towing a jeep

RandyWild wrote:
Can you give me some links to what I need- I was quoted 2300 for all the parts - sounded crazy

That sounds like a pretty good price for the parts (depending on what system setup you'll be using.)
I did the installation myself and could see where a price of $3000.00 installed would be reasonable.

sch911 wrote:

bob_nestor wrote:
The Cool Tech wiring harness runs the Jeep brake/tail/turn signals and clearance lights thru the pigtail connector to the 7-pin plug on the RV. Since the RV supplies power for the Jeep lights you don't want the Jeep trying to do the same with the brake lights. It causes problems on the Jeep's CanBus and can cause expensive electrical problems.

It has nothing to do with the steering wheel lock which doesn't exist on my 2011. There is no need to leave the key in when towing this model year Jeep.

SO the Cool Tech harness has no diodes then. Being a Jeep electronics engineer I'm trying to understand why the battery needs to be disconnected. Cannot think of any way that the CAN bus could be affected since it's totally dead when the vehicle ignition is turned off?

I'm going by what I gleaned off various forums when I was doing the install. You're correct, the Cool Tech harness has no diodes and they recommend a battery disconnect. However, even with the Jeep ignition off the brake lights will come on when the brake is depressed so that circuit is powered by the Jeep battery. With the Cool Tech harness connected to the RV there's also power to the brakes coming from the RV to the Jeep. Having two power sources active to the brakes at the same time doesn't seem like a good idea to this engineer, so the battery disconnect suggested by Cool Tech seemed prudent.

bob_nestor wrote:
The Cool Tech wiring harness runs the Jeep brake/tail/turn signals and clearance lights thru the pigtail connector to the 7-pin plug on the RV. Since the RV supplies power for the Jeep lights you don't want the Jeep trying to do the same with the brake lights. It causes problems on the Jeep's CanBus and can cause expensive electrical problems.

It has nothing to do with the steering wheel lock which doesn't exist on my 2011. There is no need to leave the key in when towing this model year Jeep.

SO the Cool Tech harness has no diodes then. Being a Jeep electronics engineer I'm trying to understand why the battery needs to be disconnected. Cannot think of any way that the CAN bus could be affected since it's totally dead when the vehicle ignition is turned off?

bob_nestor wrote:

Interesting that you had intermittent connections. My Cool Tech wire harness plugged into the Jeep wire harness with snap-lock connections at the left rear taillight and runs to a 4-pin connector mounted on the front bumper.

No problems with the harness. just the battery disconnect.

Tom/Barb wrote:
My 07 wrangler has a steering lock, the key must be in the run position to unlock the steering wheel.
If in the run position, and hooked to the coach. the higher battery will try to charge the other battery.
Thus, I have a battery disconnect too. I tried the cooltech but had intermittent connections with it.

Interesting that you had intermittent connections. My Cool Tech wire harness plugged into the Jeep wire harness with snap-lock connections at the left rear taillight and runs to a 4-pin connector mounted on the front bumper. There's a short pigtail that connects between the 4-pin on the Jeep and the 7-pin on the RV. So unless there's a break in a wire in the harness on either the Jeep or the RV I would think the only place you could have an intermittent connection would be the 4-pin, 7-pin or pigtail. The 5-pin is the more robust covered round connector, not the flat one.

I did run the Cool Tech wire harness thru the Jeep's box frame to keep it from being snagged on things when I'm off-road. So far I haven't had any problems in almost 5 years other than the battery disconnect switch.

My 07 wrangler has a steering lock, the key must be in the run position to unlock the steering wheel.
If in the run position, and hooked to the coach. the higher battery will try to charge the other battery.
Thus, I have a battery disconnect too. I tried the cooltech but had intermittent connections with it.

sch911 wrote:

bob_nestor wrote:
I use the Ready Brute tow bar and braking system matched to a Roadmaster base plate setup on my 2011 Wrangler Sport. For lighting I installed a Cool Tech harness and Jeep battery disconnect so the Jeep becomes a fancy trailer to the RV. Connect/disconnect takes me just a few minutes and I can do it without help.

I like having brakes on the toad and having all the lights working - tail, stop, brake, clearance. I tow with my Class B Roadtrek and have made multiple trips into the Rockies without a single problem.

The only issue I had was the battery disconnect that came with the Cool Tech wire harness tended to corrode and give an intermittent battery connection. I replaced it with a better sealed battery disconnect switch that I got at AutoZone and haven't had that problem since.

Why does your Wrangler need a battery disconnect? Didn't think the Wrangler had a steering lock for many years, so no need to leave the key in it.....

The Cool Tech wiring harness runs the Jeep brake/tail/turn signals and clearance lights thru the pigtail connector to the 7-pin plug on the RV. Since the RV supplies power for the Jeep lights you don't want the Jeep trying to do the same with the brake lights. It causes problems on the Jeep's CanBus and can cause expensive electrical problems.

It has nothing to do with the steering wheel lock which doesn't exist on my 2011. There is no need to leave the key in when towing this model year Jeep.

bob_nestor wrote:
I use the Ready Brute tow bar and braking system matched to a Roadmaster base plate setup on my 2011 Wrangler Sport. For lighting I installed a Cool Tech harness and Jeep battery disconnect so the Jeep becomes a fancy trailer to the RV. Connect/disconnect takes me just a few minutes and I can do it without help.

I like having brakes on the toad and having all the lights working - tail, stop, brake, clearance. I tow with my Class B Roadtrek and have made multiple trips into the Rockies without a single problem.

The only issue I had was the battery disconnect that came with the Cool Tech wire harness tended to corrode and give an intermittent battery connection. I replaced it with a better sealed battery disconnect switch that I got at AutoZone and haven't had that problem since.

Why does your Wrangler need a battery disconnect? Didn't think the Wrangler had a steering lock for many years, so no need to leave the key in it.....

I use the Ready Brute tow bar and braking system matched to a Roadmaster base plate setup on my 2011 Wrangler Sport. For lighting I installed a Cool Tech harness and Jeep battery disconnect so the Jeep becomes a fancy trailer to the RV. Connect/disconnect takes me just a few minutes and I can do it without help.

I like having brakes on the toad and having all the lights working - tail, stop, brake, clearance. I tow with my Class B Roadtrek and have made multiple trips into the Rockies without a single problem.

The only issue I had was the battery disconnect that came with the Cool Tech wire harness tended to corrode and give an intermittent battery connection. I replaced it with a better sealed battery disconnect switch that I got at AutoZone and haven't had that problem since.

I towed Jeeps for years with a Reese adjustable width fixed arm tow bar ($165 at Walmart the last time I looked). There are those who will say such a tow bar is too much trouble yada yada yada, but it worked well for me.
Now I have a fancy-schmancy telescoping arm tow bar ($250, craigslist) and don't much like it. BUT, it has a 6000 lb. capacity instead of 5000, and that's where I need to be now.
Safety chains or cables are readily available from your local farm store (Tractor Supply, etc.). Walmart or U-haul also has them. They can even be found on Amazon.
Lighting can be done is many ways, from magnetic lights from Harbor Freight to fancy plug-and-play wiring harnesses to home-brewed wiring systems.
For braking, if desired, (yes, it IS a good idea) I recommend the Ready Brake system from NSA. Simple, relatively easy to install and adjust, relatively inexpensive, and works with any tow bar.
When shopping, don't forget to check thrift stores, pawn shops, second hand stores, etc. There are some amazingly good buys out there!