Shower Caulking

[Tacswa3]

So I caulk the shower in my TT where the walls meet the tub. I missed the small writing on the tube of caulk where it said "silicone based"

Applied first coat, stepped in tub and moved around to help caulk settle into and seat and waited for it to cure. As expected, a second application was needed so I apply. Shower was used 24 hours later and after a few uses I notice the caulk is peeling and coming off.

Where did I go wrong and how should I remove it so something else will stick? Can I use a Dicor product?

[Tacswa3]

Dave H M wrote:
Was that area caulked when new?

In my experience, the walls usually overlap the bottom or tub and are left not caulked.

No it was not caulked. The wall panels come down to the shower stall bowl and you can see the open seam where the two meet. I wonder if the shower stall bowl has an 90 degree upturn against the wall, and the wall panel comes down over that? If not water can behind there.


Edit: just read other replies. Looks like some of you guys are saying what I wondered. The pan having a lip up behind the walls.

[austinjenna]

2x on the painters tape. Works great..... Instead of wetting the finger, I use plastic storage wrap on the finger. Afterwards I pull the tape off and run the finger over again to smooth out the edges.

I use the tape but never thought about plastic wrap on the finger. Thanks for the tip!

[Ro_n_Joe]

Dick_B wrote:
I'm no expert but I think silicone will not stick to silicone.
I would have used a Dap Kwik Seal Kitchen and Bath Adhesive Caulk which I buy from Ace Hardware but others certainly have it.
The trick for good caulking for amateurs is to put painters tape on either side of the gap, smooth the caulk with a wet finger and remove the tape while the caulk is still wet. It may take another smoothing to get ride of the tape edge.
I think there is a silicone removing solvent but I don't know, off-hand, what it is. But it ALL has to be removed or the Dap won't stick either.
Good luck.

2x on the painters tape. Works great..... Instead of wetting the finger, I use plastic storage wrap on the finger. Afterwards I pull the tape off and run the finger over again to smooth out the edges.

[Fisherman]

Go get some 3M4200 marine sealant, it's NOT silicone. If it keeps water out of the boat, I'm pretty sure it will keep the water in your shower.

[myredracer]

Silcone caulk will NOT stick to cured silicone. No way, no how. If it needs more, you have to remove it including residue and start over. Gotta work fast when applying it as it starts to skin over fairly quickly. Surfaces it's being applied to need to be 100% clean.

[Skipg]

Just had the shower pan replaced in the MH. Caulking is NOT used where the walls meet the pan because the pan has a lip all the way the top. There is also a video on YouTube on how to replace a shower pan and the tech stated that caulk is not used.

[Fizz]

Dave H M wrote:
Was that area caulked when new?

In my experience, the walls usually overlap the bottom or tub and are left not caulked.

That's how my dealer explained it to me.
With the flex and twist of the TT any caulking would break seal. This is why it has a large overlap.

[Dave_H_M]

Was that area caulked when new?

In my experience, the walls usually overlap the bottom or tub and are left not caulked.

[Tacswa3]

Thanks for the replies gents. Looks like caulk remover it is. This area had no caulk for a brand new camper. I just messed up and didn't see the small print of "silicone based" on the tube of caulk I used.

[MURPHY55347]

Here is what I have learned. The shower is probably the only place where the factory uses silicone. Why is beyond me because as you found out when it needs to be repaired, silicone will not stick to silicone nor will any other type of caulk. The only solution is to remove ALL of the old caulk and residue. Get yourself some plastic razor blades and a bottle of caulk remover available at big box stores. Basically the caulk remover is a gel based paint thinner so it will stay it place as it does its work. Between this and the razor blades it will take a majority of it off. When you think you have it all off get some "dust". I used some fine concrete dust to dust the area as this will make it easier to see what areas you missed. As a final removal step get a white scothbrite pad which is a very fine abrasive as you don't want to scratch the plastic. Use this and more caulk remover to get the last bits off. Then you can you any type of bath caulk. Never ever use silicone anywhere.

[Dick_B]

I'm no expert but I think silicone will not stick to silicone.
I would have used a Dap Kwik Seal Kitchen and Bath Adhesive Caulk which I buy from Ace Hardware but others certainly have it.
The trick for good caulking for amateurs is to put painters tape on either side of the gap, smooth the caulk with a wet finger and remove the tape while the caulk is still wet. It may take another smoothing to get ride of the tape edge.
I think there is a silicone removing solvent but I don't know, off-hand, what it is. But it ALL has to be removed or the Dap won't stick either.
Good luck.