Hi all, two questions. I have a tekonsha primus brake controller. Had it working great for about a year. went to use it this last time around and sped up to 25 or 30 mph and pulled the bar all the way one way to see if the trailers tire skid and they did not. adjusted it up and they didn't skid. You can definitely feel the trailer brake and pull the suburban down. Ended up to max power and still no skid. Now when I go back to least power I don't feel the brakes even engage. So is there a way to test the full ouput of the controller? I jacked up all four wheels and they were dragging slightly. Second, when I went to jack up the trailer axles I went about 1/3 way in and as it jacked up it looked like it started bending so I let it back down. Never got it off the ground. I hope its not bent.Third (I know I said two). When I checked the brakes I checked the bearings too. They may have had 1/16 to 1/8 in play in them up and down. All were about the same. I kind of want to take a turn on the nut but don't want to overtighten them. Is this too much play.BTW re-setting up a reese dual cam to a e350. That front end only raised a 1/4 in from stock. What is kind of suprising is that the wdh from the suburban to the e350 barely changed at all.Getting ready for a outer banks trip.ThanksBill

Need to adjust brakes.......NEVER jack up trailer 1/3 of way end on axle. You can jack it up using axle IF jack is placed under area where springs are attached. IF not there........use frame. You MAY have bent axle. YOU will need to monitor tire wear. Outside wearing indicates axle bent up.A little end play is OK....it will minimize when bearing/spindle heat up.Over tight and bearing/spindle will get damaged

It souns like your brakes are simply out of adjustment.

Ok, that is what I was afraid of. Just wasn't thinking. Oh well, you live and learn.Thanks, will adjust brakes.

Old-Biscuit, how long before I see the wearing on the edges? 1000 miles? few thousand? Or could I see it before go 250 miles? Also, is this going to cause it to wonder all over the road or sway a lot?Thanks

depending on the trailer weight and brakes, it is not always possible to lock up the wheels. One thing that can help is to replace the brake wiring with adequate sized wire. often they use 14 or 16 g wire between the tongue and brakes and then 16 across the axle to the other side. You have close to 10A flowing with 4 wheels that results in enough voltage drop to reduce the max current and hence braking. On my trailer, factory wiring wouldn't allow the brakes to lock. went to #10 from the tongue to the wheels and then #12 across to the other side. Now they lock up with a setting of 6 on the prodigy.Also, tapered wheel bearings MUST repeat MUST have end play. normally tighten them by hand +1/2 turn, to seat the bearings, then back off and tighten by hand and back off1/8- 1/4 turn or so to the next available cotter pin position on the nut.Normally you won't see up and down play, but play in/out if you grab the tire at the top and try to push it in and pull it out. 1/16" of play at the top of the tire seems reasonable but near what I would say is max range. you should be able to just feel some play.

Two brake related things | Good Sam Community

Wishin
Explorer
Oct 08, 2015
Thanks for the link Barney, I have added this to my To Do list for next spring. Sounds like it should definitely improve braking performance.
BarneyS
Explorer III
Oct 07, 2015
The wiring update on the trailer brakes will most likely make a huge difference. Former Travel Trailer moderator and my good friend LAdams did this and posted about it with some pictures here.

I would take a look and see if you think that will help you out in your situation. I think it will. :)
Barney
Wishin
Explorer
Oct 07, 2015
ktmrfs wrote:
depending on the trailer weight and brakes, it is not always possible to lock up the wheels.

One thing that can help is to replace the brake wiring with adequate sized wire. often they use 14 or 16 g wire between the tongue and brakes and then 16 across the axle to the other side. You have close to 10A flowing with 4 wheels that results in enough voltage drop to reduce the max current and hence braking. On my trailer, factory wiring wouldn't allow the brakes to lock. went to #10 from the tongue to the wheels and then #12 across to the other side. Now they lock up with a setting of 6 on the prodigy.

Also, tapered wheel bearings MUST repeat MUST have end play. normally tighten them by hand +1/2 turn, to seat the bearings, then back off and tighten by hand and back off1/8- 1/4 turn or so to the next available cotter pin position on the nut.

Normally you won't see up and down play, but play in/out if you grab the tire at the top and try to push it in and pull it out. 1/16" of play at the top of the tire seems reasonable but near what I would say is max range. you should be able to just feel some play.

Thanks for posting this, I'm definitely going to look at upgrading my wiring. My brakes feel pretty weak on my trailer, have been since new (2014 model). Prodigy P2 cranked all the way up and I am not even close to locking them up. I've had them apart, re-greased and re-adjusted the bearings, adjusted the brakes and made sure each brake was getting power and working back in June this year. All checks out but I have not checked the amount of voltage drop, the wiring does look quite small. I've wondered how much it would help. Sounds like a nice project for next spring before camping starts up again, only one short trip left for us this year. Thanks!
Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Oct 07, 2015
NCMODELA wrote:
So I got them adjusted and they lock up now. Then I put my complete load on it probably 9500lbs or so and they don't lock up but jerk the camper back significantly at 25 mph.---
As previously mentioned -- some trailer brakes will not lock up even with full current applied.

This is what Dexter Axle has to say:

On an unloaded trailer, you may be able to lock up your brakes if your electric brake controller is supplying full amperage to the brakes.
When loaded to capacity, you may not be able to lock your brakes as electric brakes are designed to slow the trailer at a controlled rate, and not designed to lock up the wheels on a fully loaded trailer.

Ron
NCMODELA
Explorer
Oct 05, 2015
So I got them adjusted and they lock up now. Then I put my complete load on it probably 9500lbs or so and they don't lock up but jerk the camper back significantly at 25 mph. It might be the wire issue stated above.
On the bearing issue I think I may have fooled my self. Side to side there is little to some play. Up and down I think I am moving the suspension with it thinking it was the bearing too.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Sep 29, 2015
mkirsch wrote:
Bearings need periodic maintenance. Brakes need periodic adjustment. This is right in the owner's manual for your trailer. You've got a perfect train wreck going on there.

With bearings that loose, take them apart, clean them up, repack them, and install them properly. You will need to replace the axle seals, so pick some of them up before you start, or have it done by a professional.

Do the bearings first, then adjust the brakes.

Good advice!

That play in the bearings likely took out the grease seal and lubed the brake linings. If the linings are soaked with grease, you should replace the whole mess. If the bearings were way too loose, they were damaged as well.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Sep 29, 2015
Bearings need periodic maintenance. Brakes need periodic adjustment. This is right in the owner's manual for your trailer. You've got a perfect train wreck going on there.

With bearings that loose, take them apart, clean them up, repack them, and install them properly. You will need to replace the axle seals, so pick some of them up before you start, or have it done by a professional.

Do the bearings first, then adjust the brakes.
Sport45
Explorer II
Sep 28, 2015
NCMODELA wrote:
Hi all, two questions. I have a tekonsha primus brake controller. Had it working great for about a year. went to use it this last time around and sped up to 25 or 30 mph and pulled the bar all the way one way to see if the trailers tire skid and they did not. adjusted it up and they didn't skid. You can definitely feel the trailer brake and pull the suburban down. Ended up to max power and still no skid. Now when I go back to least power I don't feel the brakes even engage. So is there a way to test the full ouput of the controller? I jacked up all four wheels and they were dragging slightly.

Second, when I went to jack up the trailer axles I went about 1/3 way in and as it jacked up it looked like it started bending so I let it back down. Never got it off the ground. I hope its not bent.

Third (I know I said two). When I checked the brakes I checked the bearings too. They may have had 1/16 to 1/8 in play in them up and down. All were about the same. I kind of want to take a turn on the nut but don't want to overtighten them. Is this too much play.

BTW re-setting up a reese dual cam to a e350. That front end only raised a 1/4 in from stock. What is kind of suprising is that the wdh from the suburban to the e350 barely changed at all.

Getting ready for a outer banks trip.

Thanks
Bill

I agree the trailer brakes need to be adjusted. I run them in until I can't turn the wheel in order to center everything. Then I'll back them off until it just drags a bit each rotation.

The wheel bearings sound like they're WAY loose. 1/16" is over .060" of play (about the thickness of a US nickel). I'd clean and inspect them. If they're okay, repack them and install with maybe .010" end play. As mentioned above, you have to have clearance for the grease to do it's thing. But you definitely don't want them 1/16 to 1/8" sloppy.

See the sticky at the top of this forum for some great how-to advice on brake and bearing maintenance.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Sep 28, 2015
IF you bent the axle upward you will see increased outside thread wear within 500 miles....(axle has a manufactured bend in center to set negative camber.....when loaded results in '0' camber)

HERE are some quick and easy methods to check axles
ktmrfs
Explorer II
Sep 28, 2015
depending on the trailer weight and brakes, it is not always possible to lock up the wheels.

One thing that can help is to replace the brake wiring with adequate sized wire. often they use 14 or 16 g wire between the tongue and brakes and then 16 across the axle to the other side. You have close to 10A flowing with 4 wheels that results in enough voltage drop to reduce the max current and hence braking. On my trailer, factory wiring wouldn't allow the brakes to lock. went to #10 from the tongue to the wheels and then #12 across to the other side. Now they lock up with a setting of 6 on the prodigy.

Also, tapered wheel bearings MUST repeat MUST have end play. normally tighten them by hand +1/2 turn, to seat the bearings, then back off and tighten by hand and back off1/8- 1/4 turn or so to the next available cotter pin position on the nut.

Normally you won't see up and down play, but play in/out if you grab the tire at the top and try to push it in and pull it out. 1/16" of play at the top of the tire seems reasonable but near what I would say is max range. you should be able to just feel some play.

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