Sulfur smell from water heater

Just drain the water and refill. I have to do this when I don't use the trailer frequently. Not a new situation.

Long shot cause could occur if you use any colored water that is not white.

He needs to do a vinegar wash. Tell him to look in his manual for the exact procedure. Only need to do it one time and good for life. I'm an engineer and don't really understand it but I followed the directions and no more smell in 4 years.

You are smelling hydrogen sulfide gas, which is produced by iron eating bacteria present in the water source.

It can be hard to get rid of. Bleach and flushing the system should do it, but it may take a couple of tries.

all good advice ,but just for safety have him check the water level in his batteries when batteries are dry they put off a nasty smell.

Atwood WH uses a 'clad aluminum' tank......interior surface is aluminum/zinc therefore NO Anode Rod used (Suburban has a Steel glass-lined tank and needs an anode rod)

Normal draining/flushing should be all that is needed for maintenance
Because of the small drain hole (1/2" vs Suburbans 3/4") I prefer to 'power flush' vs using spray wand (it blocks too much of the drain hole for a good flush----OK for spray around inside tank)

My power flush is simple.....
Remove drain plug then go turn water supply back on.
Full water pressure will BLOW crud out of drain hole.

If draining/flushing doesn't get rid of the 'rotten egg' smell then yo may need to do a Vinegar Soak as recommended by Atwood (clean/etch the inside of tank of microbes etc.)


FLUSHING YOUR WATER HEATER TO REMOVE THE ROTTEN EGG ODOR

1. Turn off your main water supply. Drain you water heater tank. Reinstall drain plug. Remove the pressure-temperature relief valve. With a funnel use 4 parts white vinegar to two parts water. (In a
6 gallon tank that would be 4 gallons vinegar to 2 gallons water).

2. Cycle the water heater, letting it run under normal operation 4-5 times. At no time do you remove the vinegar from the tank
Once this has been completed, remove the drain plug and drain the
water heater.

3. After thoroughly draining the tank, to remove the sediment, flush the water heater.
If you elect to use air pressure, it may be applied either through the inlet or outlet on the rear of the tank or applied through the pressure-temperature relief valve.
Remove the pressure-temperature relief valve and insert your air pressure through the pressure-temperature relief valve coupling.
In either case, with the drain valve open, the air pressure will force the remaining water out of the unit.

If air pressure is unavailable, your unit can be flushed with fresh water. Fresh water should be pumped into the tank either with the on-board pump or external water pressure.
External pressure may be hosed into the unit either through the inlet or outlet found on the rear of the tank or the pressure-temperature relief valve coupling located on the front of the unit.

Continue this flushing process for approximately five minutes allowing ample time for the fresh water to agitate the stagnant water on the
bottom of the tank and forcing the deposits through the drain opening.

4. Upon completion of the steps above, replace the drain plug and the pressure-temperature relief valve.

5. Refill tank with fresh water that contains no sulfur


Whistle clean tank :B

Atwood does not have an anode rod as it is an aluminum tank so it's not needed.

There is also a device you can buy to "blast" the inside of the water heater and remove scale and deposits. When I did that to mine (a used unit I bought) I was surprised at the crud that came out. I do it every year.
Yes, and the bleach too.
Cheers,

Flush and fill it. Smell will be gone, may have to do this periodically if you don't use frequent. N anode rod for atwood heater.

I had a well that was loaded with sulfer. Cows loved it. I flushed my 30 gal HWH twice a year and treated it with clorine when it got too smelly. We did not use it for coffee I carried in 10 gals for cooking. It removed need of softner for your hair though.