Toilet Leaking

Nice work

good feed back rex. :C

olfarmer wrote:
You need to figure out where the leak is. It could be the floor seal or it could be the fresh water supply or the flush valve. I guess if you can't get to it and can afford it, just replace the unit, but, make sure you have a new floor seal gasket to put under the new stool.

It was the floor seal. It was cracked and worthless. Used the new installed toilet/seal all weekend with two daughters and a wife that didn’t understand the concept of “minimal water usage” with no new leaks.

You need to figure out where the leak is. It could be the floor seal or it could be the fresh water supply or the flush valve. I guess if you can't get to it and can afford it, just replace the unit, but, make sure you have a new floor seal gasket to put under the new stool.

Got this done last trip out to the property. Looking at the old toilet I think the issue was the flange or seal from the toilet to the floor. Since I already had a new toilet and the old one off I went ahead and replaced it anyway. Thanks for the help.

rexmitchell wrote:
I may just buy a new one since I don't know what is wrong and can't look at it before going out there. Seems I can get the same model online for around $150 shipped. If I pull it off replacing it should be easy. Any tips for replacing it? Do I need to purchase any other parts? It says it comes with needed harware/seals to connect to existing water lines and floor flange.

If it says it comes with necessary hardware you should be good to go. Lots of Youtube videos on how to change rv toilets.

I may just buy a new one since I don't know what is wrong and can't look at it before going out there. Seems I can get the same model online for around $150 shipped. If I pull it off replacing it should be easy. Any tips for replacing it? Do I need to purchase any other parts? It says it comes with needed harware/seals to connect to existing water lines and floor flange.

Put a paper towel down and find out just there the waters from, side under the pedal, back, rt side. Lifting the toilets no big deal, 2 bolts and a water line. Unlike S&B houses there is no wax ring it's a foam rubber type ring. The Theford Agua II has a repair kit available for the pedal leak, if you go that route DO NOT LET the pedal return spring get loose. I did and a buddy did the same thing, it can't be put back in. That said I switched to the Dometic 300. It's much better unit and actually swirls the water flushing, about $150. The 300 & 310 models are the same with the exception of shape, ones round the other oval.

While you have it out, put a shut off valve in the supply line, it allows the water to be shut off at the toilet and not the entire camper.

Every toilet issue I have had required me to remove the toilet - some were easy and some are PIA. Don't know what kind of toilet or age of your rig - but the new toilets are nicer/taller than old ones and they are inexpensive enough to consider buying new toilet rather than fixing old ones. Just a thought.

We just had two leaks fixed n our Sealand toilet in the Mh.
One was the pedal that fills and flushes. There was small piece inside the valve, but the o-ring was leaking due to slop in the valve. The toilet had to be taken up and the valve bout the size of your palm replaced. The second leak was the water supply. We had the small hose replaced in 14 in south Carolina when it flooded the place. The nylon fitting broke on the too small hoes in a tight bend. Then it was replaced with solid nylon or other plumbing fittings. It was leaking at the joint. Replaced it with proper hose this time. Our RV's flex and move a lot.
We had water in the floor too. Wife was blaming me for poor aim at first.
She's gonna pay. :)
Looking at the parts and that you think it is an Aqua... in follow on post your mileage may vary.