WDH setup question--variable tongue weight

[RangerEZ]

Hello everyone. I have learned a lot here just from reading, but the time has come to ask a question to be certain.

My equipment:

New truck: 2008 GMC 2500HD Duramax

Trailer: 2008 K-Z Coyote CRC220 Rock Climber

Hitch: Pro Series 49587 WDH with 1200# trunnion bars

I have had the front-platform toy hauler listed in my signature, a K-Z Coyote CRC220 Rock Climber, for a couple years now. I had the hitch all squared away but bought a new truck and I have some hitch set up questions. One thing that makes this interesting is the tongue weight can vary: I haul two Polaris quads on it about 80% of the time. When I do, the tongue weight is right at 1,000 pounds. Without any quads, the tongue weight drops to about 600 pounds. I don't want to have to adjust the hitch to accommodate a change. I've never any had any sway issues when towing without quads, for what that's worth. No sway issues ever, for that matter.

I've read about everything on WD hitch setup here, but do have a couple questions after my initial setup on the new truck.

When I brought the trailer out of storage, I expected I would need to do some hitch adjusting from my old truck, a Chevy 1500HD. But, after loading it up it actually seems pretty close. My basic question is if this looks right. Grabbing the sixth link, my trunnion bars don't really point down, but are pretty parallel. I think I read here that trunnion bars should point slightly down. Is that right?





Measurements of truck from ground, no trailer:

Front fender: 39 1/2"
Rear fender: 41 11/16"

Measurements with just trailer hooked up with no quads on deck:

Front fender: 39" (1/2" lower than without trailer)
Rear fender: 41"

Measurements with trailer and two quads on front deck:

Front fender: 39 3/8" (1/8 lower than no trailer)
Rear fender: 39 3/4"

How does this look? Am I maybe applying too much WD? Maybe drop one link or?

I think the trailer is almost dead level, but need to get to ground that is actually level to be sure--my street has a slight slope to it. I may need to lower hitch assembly one notch and that may change things too.

Please let me know if there's any other info needed to assist in answering. Thanks in advance!

[RangerEZ]

gmw photos wrote:
If it was mine I would take it to the CAT scale and verify the FALR. As to the difference between towing with or without the quads, I am wondering if, for instance you have it right w/quads with six links hanging, then simply dropping to seven links hanging when you have no quads, might be right ?

Being the pedantic type I am, I would verify that too at the scales, but that's probably just me. I enjoy messing with this stuff. Other folks just wanna drop it on the ball and go.

I think this is good advice. I'd planned to get it to the CAT scale soon anyway and this is as good a reason as any. I sort of enjoy messing with this stuff too, but more than anything, I want it as right and safe as it can be.

[gmw_photos]

If it was mine I would take it to the CAT scale and verify the FALR. As to the difference between towing with or without the quads, I am wondering if, for instance you have it right w/quads with six links hanging, then simply dropping to seven links hanging when you have no quads, might be right ?

Being the pedantic type I am, I would verify that too at the scales, but that's probably just me. I enjoy messing with this stuff. Other folks just wanna drop it on the ball and go.

[BarneyS]

Yep, since you mentioned you restored more than the weight taken off the front axle I think going to link #7 would be a good thing as long as the rig still tows well.

Regarding the forum crash, they are working on restoring all the missing posts. They did a database upgrade on Tuesday night which evidently took out a bunch of posts in all the forums. Hopefully they will be able to get them all back.
Barney

[RangerEZ]

Barney, I did see your reply before the forum crashed and it was deleted. Thank you so much. Your input is valued here.

I was wondering whether I applied too much WD because I eliminated all the rise in the front and then-some... But, I think going to a 7th link like you suggested may ease it just enough. I will report back here what I do after getting a chance to take it for a quick tow in the next week or so.

Good eye seeing the highball... I needed that for the other truck and I think it will work fine for my setup here.

To the other person who replied, thanks to you as well.

[RangerEZ]

BarneyS wrote:
Your hitch setup looks pretty good to me. Not all trunnion bars will point down when drawn up by the chains but many do. You have plenty of clearance for the chains to move forward and backwards and also plenty of clearance at the front of the A frame/bars intersection (helped by the high rise ball). As long as you are getting the WD you need and are not getting any sway or loss of control feelings while driving, I would not change anything.

It is also not unusual for the hitch setup to remain the same when changing tow vehicles. As long as the distance from receiver to ground is the same as before, and the loading on the trailer is the same, there should be no reason to change the hitch setup. If the back end of the truck rises too much without the quads and the 6 links, then I would just increase the number of links under tension to 7 or 8 to reduce the WD.
Barney

Thanks Barney for your input. I've read many of your posts and have learned a lot from you.

Good eye on the higher ball... I needed that for the last truck with this hitch head. I suspect the new truck has a slightly higher receiver than the old one, but am checking some of my old notes to be sure. I am contemplating dropping it to a regular ball to lower the front of the trailer an inch or so, but I won't know for sure until I tow it all loaded up to a level area. On my street, the trailer was sitting dead-on level, but the street is a slight slope, so will just need to verify as I have a suspicion it's slightly nose high. I think dropping the hitch head one notch would also work if it turns out I need to.

So, from your answer, I gather than running 7 or 8 links not a problem? Good to know.

Barney, do you have any concern that I have not only eliminated all the rise in the front fender but actually lowered it by 1/8"? That's what I was concerned about when I asked if maybe I'm applying too much WD.

Thanks again to both of you.

[RangerEZ]

campigloo wrote:
The idea of the length of chain is to allow you to turn without crunching the bar into the A-frame, so pointed slightly down is ok. When you lighten the tongue weight, it could be that the only adjustment you would need to make is the selection of which link to use. Just dropping down on or two links can make a significant difference.
I like your trailer. I don't have 4 wheelers, but what a neat place for a deck!

Thanks very much for the input. We love this camper too. Good point on just altering links depending on weights... that did generally work with last truck and I experienced no issues.

To clarify on the trunnion bars, I am asking if I should have any concern since they are running parallel now rather than slightly down.

[BarneyS]

Your hitch setup looks pretty good to me. Not all trunnion bars will point down when drawn up by the chains but many do. You have plenty of clearance for the chains to move forward and backwards and also plenty of clearance at the front of the A frame/bars intersection (helped by the high rise ball). As long as you are getting the WD you need and are not getting any sway or loss of control feelings while driving, I would not change anything.

It is also not unusual for the hitch setup to remain the same when changing tow vehicles. As long as the distance from receiver to ground is the same as before, and the loading on the trailer is the same, there should be no reason to change the hitch setup. If the back end of the truck rises too much without the quads and the 6 links, then I would just increase the number of links under tension to 7 or 8 to reduce the WD.
Barney

[campigloo]

The idea of the length of chain is to allow you to turn without crunching the bar into the A-frame, so pointed slightly down is ok. When you lighten the tongue weight, it could be that the only adjustment you would need to make is the selection of which link to use. Just dropping down on or two links can make a significant difference.
I like your trailer. I don't have 4 wheelers, but what a neat place for a deck!