the jack all the way up or you will bend or break it on the first driveway!
I would think that in his set up it would be a must have, especially when the cargo trailer is only a single axle.
We love our Westie
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Oct-18-2017 01:18 PM
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Oct-18-2017 12:28 PM
F1bNorm wrote:
Re: back-up camera. You mentioned mounting in the hitch area. I think it would be better near the roof of your MH. Up high you can see the top of the trailer and its easier to line up. Also you can see traffic over the top.
If not included, I would get a removable wheel for the hitch jack. It will make hitching up easier. Bring the trailer to the MH, not MH to the trailer. Make sure you remove the wheel and crank the jack all the way up or you will bend or break it on the first driveway!
I've already got a backup camera mounted above the back window on the MH I can see both sides plus the hitch with it, but is blocked from seeing behind when the trailer is attached. Been thinking of the garmin wireless backup camera that connects with the gps unit on the dash. Assuming it works through all that metal, could mount it between the clearance lights on top of the trailer. Probably power it that way, although I'd have to have the lights on when ever I needed to use it.
Trailer came with a 6" wheel to attach to the bottom of the jack. I used to have a 17' ski boat, so I'm assuming that this thing won't be any more difficult to hook up than the boat was.
banks intake/exhaust
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Oct-18-2017 07:42 AM
On this trip, really buckle down and pay attention to what you use and don't use. You might even go so far as to mark the items you use with a piece of tape or your first initial in an inconspicuous place with a Sharpie. Anything that hasn't been "tagged" after 6 months on the road is unnecessary weight and bulk that you're bringing along for absolutely no reason.
The obvious exceptions are basic tools and safety equipment. These are items you may need but hope you'll never use. Obviously you don't need a complete shop, just enough wrenches, hammers, and pliers to make basic repairs.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
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Oct-17-2017 09:53 PM
Scottiemom wrote:
Learn to get by with less. We live in our motorhome. . . true, it's a 40'er, but why do you need so much stuff? Are you taking 6 months worth of food? Clothes at the most should be a few pairs of jeans, shorts, shirts, and undies. You can do laundry on the road. Why do you need to have every crevice filled with junk, then haul a trailer for the rest of it?
We took our 22' B+ to Alaska for 3 months. I had her packed full, more food than anything else because we had heard about high prices for staples in Alaska. But everything fit in cupboards, don't have anything laying around on the floor. I took way more than we needed though. We had 3 changes of jeans, a week of undies, maybe 6 shirts, an insulated vest, hoodie and one heavier coat. We were limited on space for everything, but we were good to go.
We did add a trunk on the back for tools, the grill, etc. That might be a better solution. Put a truck in your receiver on the back.
Less is more.
Dale
I tow a 20’ enclosed trailer behind my truck camper giving me a combined length a little over 50’. It carries extra water, fuel and LPG for boon docking, motorized and pedal powered vehicles for sight seeing, outdoor furniture and tools. What can I say? I’m a guy that likes to bring his garage along. The trailer also allows to buy bulk items instead of expensively packaged smaller quantities and even has clothes line run inside to allow us to dry clothing regardless of weather.
Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD
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Oct-17-2017 06:59 PM
Oh yes, that’s the only reason to not drive 70+ towing...gas mileage.
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Oct-17-2017 06:48 PM
If not included, I would get a removable wheel for the hitch jack. It will make hitching up easier. Bring the trailer to the MH, not MH to the trailer. Make sure you remove the wheel and crank the jack all the way up or you will bend or break it on the first driveway!
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Oct-17-2017 03:15 PM
banks intake/exhaust
wifi/4g/siriusXM/DTV/DirecTV/CB
2xGeorbital electric bike conversions
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Oct-17-2017 10:56 AM
It almost looks like you could pivot it or move it back and forth a little bit by hand with a wheel on the tongue jack if necessary. If I was doing what you are doing for 6 months, I would definitely pull that little trailer for the same reasons you want to. It would get tiresome really quick having to step over and around things in the MH. As others said, make sure the bearings are in good shape and fresh grease.
2003 40' Allegro Bus, 3 slides, 400hp 8.9 liter ISL Cummins
2000 24' Dynamax Isata
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Oct-17-2017 09:49 AM
banks intake/exhaust
wifi/4g/siriusXM/DTV/DirecTV/CB
2xGeorbital electric bike conversions
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Oct-17-2017 05:57 AM
My personal choice would be the smallest tandem axle trailer, with brakes, I could find. If at all possible, I avoid single axle trailers, although my little ATV trailer is single axle.
IMO, "Bearing Buddies" are marginally acceptable for boat trailers, but not a good thing for any other trailer. I would not use them. Trailers with grease fitting on the spindle end are good IF the lubrication instructions are followed EXACTLY! One little mistake could result in a blown seal and a big mess. An annual or biennial inspection and repack, replacing the seals, is a good idea.
Have a good trip.
2017 Jayco TT
Daily Driver: '14 Subaru Outback
1998 Dodge QC LWB, Cummins, 5 speed, 4X2
2 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 ATVs.
Pride Raptor 3 wheeled off-road capable mobility scooter
"When seconds count, help is only minutes away!"
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Oct-17-2017 05:23 AM
We love our Westie