Reese dual cam question?

Your F-350 is not a 1972 Buick, it does not need to have the front end lower than unloaded when using a weight distributing hitch. In fact, with your trailer, it probably needs very little.---

Most people who buy a Dual Cam use it for two purposes --

1. for weight distribution and

2. for sway control.

The Dual Cam relies on WD bar load to generate yaw resistance. The greater the bar load -- the greater the yaw resistance.
If you're not distributing load to the front of the TV, you're not going to have effective sway control.

It's probably true that the OP's F-350 does not need full restoration of load to the steer axle based solely on axle load considerations.
However, if the OP wants a significant amount of sway control, he does need to have a significant amount of load on the WD bars.
And that means he would be getting a significant amount of load distribution.

Ron

phenrichs wrote:
Not sure on your TT weights but with a heavy truck like that you are using the WDH and Dual Cam more for balance and sway control than actual weight assistance like some lighter trucks need.

X2

Not sure on your TT weights but with a heavy truck like that you are using the WDH and Dual Cam more for balance and sway control than actual weight assistance like some lighter trucks need.

Lots of help thank you. I went back and looked today I was 1/16 below unloaded height on front fender of TV. Not the 3/16 I previously stated! Truck manual says to be within .5 inches of unloaded height. I assumed it didn't matter over or under. Thats what I get for assuming. When I hook up trailer without wdh, the front fender only rises .4375 inches! So, technically that is already good. Lol but it is definitely not good visually or from driving standpoint.

NWKomfort350 wrote:
When TV and TT are in straight line they seem to seat well in detent though

visually quick look won't tell you if the cam is properly aligned in the detent. go straight for 20-30 yards, then get out and use a feeler gauge on front and back of the cam detent on both sides. both should go to zero clearance at the same position on the feeler gauge. For example 10:00 and 2:00. If you find one going to zero at say 9:00 and the other at 12:00 you need to slightly adjust the arm.

But, yes, they may click and pop on turns, not always but sometimes. And with heavy bars, use some vasoline, something that is NOT necessarily a good friction reducer.

And mark the bars so they go on the same side. First they will wear in to the pattern, Second, bars are likely not exactly the same length, same arc location on the cam seat. so interchanging them may end up with not correct seating on the cam arm.

And finally, you may have to much tension on the bars. I'm not aware of any mfg that recomends bringing the front end lower than unloaded height anymore. (was the case in the past). In fact in many cases, trying to drop the front below unloaded height will have you hit rubber bumpers and it takes huge force to drop the front below unloaded.
Adjust so you are at or slightly above unloaded front end height and see what difference that makes.

NWKomfort350 wrote:
I have not been to a scale yet but weight appears transferred when measuring front fender im 3/16 inch lower than unloaded... there is ALOT of tension in spring bars.

Your F-350 is not a 1972 Buick, it does not need to have the front end lower than unloaded when using a weight distributing hitch. In fact, with your trailer, it probably needs very little. That must really take some tension to pull the front end of your F-350 down that much.

It will quiet down with use!

I will give two pieces of info that were given to me when I first started with it.
They will make noise, it lets you know they are there.
The only way to be certain is to go to a scale.

That being said here is the truth. Mine pops when turning tight and/or slowly. In normal driving I hear nothing. Slow turns and tight turns I hear a few pops and the occasional groan. If you hear squeaking like brakes on a car you can add some light grease (a drop will do) on the part of the bar that goes into the hitch head. I was told not to apply any to where the bar meets the cam roller as there is needed friction there. But I have read about the vaseline recommendation too.

From my experience the dual cam system is picky on the setup. It works great once you have it setup correctly. The only way to know that for sure is to go to the scale.

NWKomfort350 wrote:
I have not been to a scale yet but weight appears transferred when measuring front fender im 3/16 inch lower than unloaded... there is ALOT of tension in spring bars.

If your front fender hitched height is lower than when unhitched, your setup is not adjusted correctly. Go back and adjust it according to the instructions and ignore any advice that you get here that recommends trying different links. Your truck manual will specify what the fender height should be. You don't adjust a hitch by tweaking and experimenting for what feels or sounds good. You'll also need to go back and readjust your DC. All of this should be done with the trailer loaded as you are going to tow it.

X2 on the vaseline, its in the instruction book if you have noise when turning.