winterizing issue

edit. double post

kennethwooster wrote:
We winterized a few days ago, and I had antifreeze in hot water heater. It's hard getting to back of hot water heater. I felt their were 3 valves to turn, but could only find 2. Went back and worked at it harder and found the 3rd one. got it turned and then things were fine. Look some more and you will probably find one more

All 3 valves are next to each other. I have winterized this unit before with no issues.

We winterized a few days ago, and I had antifreeze in hot water heater. It's hard getting to back of hot water heater. I felt their were 3 valves to turn, but could only find 2. Went back and worked at it harder and found the 3rd one. got it turned and then things were fine. Look some more and you will probably find one more

Raymon wrote:

Harvard wrote:
Your hot water lines/taps will flow antifreeze via the bypass line/valve. It is not coming from the tank, is it?

The OP stated "So why is my water heater filling up with anti-freeze."
He also said this is the 3rd year he has winterized the unit although this year there are new valves.

Ray

No, I was pumping directly from the jugs.

Just picked up unit yesterday after dropping it off 4 weeks ago. They replaced all the valves. in/out and bypass. The inner workings of the in/out valves wouldn't turn, even though the handle did. they obviously broke. I tried removing the valves myself, loosened the connectors but couldn't break them free. They would just spin in place. Not sure if you need a tool for the PEX for doing that or not. Got fed up with dealing with it and just took it in. I was in no hurry to get it back, since im done with camping anyway

So now, all I need to do is pick up some antifreeze and a "for sale" sign and im good to go. Tired of dealing with this POS.

Thanks to the previous three posts.

Harvard wrote:
Your hot water lines/taps will flow antifreeze via the bypass line/valve. It is not coming from the tank, is it?

The OP stated "So why is my water heater filling up with anti-freeze."
He also said this is the 3rd year he has winterized the unit although this year there are new valves.

Ray

I blow my lines out at 40 psi. Never had an issue. I also run A/F and then blow it out also. Empty the filters, and then some down each drain p trap. Never leave A/F in the lines. I also leave the taps open.
We can get some cold snaps in Canada in Oct. We go south and use bottles of water first 3 days if it is cold then flush and charge the whole system.

therebynightfall wrote:
Can anyone tell me....

Firstly I have isolated the hot water tank.

As I do not have a suction hose fitted for directly adding RV antifreeze from inside the RV at the water pump, I am going to add it thru the fresh water tank fill hole from the outside so....how many gallons will my travel trailer need added into the fresh water tank...before my pump can pull it thru?

This question is probably best answered by persons who prepare their RV for winter the same way as I plan to.

I do not have the facility to blow high pressure air thru the lines.

The RV is stored away from my residence.

Hi, been lurking here and registered just so I can answer your question ;)

I just winterized the plumbing the same way you are intending - drain fresh water tank, fill with some AF, run through all the plumbing.

As for the amount of excess AF you need in the bottom of your FW tank, depends on the shape of the tank and location of the supply line.

In my 5th wheel, the supply line comes off the side of the tank, and leaves about a half inch of water in the bottom when level, which is approximately a gallon or so based on the dimensions of the tank (its a rectangular 30G tank about 20"x30").

This is the first year I've owned this (or any) RV, but I have a pretty good handle on how everything works in it. My big concern with this method of winterizing is that the tank drain is also on the side of tank, thus I can never get the very last gallon or so of water out, meaning that the AF I put in is getting diluted and glycol doesn't work properly if it gets diluted much.

I ended up adding one 2.5G jug of AF to the tank and it was enough to fill the lines in my small 5th wheel (no outdoor shower). That was with HW tank bypassed of course. Just as the pink was coming out the toilet the pump started sucking air. I just hope it didn't get overdiluted, and I hope I'm able to flush most of it out in the spring.

Next year I'm definitely buying the winterization valve kit for the pump.

Can anyone tell me....

Firstly I have isolated the hot water tank.

As I do not have a suction hose fitted for directly adding RV antifreeze from inside the RV at the water pump, I am going to add it thru the fresh water tank fill hole from the outside so....how many gallons will my travel trailer need added into the fresh water tank...before my pump can pull it thru?

This question is probably best answered by persons who prepare their RV for winter the same way as I plan to.

I do not have the facility to blow high pressure air thru the lines.

The RV is stored away from my residence.

Dropped the trailer off today to have them look at it. They said all my valves are in the right position. The PEX style valves in the pic are replacement parts the dealer on. So we'll see what they say. The service advisors wife works for my wife. He usually cuts me pretty good deals and wavs a lot of misc fees other might have to pay for.