Sway bars for a Wolf Pup?

That's real nice of you DutchmenSport. KUDOS!

smsmith,

About 5 years ago the sway bar I used on my Springdale TT died. (yes, they can die). I bought a new one and because the hardware attachments were already on my camper and hitch head (those round balls), I did not need to install them again. I put them away in a drawer.

Fast forward a couple years later, we traded the Springdale for our current Outback (Walnut Ridge RV sales near New Castle,IN). At that time I switched and got an Equal-i-zer weight distribution system that had the sway control built in. I did not need the friction sway bar any more. I kept the bar and stuffed it away in my utility shed where it's been sitting for the last 5 years or so.

I just went out to the shed and found it. I also found the hardware for it (never opened).

If you are interested in this, I will give it to you. It's yours if you can use it.

I see in your profile you are from Indiana. Well, depending upon where you are at, maybe we could meet somewhere and I can give it to you.

I live (as shown in the left), between Lapel, Anderson, and Pendleton, Indiana (yes, in the country). What do you say?

If interested, use the Private Message on these forums and we can swap information how to meet up somewhere.

I'm always glad to help newer RVers by passing on my discarded items I'll never use again. I've given a lot of things away over the years. If interested, Private Message (PM) me.

The 16BHS Wolf Pup is a single axle trailer and you will be pulling it with a an F150. Here's the stats for the Wolf Pup:

Specs
Sleeps 4
Slides 0
Hitch Weight 377 lbs.
Ship Weight 3097 lbs.
GVWR 3877 lbs
Length 21' 5"
Height 9' 11"
Width 7' 0"
Fresh Water 32 gal
Gray Water 23 gal
Black Water 23 gal
L.P. Capacity 20 lbs
Tire Size 14"
Furnace BTU 20000


Now, the over all weight of the camper and even the tongue weight probably will not warrant a weight distribution hitch, even with an F150. But with that single axle, you're opening yourself to a LOT of potential sway and squirrelly driving, you probably will want a sway bar.

A very basic friction sway bar is like the one here: Click here.

You will need a hitch on the truck that will accommodate installing the round ball that the bar attaches to. The other ball is flat mounted on the trailer tongue frame. The friction sway bar is attached to both small balls and then the crank on the bar is tightened down as tight as you can get it. The pads inside rub against the metal, exactly like brakes in your car. The tighter the resistance, the better resistance to sway.

If this camper had 2 axles, I think you could get away no sway bar (maybe), but with the single axle... I think ... you really need a sway bar (but not weight distribution).

If by sway bars, you mean a weight distributing hitch, maybe. Your truck hitch is likely 500 lb. capacity, without WDH. The loaded trailer tongue weight will be about 500 lbs.

Your hitch capacity is listed on the hitch. You could give it a tow, see how it handles, and go from there. Just watch your speed, beware cross winds etc.

Jerry

Awe what a cute name for a box on wheels :)

You'll shortly get all sorts of opinions, mostly for, some against, the need for sway bars. If we're lucky, someone will post the u-haul video of the toy Mustang towing a trailer that is grossly misloaded.

My opinion is, if you drive responsibly and load both the truck and trailer intelligently, you do not need sway bars. Sway bars let you "get away" with improper loading, or over capacity loading.

Keep the speed down, what's the rush? Don't weave in traffic like you're driving a Porsche.

Keep the tongue heavy, find out where your water and storage tanks are, and load them accordingly. If the puppy has rear storage (behind the axles,) avoid using it or use it sparingly.

Learn the CCC of the trailer and stay well under it.

Learn the payload capacity (not towing capacity) of your truck and compare that to what a scale says when you're fully loaded. Don't forget everything you put in or on the truck counts against payload, not just stuff in the bed. E.G. a 200# push bar across the front grill is 200# less gear or luggage you can safely carry.

Maintain everything according to instructions. E.G. don't just fill all the tires on the truck and trailer to maximum sidewall, that's usually not optimal. Read and understand the manufacturer's tire load vs pressure chart. Too much air reduces the contact area between tire and road, and that reduces control.