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Using Furnace While Driving

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
We hit the road with the FW yesterday for Easter Weekend. Our destination park will not unlock the pedestal after 8pm so I knew we would not have power until ~8:30am the following morning. The temperature was in the mid 50's with an expected low this morning of mid 40's (47 at the moment). I decided to run the furnace for the last hour of our trip to warm up the FW in order to preserve the battery once we arrived.

I was uneasy doing this, concerned the bouncing may damage the fan bearings. Did this do any harm to my furnace fan bearings? What type of bearings do the two furnace fans have?

Thanks
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857
20 REPLIES 20

garyhaupt
Explorer
Explorer
cross21114 wrote:
garyhaupt wrote:
I have no idea of the complexities involved, but...my '99 E 350 Triple E Regal has ducting to provide an engine heater outlet in back..plus a separate fan motor. It might well be worth looking into.

Gary Haupt


You would think all manufacturers would run at least one duct back but most don't - at least mine didn't. Would be even better if you could open that vent and close the ones in the cab so you don't get run out of the cab.



Man..I was sooo wrong. Triple E's had an optional winter package that included a rear mounted heater/fan. Not ducting from front heating system.
I have a Blog..about stuff, some of which is RV'ing.

http://mrgwh.blogspot.ca/

garyhaupt
Explorer
Explorer
JaxDad wrote:
The simplest is a โ€˜bus heaterโ€™, to a self-contained heater with fan that runs off the heater line from the engine. The name comes from the fact that they were created to warm the rear of school buses.

On a lot of motorhomes they have an electric switch on the dash marked โ€œcoach heaterโ€ which is just remote power to a bus heater buried in a cabinet somewhere down the back.

Theyโ€™re a really easy DIY project.


Maybe that's what I have...a "bus heater'..as opposed to separate ducting. I shall investigate.

Gary
I have a Blog..about stuff, some of which is RV'ing.

http://mrgwh.blogspot.ca/

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
cross21114 wrote:
garyhaupt wrote:
I have no idea of the complexities involved, but...my '99 E 350 Triple E Regal has ducting to provide an engine heater outlet in back..plus a separate fan motor. It might well be worth looking into.

Gary Haupt


You would think all manufacturers would run at least one duct back but most don't - at least mine didn't. Would be even better if you could open that vent and close the ones in the cab so you don't get run out of the cab.


Instead of turning down the cab heat, turn it to the dash panel vents and point them down between driver and passenger and open the rearmost roof vent. The vacuum created will pull a vast amount of warm air to the back and away from the cab area.

The above process works just as well for air conditioning too.

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
The simplest is a โ€˜bus heaterโ€™, to a self-contained heater with fan that runs off the heater line from the engine. The name comes from the fact that they were created to warm the rear of school buses.

On a lot of motorhomes they have an electric switch on the dash marked โ€œcoach heaterโ€ which is just remote power to a bus heater buried in a cabinet somewhere down the back.

Theyโ€™re a really easy DIY project.

cross21114
Explorer
Explorer
garyhaupt wrote:
I have no idea of the complexities involved, but...my '99 E 350 Triple E Regal has ducting to provide an engine heater outlet in back..plus a separate fan motor. It might well be worth looking into.

Gary Haupt


You would think all manufacturers would run at least one duct back but most don't - at least mine didn't. Would be even better if you could open that vent and close the ones in the cab so you don't get run out of the cab.
Chris
2018 Nexus Ghost 36DS
360 Cummins, 3000 Allison
2016 Ford Expedition

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
No harm in general that I can think of, but unless you have a dedicated charging system from truck to trailer, youโ€™re not charging much and therefore not maintaining all your battery charge anyway.
Also, talking 40s-50s, the camper will likely warm up quickly parked but suck out a lot of warm air driving down the road.
Iโ€™d get there with full batteries and then turn the heat on. If the batteries canโ€™t run the furnace for 12 hours in mild temperatures then that is a separate concern that you might look into.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

garyhaupt
Explorer
Explorer
I have no idea of the complexities involved, but...my '99 E 350 Triple E Regal has ducting to provide an engine heater outlet in back..plus a separate fan motor. It might well be worth looking into.


Man..I was sooo wrong. Triple E's had an optional winter package that included a rear mounted heater/fan. Not ducting from front heating system.


Gary Haupt
I have a Blog..about stuff, some of which is RV'ing.

http://mrgwh.blogspot.ca/

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
The colder it is out the more propane you will use. I know this sounds like a no SH!T statement but when moving you are stripping heat off the rig at a very rapid rate and will use more than you think.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
As mentioned, bigger concern is being blown out...but even that isn't a huge issue.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
2112,

I regularly run the furnace while in motion.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

down_home
Explorer II
Explorer II
We run our furnaces on the road whenever it gets cold the dash air doesn't do much by itself.
And if you have enough battery capacity run it at night if not plugged in.
We only have four house batteries and have run the furnaces off them several nights. Check your manual. All that runs off the batteries are the blower motors and thermostat, if that..plus the usual fridge fan even on propane etc.
In 2010 I think, we came back from Disney World and it was not higher than twenty degrees the whole way. we ran the furnaces and like to have roasted as the switch to the rear furnace the contacts stuck, so we seated then froze then sweated and froze. e also had a big hole under the shower ptu there by the dealer. Factory repaired it and both furnaces running it is nice at any temp outside and the water tank get heat too.

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
2112 wrote:
Thanks guys
My AC blower motor bearings failed a few years ago and I attributed it to running the AC while driving.
Probably more attributable to cheap bearings.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
If the bouncing damages the fan bearings they were bad to begin with.. The only "Danger" is flame out (Wind caused by travel blows out the flame) and if that happens the very nice control board will attempt a relight.. 3 times out and it locks out and shuts down.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Your batteries donโ€™t allow even one night using the furnace when you arrive with a hundred percent charge? If so you are not โ€œself contained.โ€
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad