Ready Brake install on 2011 Jeep Liberty

[WeRmudfun]

We had this system on our Jeep Wrangler and loved it. Looking to install it on our 2011 Jeep Liberty, but can't figure out where to run the cable for the brake. On the Wrangler we just drilled a hole through the base plate and mounted it there. We are not sure if we can do the same thing for the Liberty. Does anyone have this system on their 2008-2012 Jeep liberty? If you could post pics of how you ran the brake cable I and my DW would appreciate it very much. 🙂 Thank you in advance.

[WeRmudfun]

Thanks for your response. I actually talked to the Ready Brake people and they said, just drill through the bumper through the license plate. Made sense, so I'll probably do that. On our Jeep Wrangler, I was able to drill through the baseplate. That way when we were not towing it, I was able to disconnect it and tie it back out of the way, so it didn't look like the Jeep was sticking it tongue out. lol Once I order the baseplate, I'll be able to see if I can do the same thing.
As for attaching it to the brake arm, never had a problem with it, couldn't even see it, so I left it that way.
Chuck

[FIRE_UP]

rv4us3,

I've ran the Ready Brake for years on our Jeeps too. It's great system. Now, I cannot answer your question accurately due to the fact that I'm not familiar with the bumpers on the Libertys. But, off the top of my head, it cannot be all that hard. It's a bumper. So, simply drill it, and install the cable housing end. Now, if it's a plastic cap, over a steel bumper underneath, then you'll have to accommodate the "space" in between the steel one and the plastic one. Not that hard. One more thing, I don't know how you set up your last R/B but, the instructions say to "clamp" that cable system to your brake arm in the Jeep, or whatever your toad is.

That sucks. I drilled the brake arm on the Jeep and, set the end of the cable up with a small clip and, when not being towed, the cable is wrapped up in a coil, under the mat. When it comes time for towing, reach under the mat and hook the cable to the brake arm and then proceed to the front for continued hook up. Way cleaner and, that cable is not being "Actuated" each and every time you press the brake while driving the toad on a daily basis.

And, the hideous way in which they want you to "adjust" the link cable to the actuator is pure bone head. I simply setup the link cable with a stainless steel turn buckle that is infinitely adjustable and seriously easier. Just and idea or two for you to think about. Good luck.
Scott