Simple extension cord

i've run my camper off a 15A cord many times. I can use everything but the ac or just the ac. good enough.

JRscooby wrote:

If you are using gas as the heat source, then the power demand thru cord would be much reduced. Maybe plug in to recharge batteries every few days?
My little and old unit only sees any 12 V is when plugged into the running TV. Because we always camp with power post, the only time we use gas for fridge is if we are stopped for a while on the way between sites. And because I don't use stove inside the only propane need on camper is the fridge. I have redone the plumbing. If we stop, park where trailer level, screw a lb bottle on, light the torch to bleed line, use it to heat thermo-couple, and push button to open gas valve, shut off touch.

You are a camping animal living on the edge of what is possible. Some stories from the road are just too unbeliveable.

Thanks to cavie.
Two GFIs can definitely be a problem.

pianotuna wrote:
JR,

The gas valve in mine draws nearly an amp. That is a measured value, not a guess.

If you are using gas as the heat source, then the power demand thru cord would be much reduced. Maybe plug in to recharge batteries every few days?
My little and old unit only sees any 12 V is when plugged into the running TV. Because we always camp with power post, the only time we use gas for fridge is if we are stopped for a while on the way between sites. And because I don't use stove inside the only propane need on camper is the fridge. I have redone the plumbing. If we stop, park where trailer level, screw a lb bottle on, light the torch to bleed line, use it to heat thermo-couple, and push button to open gas valve, shut off touch.

JR,

The gas valve in mine draws nearly an amp. That is a measured value, not a guess.

pianotuna wrote:

JRscooby wrote:


How much 12 V power does the fridge use?/How long house battery last? And if this was a issue could hook a small power supply to that circuit.

My RV parasitic loads amount to 35 amp-hours per day. Of that, my "guesstimate" is, given the 2:3 duty cycle of an absorption fridge (measured), about 20 amp-hours to run the fridge.

I know a absorption fridge uses a lot of power if using 12V to heat. But I can't see the control circuit would draw that much. All the power needed to heat would be on the 120V cord.

AllegroD wrote:

time2roll wrote:

JRscooby wrote:
How much 12 V power does the fridge use?/How long house battery last? And if this was a issue could hook a small power supply to that circuit.

Converter and fridge combined uses maybe 4 amps on that cord and 15 amp supply.
May as well plug in the main cord. Even the lights will not be a issue to get set in for the evening.

^^ This!
Some are not reading everything. Stated he has all electric rig which means an RR. We have used 15 amp, when air conditioner is not required. We do not have all electric but do have an RR. Easy to do. You probably won't be able to run water heater. You might get away with microwave oven. Definitely no AC as that might push over the 15 amps if inverter/charger(converter) and fridge all came on at the same time. Set your EMS input settings to below 15 amps. All of this will keep your batts up and RR running. Agree with throwing breakers for non essential systems to prevent accidental use.

To use MW and maybe AC you should consider turning other systems off. You might be able to.

Every temporary connection, like plugging in a adapter, adds a chance of bad connection. Sure it likely will be fine for the fridge compressor and control. But when you add the extra loads you can have trouble. But if the only thing plugged into the cord, all other loads go on batteries. Batteries will discharge, but can't add anyload to cord.

Grit dog wrote:
Aaaand OP hasn’t been back.....

*His* circuits are overloaded....:B

The number of replies -and info- has tripped his breaker!!....:W

Ya mean there's more to this MH thing - than stab it and steer it?..:@

.

time2roll wrote:

JRscooby wrote:
How much 12 V power does the fridge use?/How long house battery last? And if this was a issue could hook a small power supply to that circuit.

Converter and fridge combined uses maybe 4 amps on that cord and 15 amp supply.
May as well plug in the main cord. Even the lights will not be a issue to get set in for the evening.

^^ This!
Some are not reading everything. Stated he has all electric rig which means an RR. We have used 15 amp, when air conditioner is not required. We do not have all electric but do have an RR. Easy to do. You probably won't be able to run water heater. You might get away with microwave oven. Definitely no AC as that might push over the 15 amps if inverter/charger(converter) and fridge all came on at the same time. Set your EMS input settings to below 15 amps. All of this will keep your batts up and RR running. Agree with throwing breakers for non essential systems to prevent accidental use.

To use MW and maybe AC you should consider turning other systems off. You might be able to.

JRscooby wrote:
How much 12 V power does the fridge use?/How long house battery last? And if this was a issue could hook a small power supply to that circuit.

Converter and fridge combined uses maybe 4 amps on that cord and 15 amp supply.
May as well plug in the main cord. Even the lights will not be a issue to get set in for the evening.

JRscooby wrote:


How much 12 V power does the fridge use?/How long house battery last? And if this was a issue could hook a small power supply to that circuit.

My RV parasitic loads amount to 35 amp-hours per day. Of that, my "guesstimate" is, given the 2:3 duty cycle of an absorption fridge (measured), about 20 amp-hours to run the fridge.