Reese head loose on shank

There should be 2 steel shims that fit inside the head with matching holes for the bolts to the shank. They are for such a problem. From installation guide:

"OPTIONAL SHIM KIT
Use the shim provided when needed to fill any gap between the Weight Distributing Head shown below and the hitch bar
used in the particular application.
It is easier to install the shim from the top down as shown on the following page. In doing so, you will encounter one of
three scenarios:
1. Shim will go all the way down to line up with the bottom hole. If this is the case, use the entire shim in
the gap.
Note: It is conceivable that in some rare combinations, two shims could be used. In these cases,
contact Customer Service at 800-632-3290 or 800-428-7303 for a free additional shim service
kit #58207.
2. Shim will not begin to fit between the head and hitch bar. If this is the case, discard shim and continue
installation. The existing gap is acceptable
3. Shim will not go in far enough to reach bottom hole.
If this is the case, cut shim in half and use only the
top half for the top bolt. Discard bottom half of shim"

Where in OR are you, I have shims and bolts.

I am about 1 hour southeast of Salem, two hours south of Portland and 1 1/2 hour west of Bend. This shim part makes sense as that would solve the problem.

I machined the inside of the head to make the sides true and parallel, then made a shim with near zero clearance. Bending cast metal for such an important part is not something I would do.

I talked with a technician at Reese a few years ago. He said the shim is only necessary if the rattle when unloaded is bothersome. I put one shim in and no rattle.

Hannibal wrote:
I talked with a technician at Reese a few years ago. He said the shim is only necessary if the rattle when unloaded is bothersome. I put one shim in and no rattle.

I guess anyone can be called a "technician" nowadays.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30099253/gotomsg/30099958.cfm#30099958

Thanks. I assume it would not cause a problem as it has been this way for a while. Although I am nervous with the bolt bent and the threads pulled. It would seem the movement changes the ball angle. With the adjustment made in very small steps with the adjusters it seems the ball would move 2 or 3 notches worth. I know I put the hitch together during a trip three years ago and have pulled a lot since then.

I am going to get the kit to mount from Reese and install the shim. Of course I thought about just making a shim out of steel and putting it in there. This might be a job today since it is going to be hot again!

Lynnmor wrote:

Hannibal wrote:
I talked with a technician at Reese a few years ago. He said the shim is only necessary if the rattle when unloaded is bothersome. I put one shim in and no rattle.

I guess anyone can be called a "technician" nowadays.

Can you prove him wrong? The shank has a little slop in the receiver as well with one 5/8” pin keeping it in there. Non issue.

Hannibal I am not out to prove the tech wrong. I understand his opinion on the slop and that is why I have not worried about it for a couple of years. What I see is a bent bolt and pulled threads. I have checked other peoples hitch in the parking lots and noticed they do not have the movement mine does. I agree with him that the movement is not going to shear off the bolts allowing my trailer total freedom on the highway but, I really don't think adding more movement to the hitch assembly is good. I am planning on doing what you did and stop the rattle and hopefully reduce the overall movement.

My purpose for the message initially is to determine if the movement in mine is the same as everyone else's or is mine different. It seems you had movement and put in a shim and stopped it. That will be my goal as well.

I know Ill fitting junk when I see it, it’s a shame that folks defend this and sad that supposed experts have no clue.