Using a 2.5" to 2" reducer with WD Hitch

[Walaby]

So the new TV I just bought has a Class V hitch (2.5" receiver), and my WD hitch is for Class IV (2"). I decided to buy a reducer for $12 from Amazon. Part came in today and it says Warning: Do not use with WD equipment". Guess I really didn't think there would be an issue, as long as I don't try to exceed the ratings for a Class IV hitch (which I am way under anyways).

So, I guess a question to the group. Is anyone using a reducer to accommodate a Class IV hitch used with a Class V receiver? Is it safe/okay to use as long as I don't exceed the Class IV weight ratings?

I suppose I can go to my dealer and get a Class V hitch for my setup. Haven't checked that option to see if they have one in stock.

Mike

[DirtyOil]

BarneyS wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:
Have a 2012 GMC 2500HD with factory reducer. When I pulled my old bumper pull I never had any issues or even a bit of sound. With the trailer disconnected you could move the hitch head around a bit but once the WD bars are (properly) applied everything is under tension and doesn't clank around at all. At least that is my experience.

That has been my experience also.
Barney

X3
some where near 60,000 miles since November 2015 transporting RVs, the 2.5" to 2" reducer on my 2013 Ram has never caused me concern.

[Treatcg]

Has anyone welded the reducer sleeve to the actual shank? I would rather weld my reducer sleeve to my equalizer hitch than buy a new 2.5" shank. Thoughts.

[time2roll]

I would have a new drawbar. I dislike adapters. Good luck, welded in s/b fine.

[billyray50]

Houston Remodeler wrote:
After losing my reducer I was shocked at the prices for a short piece of tube steel with a hole in it !!

Shopping around lead me to a local hitch supply store. He sells so many he keeps them on the counter. I asked his advice on purchasing 2 as insurance against losing the first one. I declined buying a second one.

On the way out the door he shouted, "see you next week"

I did replace the L shaped pin as the L shape was digging an enlarged hole in the class V hitch. The new, locking straight bar pin makes no such wear marks.

After losing my factory reducer I picked one up quick at tractor supply for 20 bucks. I worked fine for a return trip from new York to Texas. Worked fine but not as good as factory. Just ordered a new OEM mopar for 33 bucks including shipping.

[Drew_K]

My F250 came with the sleeve, but over time became slightly rusty and would stick, making it hard to remove and reinsert. TIP: After cleaning off the rust, I put a thin coat of motor oil on the outside and it now slides in and out easily.

[Walaby]

Update: Took it to a local truck accessory shop and they welded the reducer in. Did a great job, nice and clean weld all around, front and back. Painted as well. $40 out the door.

All good now.

Mike

[LIKE2BUILD]

My '14 RAM has a 2.5" receiver and I too tried to use an adapter sleeve for my WD hitch. I didn't like the results at all. I never even hooked up to the trailer, but I could move the hitch over 1 1/4". I didn't like that so I splurged and got the proper drop hitch with a 2.5" shank. I just had a lot more peace of mind knowing there were few parts in the food chain and much less slop.

KJ

[jake2250]

N-Trouble, Yep thats the one I have also. Only problem is the bike rack has a special tapered pin that screws in and tightens thus taking the wobble out of the hitch connection, It only comes in 2", I need 2-1/2,, I am trying to rectify with the manufacturer, I called them and they are working with me.
By the way,, this is only the bike rack not my WD hitch for the trailer. And to clarify, yes the WD hitch was solid when tensioned, it was with out a trailer or a light load like my aluminum fishing boat. Still it did not seem that big of a deal to me,, more of an annoyance hearing it rattle.
Gotta say,, The dealer where I bought the truck did a great job and didn't blink an eye about it, he understood exactly where I was coming from and asked for my keys, said he would make it right and boy he did!!
Now,, a little turn to the story,, I get my truck back and am extremely happy! I get home and find a reducer behind my back seat!I called the dealer and he said Nope wasn't theirs, they just welded the one I had in there!! Crazy!!

[N-Trouble]

jake2250 wrote:
When I purchased my Silverado 2500 it came with the reducer, I used it and it did seem a little sloppy. I took the truck to the dealer and explained my concern.
They took the truck in and welded the reducer to the hitch, I mean they welded that bad boy, not simple tacking, a full bead all around front and back!
Even put a coat of paint on it!!
Done deal,works great!!
Only issue now is finding a locking hitch pin for my bike rack, I have a standard locking hitch pin,, but the one for my bike rack is an anti wobble but not long enough!
My WD hitch is nice and snug no rattles or wobble anymore!!
Take it to a welder and have them weld it in, I do not tow anything that requires a 2-1/2 shank!

This is the locking pin I use on my GM 2.5" receiver http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017KIYOG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

If your getting rattling from the reducer with WD bars attached that is a sign your hitch is not setup properly. You likely don't have enough tension on the bars and they are completely unloading under certain road conditions

[Walaby]

jake2250... I think I may just do that. Would seem to be a whole lot easier, at the end of the day. That's a better solution than the bolt, in my opinion.

Mike

[jake2250]

When I purchased my Silverado 2500 it came with the reducer, I used it and it did seem a little sloppy. I took the truck to the dealer and explained my concern.
They took the truck in and welded the reducer to the hitch, I mean they welded that bad boy, not simple tacking, a full bead all around front and back!
Even put a coat of paint on it!!
Done deal,works great!!
Only issue now is finding a locking hitch pin for my bike rack, I have a standard locking hitch pin,, but the one for my bike rack is an anti wobble but not long enough!
My WD hitch is nice and snug no rattles or wobble anymore!!
Take it to a welder and have them weld it in, I do not tow anything that requires a 2-1/2 shank!

[Walaby]

mkirsch wrote:


This is what I use for a reducer sleeve. A 12" weldable receiver tube. It fits right in my 2.5" receiver perfectly, and supports the shank along its entire length. No more slop than what you'd get out of the 2" shank in a 2" receiver.

The original hole was half a hole off, so I turned it 90 degrees, marked for new holes, and drilled them in the right place. Extra holes are irrelevant because it's not structural.

That's what I have too. When I set the WD hitch up, everything seems okay. But, when I raise the tongue to lock the bars in (trunnion style, no chains), I see the whole shank/WD hitch kinda rotate/lift up prob 1/4 to 1/2 inch, which I just did not like. Once I brought everything together, and lowered back down to WD level, ready to tow, it settled in. Just didn't like seeing that shank movement under load, and just wondering what would happen on rough roads, like costruction.

Maybe Im overly paranoid/concerned....

Mike

[mkirsch]

This is what I use for a reducer sleeve. A 12" weldable receiver tube. It fits right in my 2.5" receiver perfectly, and supports the shank along its entire length. No more slop than what you'd get out of the 2" shank in a 2" receiver.

The original hole was half a hole off, so I turned it 90 degrees, marked for new holes, and drilled them in the right place. Extra holes are irrelevant because it's not structural.

[BarneyS]

N-Trouble wrote:
Have a 2012 GMC 2500HD with factory reducer. When I pulled my old bumper pull I never had any issues or even a bit of sound. With the trailer disconnected you could move the hitch head around a bit but once the WD bars are (properly) applied everything is under tension and doesn't clank around at all. At least that is my experience.

That has been my experience also.
Barney