Wax on...Wax off

Gjac wrote:

westend wrote:
An easier method:
Jasco prepaint conditioner applied with garden sprayer to remove grime and oxidation, rinse.
Parfe liquid wax applied with garden sprayer, let dry. No buffing or additional application needed.

Have you tried this liquid TSP to remove oxidation? I used the powdered form which removed some but I still had to use the BKF with a scotch brite pad afterward to remove the rest.

Yes, I do it all the time. One of my income streams is painting. Mostly residential but I've painted everything from cooling towers, tanks, and other exterior surfaces to your average interior office spaces.

On typical painted surfaces, just a couple of sprays with TSP substitute is enough but sometimes a mid-process brushing with a soft bristle brush loosens oxidation and grime. A user must never try to rinse when the surface is dried. If a rinse is needed, reapply the TSP solution and then rinse. These TSP solutions will also work on surface rust but I usually go up the Phosphate chain to Phosphoric acid if I need to etch off a lot of rust. The process is basically the same.

I guess the sun got to mine. It has scaling (I think that is what it is called) and it is a killer to buff. I got an estimate of $450.00 to buff and wax. I did some, using McGuire's 50 boat and rv cleaner and wax, but my age and stamina prevented me from doing much.
Anyone have any other, cheaper ideas for solving my problem?
Thanks

westend wrote:
An easier method:
Jasco prepaint conditioner applied with garden sprayer to remove grime and oxidation, rinse.
Parfe liquid wax applied with garden sprayer, let dry. No buffing or additional application needed.

Have you tried this liquid TSP to remove oxidation? I used the powdered form which removed some but I still had to use the BKF with a scotch brite pad afterward to remove the rest.

An easier method:
Jasco prepaint conditioner applied with garden sprayer to remove grime and oxidation, rinse.
Parfe liquid wax applied with garden sprayer, let dry. No buffing or additional application needed.

In the 70's we build several all composite airframe structures which were flight tested and static tested. After the army contract was over we let the static test sit outside for an environmental test. The sun began to oxidized the epoxy resin after about 5 years. After about 10 years fibers were starting to show through the resin that was oxidized away, this was in Ct not in Az. What started off as a 60% fiber to 40% resin which is typical for aerospace composite laminates only about 20 % of resin was left after 20 years. Several coats of paint eliminated this problem. So wax, Zeps, Polyglow or paint is required to stop oxidation of the gel coat resin. Zeps or Polyglow will adhere better to an oxidized surface that has been properly cleaned than to a newer shinier surface. I could no longer hand polish after mine after about 15 years so I used the Zeps and was very pleased with it(effort vs shine). I applied the zeps 5 years ago and reapplied every other year on the sidewalls the from cap was applied every year because of the bugs that splattered. If I was younger without rotator cuff repairs I would use an electric polisher with a cutting compound then finish it of with a good boat wax. Being over 70 now and 4 Ti moly bolts in each shoulder those days are over for me.

Worth repeating- Before the Zep, everything I tried made no improvement in the dull finish; none. After all that work wiping on and off several coats. We did put in a lot of work cleaning with Awesome and rubbing prior to the Zep. But I don't think we will have to repeat that if we just was and reapply Zep once or twice a year.

JimK-NY wrote:

ReneeG wrote:
JimiK-NY - I'm interesting in switching. How did you strip off the Meguiar's?

It is important to have a good surface prep when using Zep. As I mentioned, I had first applied two coats of Meguires marine wax. I got a gallon of Zep floor stripper, diluted some in a few gallons of water and swabbed it on with a long handled sponge mop. After a rinse, I swabbed the RV with a dilute ammonia solution. That seemed to get rid of all the wax but the camper still had some dirty areas that I had previously waxed over. Next I used the dilute ammonia along with a green kitchen scrub pad and Bar Keepers Friend. Another mild abrasive cleaner such as Bon Ami would also be suitable. I scrubbed the entire camper. That sounds like a lot of work but it was faster than you might think. It took no more work than I would have taken to put a coat of paste wax on the camper.

Applying the Zep is easy. I just wiped it on lightly with a small rag dampened with Zep. You could probably do it with a long handled sponge, but I did it with a ladder and hand wiping it on. It takes at least two coats to get an even attractive finish. I applied 4 coats. You do need to allow each coat to dry for 30 minutes, which is just about the time it took me to work my way around the RV.

As I said, the finish still looks like new after a year. From what I have read on the internet, the wax may start to yellow or flake in a few years. At that point I hope to simply strip and reapply a few coats. I should be able to strip and recoat in 2-3 hours.

There are purists who enjoy a hand rubbed wax finish and do it several times a year. Those people are not likely to want to use Zep. First it is too easy. Second Zep will never give the highest possible shine and depth that can be obtained with rubbed on carnuba wax. Aside from durability and ease of application, Zep does have another advantage over the hand rubbed wax. It is easy to rinse dirt off the RV. I also do not miss those ugly black streaks which were hard to removed.

Thanks for taking the time to share your information.

Wax won't protect it from the sun. Only thing that does is under cover or coatings.
Further up north you are and cooler the the climate the more the angle of the sun the less the damage. Heat comes with the sun and in the Southwesst and Fla etc is worse.
I have no idea as to how much it would cost to prep and paint but perhaps worth investigating the new modern clear coats. My 15 year old pu truck is cared for but sits outside and still glistens. Polishing and waxing helps but it won't stop the sun rays.
Most new coaches and I assumed Towables use these new paints or coatings but guess not.

Hard work does not mean better protection of any kind, let alone UV protection. Waxes do advertise that they contain UV protection. I have never seen any testing or independent evaluation of those claims. Here is one person who believes the claims are useless: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-7m5jnr4gU

My RV is 14 years old. It has spent lots of time in the desert southwest. It has always been stored outdoors exposed to the elements. I don't see any sign of chalking or oxidation. If that is a concern I would recommend using Aerospace 303 and not relying on a wax.

Veebyes wrote:
Buy cheap. Get cheap results. A gel coated fiberglass RV is not a floor. Don't treat it like one. Get the best marine fiberglass wax or sealant such as Meguires Flagship & do the job right. Don't wait till what used to be glossy has gone all milky

^This. Nothing in life is free. You want a shiny RV that is sitting in the sun cooking like an egg, you're going to have to give it very regular maintenance or pay someone to, or it will look like a chalk board before long. Period.
For those that don't understand body work, detailing, oxidation, etc, ignorance is bliss until you wake up one day and you can write your name in the fiberglass and your fingertip is white when you're done.

And even with regular wash/prep/wax, it isn't going to look like that forever. If it did, covered storage would be a lot cheaper and less prevalent.