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Why 30 amp and not 50 amp

Skipg
Explorer
Explorer
Why not build all RV’s with 50 amp service ? With AC, microwaves, electronic water heaters plus numerous other electrical appliances we take with us it seems to make More sense to have 50 amp
43 REPLIES 43

Fisherman
Explorer
Explorer
I think some people should put their house on a flatbed and then go camping. Most likely they would still cry because there's no 100 or 200 amp service.

linnemj
Explorer
Explorer
opnspaces wrote:
It really comes down to manufacturing cost. The designers have a price point to meet and few pennies over thousands of units makes a difference. Once you start letting manufacturing cost creep, where do you stop it?

It's easy for us as the consumer to think "it would have cost only a few pennies or a few dollars more, I would pay that" But then each consumer has their own idea what they are willing to pay extra for. Start adding up all those extra pennies and the cost goes up and profit goes down.


I wonder if the market would pay more for improved axles and suspension, higher quality tires, better furniture and better quality control? Every new buyer doesn’t understand the value of these items but experienced buyer certainly would!
Jim & Nicky
2012 Forest River XLR MBV 29
2010 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel
Motorcycles!

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Skipg wrote:
We have a small tt and when hooked up to power we use electric for water heater, AC, refrigerator, wife uses hair dryer TV, and cook with electric induction cook top. Why use gas when your paying for full hookups. 50 amp instead of 30 would not add that much to the cost. Maybe it could be offered as an option.


Why not use gas for the water heater? We full time and get a couple months out of a 30lb tank running, water heater, stove & oven (shorter when heat is running). If we were just weekending, it would extend out years. I'm not going to worry about saving 30c per trip in propane.

The rest of the stuff is easily accommodated. If it's hot enough to have the air running, we prefer to cook outside and will often run an extension cord to the 15amp outlet on the pedestal to run a crock pot or electric skillet.

Just not a big issue until you get into rigs with multiple air/con units. A 50amp power supply is going to do nothing to the resale of a 20ft TT...if anything it would make me leary of what other weird things have they added.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Skipg wrote:
Why not build all RV’s with 50 amp service ? With AC, microwaves, electronic water heaters plus numerous other electrical appliances we take with us it seems to make More sense to have 50 amp


They do build 'em with 50 amps mine is proof and it's plugged into 50 amps just now at 93 degrees (official outside temp) and no shade you better believe I'm on 50 amps (2 air conditioners both workign overtime)

If you only have one A/C a bit of power management (Do not use A/C. Microwave and Water heater all at once) you should be good on 30.
Some (mostly high end 50 amp rigs) have Intelletec Energy Management Systems (EMS. one of several EMS meanings) that will shut stuff off and swap two air conditioners so one runs then the other runs then back and forth according to the program.

But if you ask. they will make any RV 50 amps.

That said. Where I'm parked just now half of the sites are 50 amps and half are 30 Every other site. So if you are a 50 amp rig and there are not 50 amp sites left. you are going to be a 30 amp rig for the stay.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

I actually prefer 30 amp to 50 amp. It is easy to add auxiliary shore power cords, which I have done for winter use. My peak load, in extreme cold, is 7700 watts.

The rest of the year I can manage on as little as 15 amps. That's great for visiting folks where power is often only 15 amps.

I do limit my consumption to 80% of what ever amperage is available to me.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Dtank
Explorer
Explorer
Lwiddis wrote:
Many don’t need 50 amp service including me.


As already noted - why don't RV mfgrs just install 50amp in ALL RVs?
Easy ans: "Bean counters" - the mfgr & some buyers!

Even if you don't need 50amp - or seldom use 50amp - two good reasons to have it:

Besides being an inexpensive option (if not standard) from the factory....

1. Re-sale value. I wouldn't have an RV without 50 amp. Kinda like ordering a car with roll-up windows to save a buck (yes there is still one brand where it's possible).

2. The 30amp receptacles at many parks have loose connections due to years of use & abuse - and need replacement.

If you have 50amp (and the park does also) you can connect to the 50amp receptacle. (see next) -

BTW - *If* you only have 30amp - be sure to carry a 50 to 30 adapter for that reason!

I have been to parks/campgrounds that charge extra for 50amp, but never had a problem if I said I don't need/want it.

Put me on the 50 yard line (ahhh... 50 amp line) LOL.

🙂

.

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
My A/C needs a 15 amp circuit to start up. I suspect it runs on a fraction of that juice. We use the microwave for storage and it has only been used a handful of times in years of RV use. We have no other electrical "appliances" and rarely even have electrical connections of any type. I try to avoid RV parks.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Many don’t need 50 amp service including me.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Simply order the RV you want WITH 50A.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
It really comes down to manufacturing cost. The designers have a price point to meet and few pennies over thousands of units makes a difference. Once you start letting manufacturing cost creep, where do you stop it?

It's easy for us as the consumer to think "it would have cost only a few pennies or a few dollars more, I would pay that" But then each consumer has their own idea what they are willing to pay extra for. Start adding up all those extra pennies and the cost goes up and profit goes down.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
Agree with valhalla, a 20' TT or smaller generally serves more as sleeping quarters than living quarters. And 50 amp power is not needed. As the RVs get larger with more amenities and needing more power, then yes, 50 amp makes more sense. 50 amp service is not a lot more dollars to install, but at the low end of the price spectrum even a few dollars can make a difference.
And 50 amp RV sites typically cost more than 30 amp only sites.

Skipg
Explorer
Explorer
We have a small tt and when hooked up to power we use electric for water heater, AC, refrigerator, wife uses hair dryer TV, and cook with electric induction cook top. Why use gas when your paying for full hookups. 50 amp instead of 30 would not add that much to the cost. Maybe it could be offered as an option.

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
Staying at a small RV park here in Montana, only has 30 amp service anyway, and my previous fifth wheel only had one air conditioner ,so it was not issue. Although we seldom used it anyway, nor will we use the two we have now. We have never camped in 100 degree weather ,and don't plan on it. If I want to be in 100 degree weather I will go home to Utah :B

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Simple, most smaller RV's don't need it and it adds to the cost. Smaller RV sales tend to be more price driven than bigger RVs that need the 2nd air/con.

Really other than air/con, there aren't generally any long term draws that are needed (water heater can run on gas, microwave is typically just for a few minutes, most other items are low draw and can be on with the air/con)
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV