Towing Capacity

GCVWR is 13500. GVWR for the tow vehicle is 7350. Weighed in on CAT scales today and was 710 pounds over on the drive axle but 390 below max on the front axle. Trailer weighed in at 6200, each trailer axle is rated at 4000 pounds, dry weight is 6060 with additional cargo capacity of 1200 and change.

Will adjustment to the weight distribution hitch transfer extra weight off the rear axle?

The 13500 is a gross combined weight rating (gcwr). More to do with braking/engine towing performance/drivetrain reliability/etc. The truck maker may choose any number he wants. This does not mean the trucks components will break if that number is exceeded as evident a simple gear ratio change say from a 3.7 to a 4.1 can change a vehicles gcwr number.

Helper springs....... just helps the truck rear suspension carry more weight which is more inline with payloads rather than a tow rating. Keep in mind the truck has to carry weight (payloads)......and pull its tow rating.

This is where anyone with a tow vehicle should weigh his vehicles front and rear axles separately. That way a rear axle or a wheel or tire or rear spring pack capacity won't be exceeded.
Just stay under the trucks GAWRS and You won't break a axle or blow a tire.

Flyfisher410 wrote:
According to my vehicle manual, I can safely tow a combined weight of 13,500 pounds. Preparing to load my truck and camper but am concerned I will be close to or over weight limit. I have been told that "Helper Springs" might be an acceptable resolution. I am also using a centerline weight distribution hitch. Can/will the helper springs increase my towing capacity and would I need to re-adjust the weight distribution hitch if I add springs? Last thing I want to experience is a blowout or worse yet a broken axel.

What it can tow and what it can haul are two different things. The limit is most likely what it can haul rather than what it can tow. Check the payload. And go to the scales to determine how much payload you actually have left after loading up the truck ready for camping with a full fuel tank.



On my rig, the truck is loaded to 95% of its GVWR, 92% of its rear GAWR, but only 88% of its GCWR.

I'll agree with mowermech and wing_zealot.
Add#4
Know what the performance specs of the manufacture really mean. example, the new towing specs only requires a rig to go up or down a 12% grade, 13% if it stalls out, its made spec! I've been up and down locally here in the greater Seattle Puget sound region local roads, driveways in the 25-35% range. I've also stalled out many a rig do to NOT HAVING the correct drivetrain to do the task I need to do. Yet I was under the manufactures generic rating. Blown a transmission or three too! So make sure you understand what the ratings actually stand for, before you go over or under the ratings and assume you will be ok.
Like Mowermech, I have pulled both over and under ratings, been safe above, unsafe below due to a poorly loaded trailer and it swayed uncontrollably. As one causes an accident....."BUT OFFICER, I was under the ratings, so I must have been safe!" A rule in Wa st, if a trailer movers more than 12" off center, your are unsafe, get a ticket, and have to fix the problem before you can continue going down the road!
There are a number of other rules, codes and laws similar to this. Same as the legal weight you go down the road. My C2500 has an 8000 lb plate on it, at 8001 lbs to door sticker of 8600, I am overweight! Door sticker number means squat here! Manufacture gcwr number is not a legal number from a enforcement number either. You need enugh paid for tag including the truck and trailer to be legal per say. IE pay the tax for the damage to the roads you are doing at a given gvw. Looke up federal bridge laws to see what your true max legal weight is per axel, what can limit it etc.

Marty

Mowermeh, you forget no. 3. What the manufacturer is willing to stand behind before he denies your warranty claim.

All "ratings" are SWAGs (Scientific Wild @$$ Guesses) created by engineers, based on:
1. The manufacturer's weight limits of tires, wheels, axles, springs, etc. Keep in mind that all those ratings, except tires, are "hidden ratings". The vehicle buyer does not usually know what they are, and the vehicle manufacturer often places a rating on, say, the axles, that is less than the axle manufacturer's rating.
2 What the marketing department wants. Have you ever noticed that Gross Combined Weight Ratings on trucks will go up every year, even though not much has changed other than cosmetic items? BUT, the ratings will seldom exceed those that might require the driver to have a CDL! Yeah, it is a "numbers game". How can a truck that has a 2000 lb. payload be rated as a Half Ton or a Three Quarter Ton?
Long ago and far away, we were full-timing in a 32 foot triple slide fifth wheel pulled by a 1994 Dodge 3500 CTD 4X2 standard cab long box dually, with 5 speed manual transmission, 4.10 rear axle ratio, and Load Range E tires, registered for 14k GVW. The GCWR of the truck was 18k, IIRC. When I finally got around to weighing the rig (on the final trip back to MT before settling down again), it was under all ratings except GCWR. The total combined weight was 21,180 lbs. That's right, it was a little more than a TON AND A HALF over GCWR. Yet, we had made several trips over the Continental Divide (Homestake Pass, Lookout Pass), over the Cascade Range (Snoqulamie Pass) and over the Sierras (Donner Pass) with no problems. As I am over-fond of saying, "Nothing bent, nothing broke, nobody was injured or died!"
It is worthy of note that the GCWR of a vehicle is usually found only in the Owners Manual! It is not one of the ratings found on the door jamb sticker. All of the numbers are "ratings", not "do not exceed" limits.
In those states where the registered owner can buy the GVW he wants (like the 14K GVW on the '94 Dodge 3500), it IS a "do not exceed" limit!

NOTE: The above is my opinions, and a description of what I have done. It is not to be construed as a recommendation of what others should do. Any decisions others may make are purely THEIR decisions!

Flyfisher410 wrote:
According to my vehicle manual, I can safely tow a combined weight of 13,500 pounds. Preparing to load my truck and camper but am concerned I will be close to or over weight limit. I have been told that "Helper Springs" might be an acceptable resolution. I am also using a centerline weight distribution hitch. Can/will the helper springs increase my towing capacity and would I need to re-adjust the weight distribution hitch if I add springs? Last thing I want to experience is a blowout or worse yet a broken axel.

without knowing your truck's specs, its hard to respond.
as others have said, PAYLOAD CAPACITY is more important than towing capactiy.

and helper springs do NOTHING to increase towing capacity.

You should be most concerned about being overweight with your tow vehicle. Usually, you will exceed your max payload long before you will be close to your combined gross.

Thanks for the input, was a bit skeptical anyway and wanted additional info. Thanks again.

What is your payload number? Tongue weight? Is tongue weight about 1,700 pounds?