Wiring for 2014 CRV

Mine has the socket and bulbs. Works good. No cutting into factory wiring. RV dealer installed mine.
I helped my friend install the diode kit on his vehicle. It works fine too.

I prefer the separate socket and bulb kit. I think it is easier to troubleshoot and repair, and doesn't disturb the factory wiring.

I wired mine into the wiring with diodes. Its a lot more work. If I was to do another vehicle wiring I would go with the additional bulbs and wires separately....Far less issues.

OP,
I answered you on your other posts. Wiring with diodes, whether they're in fancy packages (i.e. The kits from RV stores and Camping World etc,) DOESN'T cause any issues, that is if you have a basic knowledge of 12VDC electricity. Why folks think their car's going to go up in smoke if they go the diode route is beyond me. I've only done to maybe 20 - 30 vehicles, pretty sure none have burnt to the ground.

Everyone's got to work to their limits, (Sorta like a Clint Eastwood "Dirty Harry" statement) so, if you're not comfortable cutting a wire and installing a diode, well, then you better drill some holes and run extra bulbs. Your choice.
Scott

I saw the other post and printed the wiring diagram(thanks) Definitely using the Diode method and NOT going to use the socket & Bulb setup. What I was leaning towards before your reply to my post was the Hopkins kit #56304 (E-trailer had installation video specific to my 14' CRV) and the Roadmaster #88400 Brake-lite relay

Larryr201 wrote:
I saw the other post and printed the wiring diagram(thanks) Definitely using the Diode method and NOT going to use the socket & Bulb setup. What I was leaning towards before your reply to my post was the Hopkins kit #56304 (E-trailer had installation video specific to my 14' CRV) and the Roadmaster #88400 Brake-lite relay

Larry,
I don't fault you for leaning towards using a factory setup harness like the Hopkins. As stated, I did my own diode thing for years and years but, we recently purchased a 2015 Jeep JKUR and I found out there was a Hopkins harness for those. So, I looked into it. Well, I was impressed and, purchased one. It's been in there for almost a year now and, couldn't be happier. But, up until this recent discovery, I set up my own diode system on all my toads, just like what you see in the diagram.
The main difference in the diagram and what I've done for many, is the Tail Light Converter is not used in many of the toads I've done. It's only needed when the toad has AMBER turn signals.
Scott

Scott, thanks again for the advice. Given the fact that this is all new to me I believe that the prewired harness with the diodes would be best for me. There is 1 thing with harness that I'm not sure about. Why does the Harness have 4 pin connection and connecting to RV is 7.
Larry

Larryr201 wrote:
Scott, thanks again for the advice. Given the fact that this is all new to me I believe that the prewired harness with the diodes would be best for me. There is 1 thing with harness that I'm not sure about. Why does the Harness have 4 pin connection and connecting to RV is 7.
Larry

Larry,
The most basic of toad lighting is the same for everyone. And that utilizes only four wires. Typically:

1. Tail/marker (aka "Running lights")
2. Right turn/brake
3. Left turn/brake
4. Ground.

That's the primary four needed for any toad.

The 7 pin setup in about 99.99% of the RVs out there consist of:

1. Tail/marker
2. Right turn/brake
3. Left turn/brake
4. Ground
5. 12VDC + wire for charging toad batteries, trailer batteries, etc.
6. Back-up (for backup lights on trailers)
7 Electric brake wire (typically for magnetic trailer brakes on various trailers

Hope this helps some.
Scott

I installed a very simple system from Demco that involved plugging a module into the Honda CRV wiring harness! Hardest part was getting the interior panel off behind the rear seats!